What's Inside Your 97-00 ABS Module (Photos)
05-16-2012, 07:01 AM
#41
Team Owner
Just a quick update.
The module is in the hands of the failure analysis folks. We can remove the goo, but not likely w/o possible damage. She is going to try a small section first.
No time table as this isn't work related.
It made for quite a show and tell among the engineers etc. Everyone had to touch the goo and the response was the same from all. Like ooohhh weird!
The thing is, we could have easily built these things. Everything on there is what we do.
Comments ranged from the substrate could be cracked to the connectors to the solenoids might be at fault. I see that in the later units, those connectors were eliminated.
Rather universal comment however was that it likely can't be fixed. Pretty much knew that.
Still fun to investigate though!
Feel free to poke around my company's web site:
http://component-solutions.tek.com/
Ron
The module is in the hands of the failure analysis folks. We can remove the goo, but not likely w/o possible damage. She is going to try a small section first.
No time table as this isn't work related.
It made for quite a show and tell among the engineers etc. Everyone had to touch the goo and the response was the same from all. Like ooohhh weird!
The thing is, we could have easily built these things. Everything on there is what we do.
Comments ranged from the substrate could be cracked to the connectors to the solenoids might be at fault. I see that in the later units, those connectors were eliminated.
Rather universal comment however was that it likely can't be fixed. Pretty much knew that.
Still fun to investigate though!
Feel free to poke around my company's web site:
http://component-solutions.tek.com/
Ron
It is like trying to solve a mystery! Gonna look at your Co's website too!
Thanks,Matt
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05-27-2012, 01:12 PM
#44
abs
i just took my abs sensor off my 97 auto and referencing in your picture, the board that is inside the cover, the silver square that looks like a cpu chip is all corroded in a quarter inch ring around the soldering, probably not a good sign huh?
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mrr23 (10-08-2015)
05-27-2012, 02:54 PM
#45
Safety Car
Thread Starter
On the green board? That part is a diode. Corrosion might not hurt it, but it should be easy to replace.
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mrr23 (10-08-2015)
05-27-2012, 08:26 PM
#46
One big IC in the middle eh? So much for triple modular redundancy in our ABS lol. Even Priuses have TMR in their ABS modules. Neat pics, I'm a Computer engineer myself so this is kinda like **** 
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05-28-2012, 04:40 PM
#47
I sure hope you guys are able to figure something out someday. I have been keeping up with your posts and it is amazing even though I don't know what half of the stuff your talking about is!!! I am just glad someone is at least trying to figure out the 97 to 2000 EBCM it's probably the only shot we have...Thanks for your efforts
05-29-2012, 09:36 AM
#48
Tech Contributor
Ron - you are making me feel like a Jr. High dropout with your knowledge of circuit boards. Lucky for you and me, we can always fall back to our old Novas if the C5 ABS/AH drives them to extinction. My '99 hasn't given me any trouble in the first 250,000 miles, so who knows how long it will last.
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06-01-2012, 11:02 PM
#50
Instructor
Another mechanical engineer I went to school with does ruggedising (if that's a word) of circuit boards and avionics for use in high G force rockets. I'll ask if he knows what the goo is if it's not classified.
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06-02-2012, 08:29 AM
#51
Melting Slicks
Very doubtful that its anything classified. The silicon gel in the module is probably pretty much some standard stuff. We just need to find a silicon digester that can eat away the silicon without harming the PCB. Once the silicon is softened or mostly eaten away, then compressed air or water might be a way to efficiently clean the remaining pieces of silicon. There's a lot of good minds working on this. Shame that it can't be resolved easily like a lot of the other tough C5 problems that have reared up their heads thru the years.
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06-02-2012, 09:26 AM
#52
Team Owner
Here's one for you.
The old one I had originally intended to send to you to dissect, well here is what it does:
It will end up with all the lights on for it and the codes, but "IF" (when it was still on the Vette) I un-hooked the wire harness or pulled the 'MAIN' 40 AMP maxi fuse to it for a while and let it cool down it would work for a good while -
I mean like work normal but either after a (1) Hard Bump, (2) at least 10 miles it would go out or stop working and the lights would come on and no longer operate as intended.
This lead me to believe that something was overheating and somehow tripping internally a THERMAL PROTECTOR or there was or is a crack in the solder somewhere etc. etc.
Because I could again unplug the fuse or harness from the module and let it cool down, hook it back up and works like a charm until the above mentioned happens!
YOUR THOUGHTS on this!
Thanks,Matt
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mrr23 (10-08-2015)
06-02-2012, 10:10 AM
#53
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Ron,
Here's one for you.
The old one I had originally intended to send to you to dissect, well here is what it does:
It will end up with all the lights on for it and the codes, but "IF" (when it was still on the Vette) I un-hooked the wire harness or pulled the 'MAIN' 40 AMP maxi fuse to it for a while and let it cool down it would work for a good while -
I mean like work normal but either after a (1) Hard Bump, (2) at least 10 miles it would go out or stop working and the lights would come on and no longer operate as intended.
This lead me to believe that something was overheating and somehow tripping internally a THERMAL PROTECTOR or there was or is a crack in the solder somewhere etc. etc.
Because I could again unplug the fuse or harness from the module and let it cool down, hook it back up and works like a charm until the above mentioned happens!
YOUR THOUGHTS on this!
Thanks,Matt
Here's one for you.
The old one I had originally intended to send to you to dissect, well here is what it does:
It will end up with all the lights on for it and the codes, but "IF" (when it was still on the Vette) I un-hooked the wire harness or pulled the 'MAIN' 40 AMP maxi fuse to it for a while and let it cool down it would work for a good while -
I mean like work normal but either after a (1) Hard Bump, (2) at least 10 miles it would go out or stop working and the lights would come on and no longer operate as intended.
This lead me to believe that something was overheating and somehow tripping internally a THERMAL PROTECTOR or there was or is a crack in the solder somewhere etc. etc.
Because I could again unplug the fuse or harness from the module and let it cool down, hook it back up and works like a charm until the above mentioned happens!
YOUR THOUGHTS on this!
Thanks,Matt
Also could be a relay or some other component on the green board. That one could be fixable.
Ron
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mrr23 (10-08-2015)
06-02-2012, 10:18 AM
#54
Team Owner
Well, intermittent is a good sign. Would lead me to believe that one of the bond wires (the silver wires under the goo) had broken and looses contact when it get's hot, or the connector inside has an intermittant. Mine is still at work with the gal who hasn't had a chance to play with it yet, so I can't mess with it.
Also could be a relay or some other component on the green board. That one could be fixable.
Ron
Also could be a relay or some other component on the green board. That one could be fixable.
Ron
When needed let me know
Thanks,Matt
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06-03-2012, 09:04 PM
#57
Ron,
Can you show me or tell me how to disconnect those 2 soldered areas so I can safely remove my board? My problem is that two of the pins have disconnected from the little wire going to the board and without getting mine open I can't resolder and fix it thanks
Charlie
Can you show me or tell me how to disconnect those 2 soldered areas so I can safely remove my board? My problem is that two of the pins have disconnected from the little wire going to the board and without getting mine open I can't resolder and fix it thanks
Charlie
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mrr23 (10-08-2015)
06-04-2012, 02:56 AM
#58
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Sorry man, working on the car all day.
You need a 35 watt soldering iron with a small chizzel tip, and a solder sucker. And solder wick. All available at Radio Shack?
I have that stuff cause I'm an electronics geek among other things. You need to melt the solder and suck it out at the same time. Sometimes it helps to actually add more solder befor sucking it out. The solder wick will "wick" out any remaining. Lay it on the board over the hole and heat with the iron. You can see it work.
You need to be careful not to destroy the board.
When you think you have all the solder gone, use a needle nose pliers to wiggle the leads you have unsoldered. They need to be free in the board. Once free, the board should just pull right out.
Good luck!
Ron
You need a 35 watt soldering iron with a small chizzel tip, and a solder sucker. And solder wick. All available at Radio Shack?
I have that stuff cause I'm an electronics geek among other things. You need to melt the solder and suck it out at the same time. Sometimes it helps to actually add more solder befor sucking it out. The solder wick will "wick" out any remaining. Lay it on the board over the hole and heat with the iron. You can see it work.
You need to be careful not to destroy the board.
When you think you have all the solder gone, use a needle nose pliers to wiggle the leads you have unsoldered. They need to be free in the board. Once free, the board should just pull right out.
Good luck!
Ron
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mrr23 (10-08-2015)
06-04-2012, 09:09 AM
#59
Instructor
My friend, the Avionics engineer says it sounds like Conformal, which is required on military circuit boards to prevent high humidity locations from forming condensation across components. He says Conformal is a clear coating sprayed on that is a type of URETHANE that should be dissolvable. Maybe that will help a chemical engineer come up with a solvent.
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