Oil Cooler placement in C5
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Oil Cooler placement in C5
I just bought a C5 that will be a dedicated track car that I will drive to and from the track for HPDE's. I want to put in a separate oil cooler but do not plan to put in a larger radiator at this time. The oil cooler would sit in front of the radiator. I have been told that this will block air flow to the radiator and that this a bad idea. I have also been told to get the Ron Davis integrated radiator with separate cooler and could do this without a huge additional expense. Thoughts?
#2
Instructor
An oil cooler in front of the radiator will heat the air before it goes thru the radiator. But the oil cooler will not block air flow that much. You can try the oil cooler there and see how it works. And change the location if you need to. One thing to remember is ducting. The more you can force the air thru the cooler and radiator, the more efficient they will be. In other words, seal the cracks around the cooler and radiator to force the air thru them. Hope this helps.
The Outlaw
The Outlaw
#3
Instructor
Thread Starter
So, even though the air coming out of the cooler is hotter than the air temperature it does not reduce the efficiency of the radiator too much? Correct? I assume you are talking about the gaps along the sides of the cooler and radiator? What would you use to plug the gaps and how would they be secured?
#4
Safety Car
You are overthinking this. Get a Doug Rippie stand alone. . . .
http://dougrippie.com/products/stand...il-cooler-kit/
stick it in according to the directions and go racing. The DRM block adapter allows you to retain your current oil temp sensor and wiring without modification to either. Many block adapters require modification of one or both. I've run this system on LS6, LS2, and LS7 engines all without a problem. You'll see about a 40 degree drop in oil temps and a slightly lower water temp.
Combined water/oil radiators like the Ron Davis usually require you to skeletonize the fan shroud to get the full benefit of the radiator. So sealing the edges of everything isn't going to matter much. From what I've seen around the track the aluminum combined radiators do a slightly better job of cooling the water and not quite as good of a job cooling the oil. My preference is a water only aluminum radiator and the stand alone oil cooler - best cooling of both fluids and flexibility in future maintenance work.
Either way you go will work and your car will appreciate it.
http://dougrippie.com/products/stand...il-cooler-kit/
stick it in according to the directions and go racing. The DRM block adapter allows you to retain your current oil temp sensor and wiring without modification to either. Many block adapters require modification of one or both. I've run this system on LS6, LS2, and LS7 engines all without a problem. You'll see about a 40 degree drop in oil temps and a slightly lower water temp.
Combined water/oil radiators like the Ron Davis usually require you to skeletonize the fan shroud to get the full benefit of the radiator. So sealing the edges of everything isn't going to matter much. From what I've seen around the track the aluminum combined radiators do a slightly better job of cooling the water and not quite as good of a job cooling the oil. My preference is a water only aluminum radiator and the stand alone oil cooler - best cooling of both fluids and flexibility in future maintenance work.
Either way you go will work and your car will appreciate it.
#5
Instructor
Thread Starter
You are overthinking this. Get a Doug Rippie stand alone. . . .
http://dougrippie.com/products/stand...il-cooler-kit/
stick it in according to the directions and go racing. The DRM block adapter allows you to retain your current oil temp sensor and wiring without modification to either. Many block adapters require modification of one or both. I've run this system on LS6, LS2, and LS7 engines all without a problem. You'll see about a 40 degree drop in oil temps and a slightly lower water temp.
Combined water/oil radiators like the Ron Davis usually require you to skeletonize the fan shroud to get the full benefit of the radiator. So sealing the edges of everything isn't going to matter much. From what I've seen around the track the aluminum combined radiators do a slightly better job of cooling the water and not quite as good of a job cooling the oil. My preference is a water only aluminum radiator and the stand alone oil cooler - best cooling of both fluids and flexibility in future maintenance work.
Either way you go will work and your car will appreciate it.
http://dougrippie.com/products/stand...il-cooler-kit/
stick it in according to the directions and go racing. The DRM block adapter allows you to retain your current oil temp sensor and wiring without modification to either. Many block adapters require modification of one or both. I've run this system on LS6, LS2, and LS7 engines all without a problem. You'll see about a 40 degree drop in oil temps and a slightly lower water temp.
Combined water/oil radiators like the Ron Davis usually require you to skeletonize the fan shroud to get the full benefit of the radiator. So sealing the edges of everything isn't going to matter much. From what I've seen around the track the aluminum combined radiators do a slightly better job of cooling the water and not quite as good of a job cooling the oil. My preference is a water only aluminum radiator and the stand alone oil cooler - best cooling of both fluids and flexibility in future maintenance work.
Either way you go will work and your car will appreciate it.
#6
Instructor
You can use dense foam of different thickness to seal up any gaps. Also using regular duct tape with or without the foam is a quick way to seal up any gaps or holes. Remember air will always take the path of least resistance, so anything you can do to make the air go thru the cooler and radiator will make them more efficient. Take a look at any good road racing car and you will see what I mean. Hope this helps.
The Outlaw
The Outlaw
#7
Race Director
could make your own, a copy of the DRM might run you 40% of the money
and or a ron davis integrated. you're going to want more water cooling capacity at some point
best advice i have ever been given for street cars turning race is this
spend the money on dry sump, it's cheaper in the long run
and or a ron davis integrated. you're going to want more water cooling capacity at some point
best advice i have ever been given for street cars turning race is this
spend the money on dry sump, it's cheaper in the long run