2000 Steering position sensor..Can I test it?
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
2000 Steering position sensor..Can I test it?
I was wondering if someone could tell me if it's possible to check a steering position sensor that is not on a car and if so how to do it. I purchased one after weeks of looking for my 2000. My sensor is fine but I was nervous about it going out in a few years and not being able to find one. I would like to check it if possible to make sure my back up is good I have an electrical tester but I am limited on my electrical knowledge and I am not sure if it can be tested off of the car...Thanks for any help you can give me.
#2
Safety Car
When this was discussed some time back, I asked someone to send me a dead one so I could take it apart and see what is in there. No takers.
I doubt it's a simple potentiometer, but who knows. If it is, an ohm meter will work. If it isn't might be hard to measure.
ron
I doubt it's a simple potentiometer, but who knows. If it is, an ohm meter will work. If it isn't might be hard to measure.
ron
#3
Ill send you my dead one. I made a couple post about the issues this thing was causing and would like nothing more than to burn this sensor like a marshmallow roasting in a fire BUT if it can be of use to SOMEONE as it sure wasn't to me (haha) id be more than happy to let you have it. Just shoot me a PM and well get it sorted out.
#5
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Location: Horncastle Lincolnshire, England
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The shop manual only shows tests with the SWPS installed using a Tech II. Ignition on, engine off.
These are the values it quotes:
C1287
One of the following conditions exists:
The steering wheel position sensor is synchronized and the steer rate (speed that the steering wheel appears to be turning) is greater than 1100 degrees/second.
The steer rate is less than 80 degrees/second and the difference in the phase angle between Phase A and Phase B is greater than 20 degrees.
The 2 steering sensor signals (Phase A and Phase B) do not agree for 1 second. Under this condition, this DTC will set along with DTC C1281.
C1288
One of the following conditions exists:
Both Phase A and Phase B are greater than 4.9 volts for 1.6 seconds.
Both Phase A and Phase B are less than 0.2 volts for 1.6 seconds.
The difference in the changes in Phase A and Phase B is greater than 35.2 degrees for 9.76 milliseconds.
These are the values it quotes:
C1287
One of the following conditions exists:
The steering wheel position sensor is synchronized and the steer rate (speed that the steering wheel appears to be turning) is greater than 1100 degrees/second.
The steer rate is less than 80 degrees/second and the difference in the phase angle between Phase A and Phase B is greater than 20 degrees.
The 2 steering sensor signals (Phase A and Phase B) do not agree for 1 second. Under this condition, this DTC will set along with DTC C1281.
C1288
One of the following conditions exists:
Both Phase A and Phase B are greater than 4.9 volts for 1.6 seconds.
Both Phase A and Phase B are less than 0.2 volts for 1.6 seconds.
The difference in the changes in Phase A and Phase B is greater than 35.2 degrees for 9.76 milliseconds.
Last edited by DeeGee; 05-10-2012 at 01:47 AM.
#6
Instructor
Thread Starter
Thanks I was afraid of that. I was hoping I could test it with an OHM meeter somehow out of the car without the scan tool....I guess I will just have to hope that it is good and that I never have to use it. It is off of a low millage so I am thinking there is a good chance it is ok I was just hoping for that extra piece of mind knowing for sure...
#7
Tech Contributor
Thanks I was afraid of that. I was hoping I could test it with an OHM meeter somehow out of the car without the scan tool....I guess I will just have to hope that it is good and that I never have to use it. It is off of a low millage so I am thinking there is a good chance it is ok I was just hoping for that extra piece of mind knowing for sure...
#8
Instructor
Thread Starter
Please excuse my ignorance but I don't know what a 5 VDC source is. I have a factory shop Manuel for a 99 but I could only find where it shows how to check it on the car with a scan tool. I really struggle with electrical and reading schematics but If you could tell me what a 5 VDC source is I will give it a shot as long as I can't hurt the thing by testing it....Thanks
#9
Tech Contributor
Please excuse my ignorance but I don't know what a 5 VDC source is. I have a factory shop Manuel for a 99 but I could only find where it shows how to check it on the car with a scan tool. I really struggle with electrical and reading schematics but If you could tell me what a 5 VDC source is I will give it a shot as long as I can't hurt the thing by testing it....Thanks
The SWPS uses a 5 volt source, and outputs a variable voltage. If you want to bench test something, understanding the schematics is a must. Whether you cause any damage as a result of testing....depends on your understanding, having the correct jumpers, pins, and methods to connect, etc.
#10
Safety Car
I have all the required test equipment.
The one Dnealy (Thanks!) is sending me is dead, but I'll see what it does just the same.
Then take it apart and see what is in there and if maybe they can be repaired. I will take it apart carefully.
Does someone have the schematic of this system handy? Otherwise I'll find it in the manual.
BTW, the car batt voltage (12-14 VDC) is reduced to 5VDC in the computer systen. 5VDC is a common logic level voltage.
I also have a dead ABS/AH unit from a 97-00 car on the way to play with as well.
Ron
The one Dnealy (Thanks!) is sending me is dead, but I'll see what it does just the same.
Then take it apart and see what is in there and if maybe they can be repaired. I will take it apart carefully.
Does someone have the schematic of this system handy? Otherwise I'll find it in the manual.
BTW, the car batt voltage (12-14 VDC) is reduced to 5VDC in the computer systen. 5VDC is a common logic level voltage.
I also have a dead ABS/AH unit from a 97-00 car on the way to play with as well.
Ron
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xzo124 (03-22-2022)
#11
Instructor
Thread Starter
I wouldn't even begin to know how to reduce 12 volts to five volts for testing. I think this one is over my head. Electrical testing is my definite weak spot I was hoping it wouldn't be to difficult to do but I will be watching to see what you find out...especially if you find something out about the EBCM....
#12
Tech Contributor
#13
Instructor
Thread Starter
No,don't think you are gonna want to take the time to walk me through it sense I have no idea how to do it. I have a twelve volt car battery and an OHM meeter and I don't think that's going to be all I need to get this done....But I will wear gloves to avoid the paper cuts if you think you can help me give it a shot. I have a Manuel and I can look up the schematics but I didn't want to take up to much of your time...You have helped me in the past so I am familiar with you knowledge of electrical components...BTW that was a good one you made me laugh will be off line for the rest of the day going to work
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xzo124 (03-22-2022)
#16
Drifting
Last time I checked, you could get a voltage regulator from perfectregulators.com
I got one some time ago and use it in series with a 25 ohm pot to run the gauges on my Ford '85 F 250.
About $25 at the time and with several voltages stepped down from 12 volts from one unit.
I got one some time ago and use it in series with a 25 ohm pot to run the gauges on my Ford '85 F 250.
About $25 at the time and with several voltages stepped down from 12 volts from one unit.
#20