battery not charging, battery and alternator test good...long read
09-24-2015, 11:55 AM
#21
Race Director
Thread Starter
it really is one thing after another with these cars
... glad you at least figured out what was going on, now hopefully you can get the right part to solve the issue... on a side note did you ever get the fuel pressure issue figured out??... I'm ready for you to get the car wrapped up so you can just get out and have fun with it
... glad you at least figured out what was going on, now hopefully you can get the right part to solve the issue... on a side note did you ever get the fuel pressure issue figured out??... I'm ready for you to get the car wrapped up so you can just get out and have fun with itI will let them know calling them now
09-24-2015, 12:02 PM
#22
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2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
C5 of Year Winner (performance mods) 2019
09-24-2015, 12:13 PM
#24
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hmm, I would think you would be fine at that pressure... you are running about 12psi of boost right?... so that would be 70psi fp at full boost... after adding my fuel system it was tuned at base pressure of 48psi with 127lb injectors... with the upp secondary setup you should have plenty of fuel, it just doesn't make any sense
09-25-2015, 10:20 AM
#25
Drifting
Good news and bad news..ao yeah looks like just the vibration of the cam and heat just made it came loose...good news is once I tightened everything up I put the alternator back on and volts went from 10 to mid 12s..definitely better but not the 13.9 to 14.2 I am used to..I went to Erics house and swapped alternators. I used mine on his and vice versa..when I used his I had 14.0v...when he used mine mid 12s...looks like they didn't rebuild it correctly or I would be finished...but the cause was that loose nut on the starter. Thanks for all your help gentleman.case closed now to deal with the alternator people again..
09-25-2015, 05:57 PM
#26
Race Director
Thread Starter
Well found out why every alternator I got from them didn't work...they kept putting a regulator for an automatic in...dumbasses...I'm the one that mentioned it to them after i read it on here..go figure..the original problem was that bolt being loose on the starter like I mentioned before..thanks again gents all is lovely. On to the 2 year fuel issue..
09-25-2015, 07:55 PM
#28
Race Director
Thread Starter
Yeah I used my buddies oem and they compared what they had. The pin outs were different and so was the p/n for the regulator for the manual vs automatic..that's what they are telling me..wish I just never had them touch it and this wouldn't be an issue since it was that loose bolt.grrr
09-26-2015, 06:26 AM
#32
Le Mans Master
The C5 used the same alternator for manuals and automatics from 97-00. Only in 01-04 were the automatics different and that was only because they used a decoupler pulley. Of course the 03 and 04 ones were 145 amp and not 110.
09-27-2015, 06:11 PM
#33
Race Director
Thread Starter
mine is a 01.so who knows. ill make teh drive to bfe on early this week if its the wrong one again. i wont be a happy camper. i been cool this whole time so.
02-07-2018, 08:59 PM
#34
6th Gear
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Recently had the same problem with my 98. Alternator tested good as well as battery. But every time i started the car, the voltage dropped like a rock.
My problem ended up be a little corrosion on the wire connection to the back of the alternator. When every thing was wired together, was only getting 11.5 volts. Once the connection was cleaned and lightly sanded, started getting 12 volts. Car ran fine after that.
I will keep an eye on the connection in the future!
My problem ended up be a little corrosion on the wire connection to the back of the alternator. When every thing was wired together, was only getting 11.5 volts. Once the connection was cleaned and lightly sanded, started getting 12 volts. Car ran fine after that.
I will keep an eye on the connection in the future!
08-09-2019, 07:57 PM
#35
Fire it up and take your voltmeter and put one lead on the main stud on the back of the alternator and the other lead on the battery positive post. If you read any significant voltage then you have a problem between the alternator and the battery. The most likely area for the failure is at the starter. The charging wire from the alternator goes to the starter with a fusible link at the starter end. The starter terminal itself is also known to corrode and make a poor connection.
So starter is what could be the cause or reason for power drainage? I just bought 2 new deep cell interstate batteries in match to.
So should I just replace the starter you think?
08-09-2019, 09:28 PM
#36
I think that you should charge the battery , then take it to auto zone and let them test the alt on the vehicle.
If you know how to use a vom test the voltage from the battery post on the alt to the positive battery terminal checking for a voltage drop
But don't run out and buy a starter. the op on this thread had loose wires on the starter. he didn't replace the starter, he tightened the connection on the starter from the battery
If you know how to use a vom test the voltage from the battery post on the alt to the positive battery terminal checking for a voltage drop
But don't run out and buy a starter. the op on this thread had loose wires on the starter. he didn't replace the starter, he tightened the connection on the starter from the battery
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