When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
You should change your fan settings. I have a Dewitts and NEVER see over 205 degrees.....even in 100+degree weather. My temps around town are in the 190 range...and 175'ish on the freeway.
I'm supercharged with a 3200 stall and a stock radiator with the trans cooler going thru the radiator. At 100 degree days, I rarely see 195. I would have thought your temps would be lower. Reset those fans! Rod PS, I am running a external trans cooler with fan.
Quality product indeed. Question though: So what is the sweet spot, for lack of a better term, for the LS1 engine in terms of engine temperature? Understanding obviously that excessive heat is bad, I would venture to say that there is a point also of being to cool as well. In their testing GM I am sure had a range in mind that the cooling system was optimized to achieve and provide optimum performance also. While mods may alter the baseline of the LS1 I am just wondering how that affects the optimum operating temperature goal.
ET has posted previously his knowledge of optimal temps. I believe it was 205-210 degrees but not 100% positive.
Since my temps dropped from 247 to 205 now I am very pleased.
My fans wont ever kick on unless I get a hot day and hit 226.
I may purchase a CoolIt switch to start the fans when needed. I dont want to change my tune at this time.
Your temps are now ideal, glad you were happy with the product. Many people seem to get worried at seeing 200+ but that's where the engine is designed to be, so by forcing it to run at 175 you're making it run at a less than ideal temp.
From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Originally Posted by TwinTurboZ51
...........
Nice! Dewitts makes an excellent product.
Btw, I noticed your stock fan shroud is different than mine, so I did a little sleuthing. It turns out your '97 is the only year with that particular design. It has separate fan mounting brackets for each of the two fans and the main shroud also has two horizontal "slots" (or openings) where is looks like flaps (missing in your picture?) would open up at speed. The fan motors and blades themselves are the same part numbers as the rest of the C5s through '04.
This would be good to know if you ever have to replace the shroud for any reason. AAMOF, the later design assembly could very likely be retro-fitted to a '97 and for a whole lot less money. The later units do not have separate fan mounting brackets; they are incorporated into the shroud itself.
You can see this in this parts drawing:
Here's a pic of the '98 thru '04 I found and you can see the difference:
Last edited by LoneStarFRC; Jun 29, 2015 at 05:42 PM.
and i don't even mean that in a bad way. quality is worth paying for. i'm just surprised that no one over the years has started turning out a similar quality product in their own shop for as much margin as these things have
ET has posted previously his knowledge of optimal temps. I believe it was 205-210 degrees but not 100% positive.
Since my temps dropped from 247 to 205 now I am very pleased.
My fans wont ever kick on unless I get a hot day and hit 226.
I may purchase a CoolIt switch to start the fans when needed. I dont want to change my tune at this time.
Thanks. I did a little searching and Evil Twin addressed this in 2005 with this " ( 190/200 coolant... and 200/210 oil )". So that may be the range I will shoot for.
Thanks for the information LonestarFRC. That is good information on the shroud/fans.
I drove the car to work today which is 30 miles and 90% highway. The car never got over 194 on the highway.
I dont see the need to spend 400 on SPAL fans at this time.
I have no experience with them but whenever I see a double row, 1.0" core aluminum radiator selling for under $500 it usually means it was made in china or other overseas location where material are subsidized by the government and labor is cheap. These are typically a generic universal and not a direct fit. Not all imports are bad, it's just a crap shoot.
I have no experience with them but whenever I see a double row, 1.0" core aluminum radiator selling for under $500 it usually means it was made in china or other overseas location where material are subsidized by the government and labor is cheap. These are typically a generic universal and not a direct fit. Not all imports are bad, it's just a crap shoot.
Definitely not a direct fit and requires some fabrication and/or different radiator hoses. Most of my builds require fabrication so I've had good luck with them. I was just curious what your opinion was on them since they're in your wheelhouse.
I think are pricing is just fine when you look at the brand name leaders.
of course you do, you're who's making the profit
and i get that on a low volume item like specialty radiators. i'm just surprised that we haven't seen any private small shop competition
when you look at high volume cars like the turbo hondas / bmw which can all use the same radiator. koyo is producing a similar sized radiator for about $300 with shop cost around $170-200. these things are made in japan with some very high quality aluminum.
market is what the market is, i'd just be thankful you haven't had anyone make an end run on pricing
and i totally do acknowledge that you have a similar quality product to becool for almost half the price. i mean, i'd buy one if i got back into racing again
I put a DeWitt's in my '98 two weeks ago with similar results. I had my car tuned which included changing the fan settings. It was due for a tune anyway. Great product. I had a tough time paying the price, but I have no buyers remorse. The quality and fit were terrific.
buy the SPAL fans....you will really get some air moving....
Having an overheating issue on my 99 on days over 90. Can hit the 240+ when in traffic.
What would you suggest changing first? the fans to a SPAL setup or the original radiator to a DeWitt.
I can't afford to do both at once.
My stock fans have already been reset to come on earlier than normal due to a Chuck Cow tune.
The 160 degree thermostat will help in those HOT places during the summer... ET would run one during the summer months and then switch back to the 180 in the winter months.
Just put a 160 in our 04 and it's running right at 194...