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Just got a P0200 HC/C and P0300C code Engine Misfire..

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Old 01-05-2013, 11:32 AM
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Rherrera
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Default Just got a P0200 HC/C and P0300C code Engine Misfire..

guys..... I took my 2003 out for a quick coffee shop ride this morning and the car was running fine as usual. I got back home it sat for about an hour and then when I went to go start it to go back out ALL HE'LL BROKE LOOSE.... She started sputtering and misfiring.

Please help.....
Old 01-05-2013, 01:51 PM
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Bill Curlee
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P-0200 is the MAIN thing that you need to diagnos!!

Coil or Injector issue. Use a mechanics stephescope or a long length of 5/16" vacuum hose. Put one end on an injector and the other to your ear. See if ALL the injectors are clicking when the engine is running.

There are TWO fuses for the injectors and coils. One for the drivers side injectors and coils and the other for the passengers side injectors and coils . I thing they are # 16 and 22 in the engine fuse box. See if one is blown.

I blew one for the drivers side and the engine still ran. Got me home on FOUR Cylinders! I NEVER thought that an LS engine would drive the car home on FOUR Cylinders!

Anyway,,,,,,,,,,,,, figure out what isnt working! The coils or the injectors:













The schematics are for an 02 and yours may have different fuse numbers.

BC
Old 01-05-2013, 03:59 PM
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Rherrera
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Bill....where do I start. You are da bomb!!!! And so is Corvette Forum. You were right on the money with your diagnosis of my mis firing. It was the 22 number fuse.

Thank you very much and if you are ever in Miami, send me a note. I would like to buy you a drink, beer or whatever. Thanks again.
Old 01-05-2013, 04:42 PM
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DARRYLZO6
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Check the plug wires to make sure they are secure. That happened to me a couple days ago. Scared the **** out of me.
Old 01-05-2013, 05:37 PM
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Bill Curlee
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Don't get over joyed just yet! Ask your self this question! "WHY DID THE FUSE BLOW??????"

The only reason I'm so familiar with the issue is,, I was in Georgia 1000+ miles from home and decided to pull a hole shot to impress someone.

I was about 30 feet into an 80 foot burnout and the engine went FLAT just like you experienced!

All I could think about was what cylinder dropped a valve spring! Flat-bedding it home to CT 1000 miles is going to suck!

I had good oil pressure, normal temps and it still ran so, I limped it back the 1/4 mile from the house I was staying at. Pulling the codes IMMEDIATELY made me feel good. I can easily fix electrical.

So, we changed the fuse and all was good, UNTIL the next time I was aggressive on the throttle. I had a couple extra fuses in the glove box but they were starting to get scarce. So, I purchased few more. I made it all the way home and the next day she Finally gave up the ghost when I was at the auto parts store purchasing more fuses and a new relay (which wasn't the issue) On the way home, it shorted for good and the fuse would blow as soon as you turned on the ignition. I drove it approx 12 miles home on FOUR cylinders. Here is the cause of the failure on my car:





The PINK wire is the 12 VDC wire.. Measuring from the pin in the coil connector to ground and the fuse socket to ground indicated a direct short to the block. Moving the wiring harness behind the engine, opened the the short.

The most common place for you to have an issue is listed below:

Examine the engine wiring harness where it bends around the metal bracket the back of the fuel rail and look for chaffed wires inside the tape wrap:



Strongly recommend having more fuses on hand!!

Bill
Old 01-06-2013, 12:43 AM
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Rherrera
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Unbelievable...... Thanks for the heads up. I will definately check the wiring. I still hope you take me up on the beer or drink (whatever your poison is) offer if your ever down my way. Thanks again.

Ron.
Old 01-06-2013, 08:16 AM
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skydiven4fun
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Great information here.
Old 01-06-2013, 11:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Rherrera
Unbelievable...... Thanks for the heads up. I will definitely check the wiring. I still hope you take me up on the beer or drink (whatever your poison is) offer if your ever down my way. Thanks again.

Ron.
Ron
If I was still Active Duty Navy, that would be an easy deal. Our Subs pull in down there all the time.

I seldom get down that far but,, ya never know. I still work on Submarines and every so often, one of out local units break and pulls into Port Canaveral. We get dispatched to oversee the repairs.

If I ever get a chance to visit SUNNY FLORIDA,, I will look you up.

Bill
Old 01-06-2013, 02:49 PM
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great info thanks
Old 01-12-2013, 05:42 PM
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Hey Bill, Ron here. Got a question. Does putting the vehicle in competitive mode also have any affect on the tranny where maybe it will shift a bit sooner or is it just associated with the traction control?
Old 01-12-2013, 06:15 PM
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Ive been told it does but,,,,,, Im going to ask someone who really knows and either pass on the knowledge or have him reply.

Bill
Old 01-12-2013, 06:19 PM
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Thanks Bill
Old 01-13-2013, 09:49 PM
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Thank you for this thread!
Car started but was running like crap....like plug wires were disconnected.
Threw a P0200.......

Checked the fuse box.....bad #22 fuse.

Replaced and now it back to normal.

Very cool, easy peasy fix.

Thx
Old 01-14-2013, 11:20 PM
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0Chuck CoW
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Default Thanks Bill.

Originally Posted by Rherrera
Hey Bill, Ron here. Got a question. Does putting the vehicle in competitive mode also have any affect on the tranny where maybe it will shift a bit sooner or is it just associated with the traction control?

Thanks Bill.....



Ron.... Competitive mode is a Traction Control, Vehicle Stability, Active handling thing....

It all happens in the ABS MODULE. When TC/OFF or COMP mode is activated the only thing that happens

in the ECM on 03 cars is that the throttle response changes....

As I recall, C5 STICK cars there is no change in throttle....but in Auto cars the throttle profile changes.

In C6 Corvettes, pressing the traction control button on an automatic DOES NOT CHANGE THROTTLE....

But on Sticks and ZO6s it's less responsive in TC OFF/COMP modes.

That's pretty much the general rule....

By the way, FUSES don't usually blow for NO REASON.... Start looking and wiggling wires in hopes

that you can make it happen again.....

Before you get stuck someplace inconvenient.

Chuck CoW
Old 01-15-2013, 08:43 AM
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Good detective work, Bill. Whenever I see threads like this, I just assume I'm going to have the same problem down the road sometime.

It's amazing how much havoc those 90° edges wreak upon wiring. I'd bet if you just knocked down the edge with a sanding drum on a Dremel it'd never happen again (or in the first place).

Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
Measuring from the pin in the coil connector to ground and the fuse socket to ground indicated a direct short to the block.
Can you elaborate a little on this statement, please? Were you just doing continuity checks from the pins to ground? Were you checking at an actual ground (i.e. G###) or straight to the block?
Old 01-15-2013, 01:22 PM
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The bracket for the A.I.R. Check valve behind the manifold broke and the sharp edge on the broken bracket cut the wire. You know it was just ONE wire and you just know Murphy said, "Hey,,,,,,,,, were going to screw with Bill today and cause some MAJOR engine havoc!

When the wire went to full engine ground, (blew the fuse each time the ignition was turned on) I pulled the fuse and measured from the fuse holder "PINK WIRE SIDE" to engine ground.

Did it just to verify I was on the correct track. Then I measured from ANY injector on the drivers bank (pink wire side) to engine ground. Same results (20 ohms). I left the OHM Meter connected and when I physically moved the harness behind the engine, the SHORT on either end of the wire went OPEN.

So,, I just had to untape the harness and sort thru all the wires and find the damaged PINK power wire. The entire troubleshooting process only took ME, approx 30 minutes. Untaping the harness, repairing the wire, retaping the harness, removing that DAMN Check valve and chucking it as far into the woods as I could throw it took the better part of a Saturday afternoon!

The same issues can happen if the part of the harness at the rear of the manifold rubs on the black metal bracket.

Bill

Last edited by Bill Curlee; 01-15-2013 at 01:25 PM.
Old 01-15-2013, 02:48 PM
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Rherrera
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Chuck.... This is Ron H. here. When you say competitive mode affects the throttle. How do you mean? In a good way? Like more responsive... Please elaborate because as far as throttle response goes in competitive mode. I see (or I should say) feel no difference.
Old 01-15-2013, 04:29 PM
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Default Some vehicles....

Originally Posted by Rherrera
Chuck.... This is Ron H. here. When you say competitive mode affects the throttle. How do you mean? In a good way? Like more responsive... Please elaborate because as far as throttle response goes in competitive mode. I see (or I should say) feel no difference.


In some vehicles it's the same as TC/ON.... if there is a difference Traction OFF/COMP is always LESS responsive.

Chuck CoW
Old 01-21-2013, 02:00 PM
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Rherrera
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Hey Bill... Ron H here again. Have you ever heard of the MPH illuminated light that is inset in the MPH gauge dimming and brightening at will.

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