When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
From: Tampa Bay, Go BUCS!!!Go Rays!!!Go Lightning!!!
St. Jude Donor '12-'13-'14
Tunnel plate question
I replaced the tunnel plate on my C6 GS. I have the OEM one in the garage now. Can anyone tell me definitively if the C6 plate will fit a C5?
I have a C5 as well and if they are a direct fit I may just jack it up and install it. It isn't GREAT but it looks better than the C5 OEM one (which amounts to nothing more than a dust cover).
The C5 plate is not just a dust cover but a well engineered piece with very special balsa wood sandwiched in the middle. You can read about their discussions of the added cost and design functions in "All Corvettes are Red". Great book if you have never read it.
The C5 plate is not just a dust cover but a well engineered piece with very special balsa wood sandwiched in the middle. You can read about their discussions of the added cost and design functions in "All Corvettes are Red". Great book if you have never read it.
Huh????????? My tunnel plate was tin, I'll bet your thinking about the floor.
The C6 plate is a good improvement over the stock C5 but I'll bet you could double up and use both the C5 & C6 plate for even better results.
From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Originally Posted by corvettebob1
Huh????????? My tunnel plate was tin, I'll bet your thinking about the floor.
The C6 plate is a good improvement over the stock C5 but I'll bet you could double up and use both the C5 & C6 plate for even better results.
The floorboards use the balsa-wood sammich, not the tunnel plate.
From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Originally Posted by chaase
Get some insulating material and put it between the two plates to help with the console heat.
That thought occurred to me as well so I think the choice of insulating material needs to be carefully considered in light of both temperature and moisture resistance. Anything chosen will see water, and if it's a porous material, will act like a sponge, trapping water between the two steel layers. Even exhaust heat may or may not "burn off" absorbed moisture (think driving short trips).
For heat rejection, I would recommend just going with Thermal Abs from Elite Engineering on the under side, regardless of whether it's being used on a stock single plate or "doubled" plate. That thing really works well.
When I did my exhaust, I removed the plate and used some of the bubble wrap silver stuff from Home Depot. I put some up over the torque tube and on top of the plate. Also made a second plate out of some metal I had laying around. I think I put a piece between the plates also. It made a world of difference on heat coming into the cabin. May have helped a little with the noise.
Chris