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Z06 Roof removal

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Old 02-19-2013, 06:34 PM
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zeke2u
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Default Z06 Roof removal

I'm looking for the factory procedures for roof repair/removal. I just received the 2004 Service Manual and the fixed roof is not covered - only the convertible and hatch. Anyone with experience or knowledge of where the write-ups can be found would be greatly appeciated....
Old 02-19-2013, 06:54 PM
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Look in the 1999 Service manual under ROOF,, Repair Instructions, Hard Top Replacement. Its in there.

I was amazed that they have you cut the old roof into THREE parts for removal !!!


Hard Top Replacement
Removal Procedure
Remove the windshield reveal molding. Set the molding aside.
Remove the rear window. Refer to Rear Window Replacement in Stationary Windows.
Remove the 2 sun visors. Refer to Sunshade Replacement in Interior Trim.



Remove the windshield side garnish moldings and retainers.
Remove 2 bolts and the seat belt guides from the roof bow.
Remove 3 headliner fasteners.
Remove the headliner.
Remove the roof weatherstrips and moldings.
Remove the side reveal molding.



Protect the interior of the vehicle with plastic sheeting.
Make a rough cut the width of the roof, 100 mm (4 in) from the windshield front edge (1) in order to gain access to the bonded areas. Refer to Roof Description .
Make a rough cut the width of the roof, 150 mm (6 in) forward of the rear glass (2) in order to gain access to the bonded areas. Do NOT cut into the roof bow (3).



Mark the location of 2 brackets (1) on the front edge of the roof bow, Remove the brackets.



Mark the location of 3 brackets (1) at the front edge of the surround panel (3). Remove the brackets.
Mark the location of 2 brackets on the opposite sides of the roof bow. Remove the brackets.
Use a heat gun to debond the roof panel along all remaining seams. If the outer panel is separating from the inner roof panel, apply more heat.
Use a pneumatic knife to cut the front edge of the roof from the windshield header and the rear edge of the roof at the surround panel.

Important
Use caution when prying off the panel to prevent the inner brace from separating.


Pry up the roof panel along the roof bow, along the windshield and the front edge of the deck lid.
Note the location of butyl and clean excess urethane from all panels to prepare for installation.
Installation Procedure
Prepare the mating surfaces.



Remove the tape and all tape residue from the service part along all bonded surfaces.
Install 3 rear brackets along the rear edge of the roof bow.
Prepare the bonding surfaces using a scuff pad. Clean the bond area with a lintfree rag, using a water-based cleaner.

Important
Prior to refinishing, refer to GM 4901MD-99 Refinish Manual for recommended products. Do NOT combine paint systems. Refer to the paint manufacturer's recommendations.


Prime bare metal areas and the SMC bond areas using the urethane adhesive kit, GM P/N #12346284.
Prime the small bare metal areas along the windshield header and the roof bow with the pinch-weld flange primer.
For large bare metal areas, larger than 4x4 in, use a 2-part catalyzed primer.




Apply a butyl sealer (1) to the service part as indicated.
Apply urethane (2) to the vehicle and in recommended locations along the service part.




Important
The quarter panels must be in the body position before you insert the roof panel. Place the deck lid in the open position.


With the aid of a helper, install the service part roof.

Notice
Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.


From the outside of the vehicle, push down on the top of the roof to create a flush fit with the surrounding panels. From the inside of the vehicle, tighten the fasteners.
Reinstall the hardware along the windows and along the windshield side pillar.
Install the side reveal molding.
Install new roof weatherstrip side retainers and replace the moldings.
Install the headliner through the rear window opening. Fasten the headliner in place.
Install 3 headliner fasteners.
Install the seat belt upper guides. Refer to Seat Belt Retractor Replacement - Left Front and to Seat Belt Retractor Replacement - Right Front in Seat Belts.



Install the windshield side garnish moldings and retainers.
Install 2 sun visors. Refer to Sunshade Replacement in Interior Trim.
Install the rear window. Refer to Rear Window Replacement in Stationary Windows.
Install the window reveal molding.
Test the roof panel for water leaks.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Document ID# 817141
1999 Chevrolet/Geo Corvette
Old 02-19-2013, 08:23 PM
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Thank you very much Bill - I'm not sure about repairing the roof in sections. I can buy a complete roof from a salvage yard. I was more concerned with dealing with the adhesive on the windshield frame, halo, and the rear tub. I'll probably pull the seats out - it only takes a few minutes for each seat. Anyway, thanks again - I just paid $160 for the 2004 Service Manual and I would've thought that this procedure would be included, not limited to the 1999 manual....go figure!
Old 02-19-2013, 08:29 PM
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What in the hell happened that you gotta remove the damn roof?
Old 02-19-2013, 08:30 PM
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Bill - Is the Rear window replacement in Stationary Windows also in the '99 manual? If it's too much effort, no problem - I'll stop at the local Chevy dealer on the way to work tomorrow and get a photocopy.
Old 02-19-2013, 08:37 PM
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DooDooBear1999 - A picture is worth a 1,000 words...

http://s1092.beta.photobucket.com/us...tml?sort=3&o=1

besides, I'm not sure how it happened. The car was "totaled" because of the windshield and roof. I have to call the woman who owned it, to find out exactly what happened. Obviously, something fell on it. The insurance appraisal said "non-collision total" GM does not sell the roof anymore, so the only source is the salvage yards. It looks like one of those parts that requires a very knowledgeable dismantler. I think there's a Corvette specialist in PA that I'll talk to, first....
Old 02-19-2013, 08:48 PM
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WKMCD
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The roof is bonded to the windshield frame. What are you going to do about the frame?
Old 02-19-2013, 08:53 PM
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I'm aware the roof is adhered/bonded to the frame. The frame doesn't appear to be damaged. The impact was centered about a foot below the frame, in the windshield. My best guess is that it was a tree limb.
Old 02-19-2013, 08:56 PM
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I just picked 99 cause of the FRC It could be in some of the other year manuals.

Well,,,,,,,,, I just checked,,, all of the manuals 1999-2003 have the procedure/

Go to the local paint / body shop supply store. They will have all the proper adhesives and know what is suppose to be used where.

Be real particular with sealing the rear tub area and the junction where the ROOF, windshield header and roof gutter meet. That area will leak if not sealed correctly.
Old 02-19-2013, 08:56 PM
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Originally Posted by zeke2u
DooDooBear1999 - A picture is worth a 1,000 words...

http://s1092.beta.photobucket.com/us...tml?sort=3&o=1

besides, I'm not sure how it happened. The car was "totaled" because of the windshield and roof. I have to call the woman who owned it, to find out exactly what happened. Obviously, something fell on it. The insurance appraisal said "non-collision total" GM does not sell the roof anymore, so the only source is the salvage yards. It looks like one of those parts that requires a very knowledgeable dismantler. I think there's a Corvette specialist in PA that I'll talk to, first....



.................................. holy ****.
Old 02-19-2013, 09:40 PM
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WOW!! I would be very concerned about the windshield header being damaged!!!!

Rear window removal is NO PROBLEM!!!

Rear Window Replacement
Removal Procedure
Tools Required
J 24402-A Glass Sealant Remover (Cold Knife), or equivalent
J 39032 Stationary Glass Removal Kit, or equivalent
GM P/N 12346392 Urethane Adhesive Kit, or equivalent
Isopropyl alcohol or equivalent
Cartridge-type caulking gun
Commercial-type utility knife
Razor blade scraper
Rubber suction cups

Notice
DO NOT close the lift window panel with the struts attached unless the window is installed and the window adhesive fully cured. The window adds strength and rigidity to the lift window panel. Attempting to close the lift window panel, with the struts installed, without a window or with the window adhesive not fully cured, could cause the panel to crack.






Install a protective cover inside the vehicle.
Remove the lower garnish molding and the rear compartment front side trim panel for access to the inside of the window. Refer to Trim Panel Replacement - Rear Compartment Front Side .



Remove the rear window defogger connectors from the window.

Caution
When working with any type of glass or sheet metal with exposed or rough edges, wear approved safety glasses and gloves in order to reduce the chance of personal injury.







Important
Keep the cutting edge of the tool against the rear window when removing the rear window. This will allow the urethane adhesive to be separated from the rear window. Leave a base of urethane on the pinchweld flange. The only suitable lubrication is clear water.


Use the J 24402-A or J 39032 in order to cut the rear window from the pinchweld flange. Do this from inside the vehicle in order to protect the outer paint surface.



With the aid of an assistant, use the suction cups in order to lift the rear window from the opening.
Inspect the following components for the causes of a broken rear window:
The flange of the rear window opening
The rear window reveal molding
The rear window
Inspect for any of the following problems in order to help prevent future breakage of the rear window:
High weld
Solder spots
Hardened spot weld sealer
Any other obstruction or irregularity in the pinchweld flange.

Important
If corrosion of the pinchweld flange is present, or if sheet metal repairs or replacements are necessary, refinish the pinchweld flange in order to present a clean primer only surface. If paint repairs are required, mask the flange bonding area prior to the application of the color coat in order to provide a clean primer only surface. Materials such as BASF DE17®, DuPont 2610®, Sherwin-Williams PSE 4600 and NP 70 and Martin-Semour 5120 and 5130 products are approved for this application.


After repairing the opening as indicated, perform the following steps:
Inspect the condition of the rear window opening and the urethane adhesive bead in order to determine which installation method you will use. Refer to Short Method Description or Extended Method Description for the guidelines.
Remove all traces of broken glass from the vehicle.
Clean around the edge of the inside surface of the rear window with a 50/50 mixture of isopropyl alcohol and water by volume on a dampened lint free cloth.
Installation Procedure

Caution
When working with any type of glass or sheet metal with exposed or rough edges, wear approved safety glasses and gloves in order to reduce the chance of personal injury.



Notice
Until the new urethane has cured, air pressure from a closing door may cause the stationary window to move causing a leak. To prevent this, lower a window before closing the door.






Starting with the lower molded corners of the reveal molding, install the reveal molding to the window.
After repairing the opening as indicated, perform the following:
Shake the pinchweld primer (black #3) for at least one minute.



Use a new dauber to apply the pinchweld primer (black #3) to the surface of the bonding area.
Allow the primer to dry for approximately 10 minutes. Ensure that all nicks and scratches are covered.



With the aid of an assistant, dry fit the rear window in the opening in order to determine the correct way to position the rear window in the opening.
Use masking tape in order to mark the location of the rear window in the opening.
Slit the masking tape at the top edge of the rear window.



With the aid of an assistant and the rubber suction cups, remove the rear window.
Place the rear window inside up on a clean, protected surface.
If the original rear window is being reused, remove all but approximately 2 mm (3/64 in) of the existing urethane adhesive from the rear window surface, using a utility knife or razor blade scraper.
Clean around the edge of the inside surface of the rear window with a 50/50 mixture of isopropyl alcohol and water by volume on a dampened lint free cloth.

Important
Do not remove all traces of the adhesive. Remove all mounds or loose pieces of urethane adhesive .


If the extended method is being used remove all but approximately 2 mm (3/64 in) of the existing bead of adhesive from the pinchweld flange.
Shake the pinchweld primer (black #3) for at least one minute.
Use a new dauber to apply the primer to the surface of the pinchweld flange.
Allow the pinchweld primer to dry for approximately 10 minutes.
If the extended method is being performed, do the following:




Important
Use care when applying the prep (clear #1) to rear window. This primer dries almost instantly and may stain the viewing area of the rear window if not applied evenly.


If installing a new non encapsulated window:
Use a new dauber, to apply the rear window prep (clear #3) to an area approximately 10 to 16 mm (3/8 to 5/8 in) around the entire perimeter of the rear glass inner surface.
Apply the rear window prep (clear #1) to the same area of the glass.
Wipe the primed window area immediately with a lint-free cloth.
Shake the glass primer (black #2) for at least one minute.
If installing a new encapsulated window:
Use a new dauber, to apply the rear window prep (clear #3) to an area approximately 10 to 16 mm (3/8 to 5/8 in) around the entire perimeter of the rear glass inner surface. The glass must be installed within 8 hours after applying the primer to the glass.
The primed surface of the glass must be kept clean.
Allow the glass primer to dry for approximately 10 minutes.
Shake the rear window primer (black #2) for at least one minute.



Use a new dauber, in order to apply the rear window primer (black #2) to the areas of the rear window (1) to which prep (clear #1) was applied.
Allow the primer to dry for approximately 10 minutes.



If using the short method, cut the tip of the applicator nozzle in order to provide a bead of 6.0 mm 1/4 in).
If using the extended method, cut the applicator nozzle in order to provide a bead 10.5 mm (0.14 in.) wide and 10.5 mm (0.14 in.) high.



Use a cartridge-type caulking gun, apply a smooth continuous bead of new urethane adhesive around the edge of the rear window where the primer was applied.
When using the short method, apply the urethane adhesive to the existing bead of urethane adhesive on the body.



When using the extended method, use the edge of the rear window or the inside edge of the reveal molding as a guide for the nozzle in order to apply the urethane adhesive to the inner surface of the rear window.



With the aid of an assistant, use the suction cups in order to install the rear window into the opening.
Align the tape on the rear window and on the body.
Press the rear window firmly into place in order to wet-out and seat the urethane adhesive.
Tape the rear window in places to the body in order to minimize movement until the urethane adhesive cures.
Clean any excess urethane adhesive from the body.




Important
Do not direct a hard stream of high pressure water at the fresh urethane adhesive.


Use a soft spray of warm water in order to immediately water test the rear window.
Inspect the rear window for leaks.
If any leaks are found, use a plastic paddle in order to apply extra urethane at the leak point.
Retest the rear window for leaks.
The following conditions must be maintained to properly cure the urethane.
Allow the vehicle to remain at room temperature (21°C or 70°F) at 30 percent relative humidity.
Allow a minimum of 6 hours for the moisture curing urethane adhesive.
Allow a minimum of 1 hour to 1 1/2 hours for the chemical curing urethane adhesive.
Partially lower a door window in order to prevent pressure buildups when closing doors before the urethane adhesive cures.
Do not drive the vehicle until the urethane adhesive is fully cured. Refer to the above curing times.
Do not use compressed air in order to dry the urethane adhesive.
Install the rear compartment front side trim panel. Refer to Trim Panel Replacement - Rear Compartment Front Side .
Connect the rear window defogger connections.
Remove the interior protective cover.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Document ID# 402273
1999 Chevrolet/Geo Corvette

Last edited by Bill Curlee; 02-19-2013 at 09:42 PM.
Old 02-19-2013, 09:42 PM
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Adhesive Service Kit Description
The GM of Canada Adhesive Caulking Kit, P/N 10952983, contains the following items:

• Four different primers

• A tube of urethane adhesive with a nozzle

• Four daubers

• Instructions with warnings

Use the urethane adhesive caulking kit for replacement of any urethane adhesive-installed window using the full cut method.

In the United States or Canada, you may use any of the following equivalent urethane adhesive systems which meet GM Specification GM 3651G:

• Dow Automotive - Essex 400HV. One part and requires associated primers.

• Dow Automotive - Essex U216. Two part and requires associated primers. Call Dow Automotive at 1-800-453-3779 for more information.

• 3M™ "Fast Cure" Auto Glass Urethane. One part and requires associated primers. Call 3M™ at 1-877-666-2277 for more information.

Use these materials based on specific manufacturer. Do NOT intermix primers or adhesives from one manufacturer to another.

Always follow the system manufacturer's instructions for application, handling, and curing.


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Document ID# 216083
1999 Chevrolet/Geo Corvette
Old 02-19-2013, 09:52 PM
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Extended Method Description
Use the extended method when the original urethane adhesive bead left on the window opening pinchweld flange (after window removal) cannot serve as a base for the new window, or in any case where the use of the short method is in doubt.

This method includes the following cases:

The replacement of a majority of the urethane adhesive bead, where a thin film of the original bead remains
Applying pinchweld primer to any exposed painted areas on the pinchweld flange
No mounds or loose pieces of urethane adhesive should remain on the pinchweld flange. Do not remove all traces of urethane adhesive.


Important
If corrosion of the pinchweld flange is present, or if sheet metal repairs or replacements are required, refinish the pinchweld flange in order to present a clean, primer-only surface.
If paint repairs are required, mask the flange bonding area (prior to applying the color coat) in order to provide a clean, primer-only surface.
Appropriate materials for these primer applications are typically 2 component catalyzed products. Use materials such as BASF DE17®, DuPont 2610®, Sherwin-Williams PSE 4600 and NP70® and Martin-Semour 5120 and 5130®. Follow the manufacturer's directions for the mix, the application, and the drying times.
After repairing the opening as indicated, shake the pinchweld primer (black #3) well. Using a new dauber, apply the primer to the primed surface of the flange in the bonding area. Allow the primer to dry for 10 minutes.
Use the extended method of replacement and the appropriate urethane bead size when installing the window.


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Document ID# 231615
1999 Chevrolet/Geo Corvette


Short Method Description
Use the short method where the original urethane adhesive bead left on the window opening pinchweld flange (after window removal) can serve as a base for the new window. This method uses a small bead of urethane adhesive in order to adhere the window in the opening to the original urethane adhesive bead.

Use the short method when the original bead of urethane adhesive meets 1 of the following conditions:

Intact, without portions of the bead missing
Solidly adhered to the pinchweld flange with no corrosion present on the flange
Uniform in shape - Smooth, without multiple cuts or loose material present
Also use the short method under the following conditions:

When repainting of the opening or collision repair/sheet metal replacement is not required.
When urethane adhesive deterioration is not evident (no powdery residue).

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Document ID# 231612
1999 Chevrolet/Geo Corvette
Old 02-19-2013, 10:02 PM
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Just in case~~~

Windshield Frame Replacement
Removal Procedure
Tools Required
J 42058 Frame Adapter Clamp


Notice
When replacing panels that involve servicing stationary glass, refer to GM Service Bulletin no. 43-9-48 before performing any priming or refinishing.


Remove the following panels and components to gain access to the windshield assembly:
Front fenders
Front wheelhouses
Windshield
Instrument panel assembly
Visually inspect for damage to the frame rails or wheelhouse mounting areas.
Restore as much of the damage as possible to specifications using three-dimensional measuring procedures. Use J 42058 if pulling and straightening of the vehicle are required.
Remove and relocate wiring as necessary to avoid damage.

Important
Use care not to damage the plenums. If they are damaged during the removal process, they should be replaced.






Drill out the close-end rivets securing the upper plenum to the windshield frame.
Apply heat to the upper plenum side of the bond area.
Pry up on the panel to remove it.
Apply heat and pry as necessary to break the windshield frame loose from the lower plenum.
From inside the vehicle, remove all hardware attaching the instrument panel supports to the windshield frame assembly.
Remove bolts attaching cross-car brace.
Heat and break loose adhesive bonds.
Remove brace from vehicle.



Remove bolts attaching windshield frame to the front hinge pillars.
Remove damaged windshield frame.
Installation Procedure
Remove all remaining adhesive.
Scuff all bonding surfaces to ensure proper adhesion.
Clean and prepare all bonding surfaces as necessary.
Prime all bare metal surfaces with PPGs DP90, or an equivalent epoxy anti-corrosion primer. Do not top-coat any bonding surface.



Apply adhesive to the bonding surfaces of the new windshield frame and install.

Important
Use US Chemical and Plastics 82007B System 2000 Structural Adhesive, a PLIOGRIP® Adhesive manufactured by Ashland Chemical Company, or equivalent. Note the 30 minute working time and 2½ to 3 hour cure time.


Save any and all brackets, mounting studs, and accessories for transfer to the new rear compartment panel.
Apply adhesive to attach lower plenum to windshield frame, drill holes and use close-end rivets (GM P/N 9418420, or equivalent) to hold plenum secure while adhesive cures.
Apply adhesive to the area that the cross-car brace bonds to the center tunnel assembly, and install brace and bolt into place.
Attach all instrument panel supports to the windshield frame assembly service part.



Apply adhesive to the upper plenum and install using close-end rivets in factory locations, to hold in place while adhesive cures.
Prime bare metal areas with an approved anti-corrosion primer per GM P/N 4901M-D refinish manual.

Important
Do not top coat any bonding surfaces.


Install all related panels and components.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Document ID# 222665
1999 Chevrolet/Geo Corvette
Old 02-19-2013, 11:01 PM
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SteveDoten
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I've got a complete Z06 roof in stock

Also have the front glass if needed

Located in CT

I can go over the roof removal as part of the deal.
Old 02-19-2013, 11:45 PM
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Bill Curlee
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Originally Posted by SteveDotenMotorsports
I've got a complete Z06 roof in stock

Also have the front glass if needed

Located in CT

I can go over the roof removal as part of the deal.
Steve

WOW!! Yor are the MAN!
Old 02-19-2013, 11:58 PM
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Bill - Thanks again. The info' for the rear window replacement...I think that's the procedure for the hatchback - where it says "DO NOT close the lift window panel with the struts attached unless the window is installed and the window adhesive fully cured. The window adds strength and rigidity to the lift window panel. Attempting to close the lift window panel, with the struts installed, without a window or with the window adhesive not fully cured, could cause the panel to crack." - I think that's referring to the hatchback, not the FRC. And the 2004 manual does give the prep' procedure for fixed place glass. which is the same for the windshield.

I do have concerns about the windshield frame, but until I get the windshield removed and the headliner out it's difficult to get precise measurements. I know the frame is aluminum and the top part of the frame is kinda "I"-beam shaped. It must be pretty rigid. And like I mentioned before, the impact was centered below the frame (you can see concentric circles that radially extend from the impact point in the glass). Here's another perspective from the front of the car.....

http://s1092.beta.photobucket.com/us...tml?sort=3&o=2

When I sight across the top of the frame, from side to side, it appears pretty level with no dip. The reveal strip at the top of the windshield is distorted, but that's because the windshield was pulled downward upon impact. Once I get the windshield and headliner removed, I should be able to get better measurements and and idea of where things stand.

And, I do have a .jpg file for the '97-'98 C5 Body-Panels, where it gives the same directions for replacing the windshield frame, along with some drawings. Anyway, I just want to thank you again, it must have taken a bit of time to type that stuff out.

Steve - I'm interested in that roof, if it's in decent condition. I'd rather go with a new windshield, though. Anyway, let me know what you have to get for it.

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Old 02-20-2013, 12:19 AM
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Bill Curlee
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Believe it or not,,, that procedure shows the ZO6 / FRC roof and window.

Well,, If I were you,, I would see if Steve has a window frame/window also..
Old 02-20-2013, 06:12 AM
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I believe it, Bill. My 2004 manual has a lot of anomalies and redundancies, it seems. I wonder if all the 2004 manuals are missing the fixed roof repair procedures, or is it just mine?
Old 02-20-2013, 09:39 AM
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Why not make it into a Z06 Targa ?





Quick Reply: Z06 Roof removal



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