alternator?
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
alternator?
I began having issues with voltage in July on a 97 with 40k miles. No codes kicked out just lower voltage. My voltage had dropped to 12.9 to 13.4. The battery was changed. The car always starts. Noticed that the problem did not improve. What seems to happen is that in the cold weather and when it is cold, the voltage will show 13.8 to 14.0 which seems acceptable. When the temp outside heats up the voltage drops to 13.2. I wondered about the ignition switch but before I do, I am wondering if it is a bad alternator. It shows 14.0 on the volt meter when cold. I have not done a volt meter when it is hot. Before I change out the ignition switch, which seems fairly difficult, could it be a bad alternator that looses strength when it gets hot. When hot it is 13.2 on the dic. When cold it is 14.0 on the dic. Voltmeter shows 14.0 at the battery posts when cold. Any suggestions?
#2
Le Mans Master
I believe most Auto stores can load test your alternator... if it is bad, get it refurbished...don't just go get a replacement from Pep Boys... can be a bad deal.
#3
Racer
Thread Starter
I had auto zone test it and it tested good. I took it for a drive and the dic read 3.4 but at the posts on the battery the volt meter read 14.2. Apparently it is not the alternator. I am working through the various grounds.
#4
Le Mans Master
The dash gauges are downstream of the ignition switch and therefore the readings you see are often significantly lower than those at the battery. That is because the C5 ignition switch is well known for pitted and carbon covered contacts inside the switch as the years wear on.
#5
Racer
Thread Starter
The dash gauges are downstream of the ignition switch and therefore the readings you see are often significantly lower than those at the battery. That is because the C5 ignition switch is well known for pitted and carbon covered contacts inside the switch as the years wear on.
#6
Le Mans Master
Here is another option, sorry about the leisurely morning... dang C5's
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ch-repair.html
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ch-repair.html
Last edited by 73Corvette; 10-06-2015 at 04:46 PM.
#7
Racer
Thread Starter
Here is another option, sorry about the leisurely morning... dang C5's
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ch-repair.html
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ch-repair.html
#8
Le Mans Master
I would also wait for a second opinion from someone like 8vette7... someone will jump in...
#9
Race Director
Member Since: Dec 2010
Location: Atlanta, GA
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2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
C5 of Year Winner (performance mods) 2019
also check the connections at your starter to make sure they are tight and check for any corroded wires at the battery, alternator, and starter... there is also a fusible link from the alternator to the starter
#11
Racer
Thread Starter
Today it is still showing 13.4 on the DIC. I had the alternator and the battery rechecked and they showed good. The alternator is showing 14.2 and the battery is showing full charge at 12.9. I have checked all the connections, cleaned them where it seemed appropriate. I am at the point where I will get to the ignition switch this weekend and check it. I believe that this is the next step. Do you guys concur?
#12
Le Mans Master
I concur... good luck with your repairs
#13
Racer
Thread Starter
I read some of the other posts where they got a little edgy on this issue. I thank you and Bill and your gentle hand with a novice that does not mind getting his hands dirty. It may not be a problem at all, so its repair may be more hobby oriented. The car is running and starting fine. So, I am not too concerned if it maintains mid 13's on the DIC. But I want 13.8 like it used to be. I drove in west Texas in dust storm and it all began then. Dust sucks.
#14
Le Mans Master
I read some of the other posts where they got a little edgy on this issue. I thank you and Bill and your gentle hand with a novice that does not mind getting his hands dirty. It may not be a problem at all, so its repair may be more hobby oriented. The car is running and starting fine. So, I am not too concerned if it maintains mid 13's on the DIC. But I want 13.8 like it used to be. I drove in west Texas in dust storm and it all began then. Dust sucks.
As long as your aware of it and it doesn't bug you too much... it's all good. YES dust does suck... we have our share here in Northwest Oklahoma. Take your time and let us know how your repair goes...
#15
Race Director
Member Since: Apr 2007
Location: South Western Ontario
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If you have a voltmeter then set it to DC voltage and put the leads on any continuously powered fuse (Fuse 50, 52, 25 etc) and Fuse 19 which is the ignition switched fuse feeding the instrument cluster. This measures the voltage drop across the ignition switch and it should be very close to 0V.
You can also check from a ground source to the fuses to see what the voltage is.
You can also check from a ground source to the fuses to see what the voltage is.
#17
Morning
Once you've done it, it's a 1/2 hour job..
You would be amazed at the things that a new 100 dollar switch will fix on these c5's.
Trust me I've been there done that..
Bob
#18
Racer
Thread Starter
Bob - you are encouraging and I will be doing a step by step. "take screw A and turn to the left" kind of stuff. I have the switch in my possession and will do so on Friday. "Take switch out of box. Retain box to smash later" Do you know of picture diagrams for this task? Thanks Bob
Pops ..
Pops ..
#19
on this website
Bob - you are encouraging and I will be doing a step by step. "take screw A and turn to the left" kind of stuff. I have the switch in my possession and will do so on Friday. "Take switch out of box. Retain box to smash later" Do you know of picture diagrams for this task? Thanks Bob
Pops ..
Pops ..
Trust me it's not hard, just remember is only a car it will not break if you look at it funny...
Bob