When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Yup, just ordered the stock pilot bearing. Will rent the blind hole puller from autozone, pull the clutch and flywheel and ditch the bronze pilot bushing and then give this another shot in a week or so. I will definitely post back with more feedback.
Don't feel bad. I couldn't get the torque tube/transmission/differential assembly to plug back into an engine with both parts basically on the floor, but raised up so there was room to play. This was on an assembly that had just been separated so the clutch was aligned about as good as it could get.
You're more likely to damage the roller bearing pilot then screw-up the input shaft.
Last edited by lionelhutz; 11-10-2015 at 02:16 PM.
im not sure what changing the pilot will do for you...
Addressing this issue...
"I could get the engine guides to touch the holes on the bell housing but I was not able to get the motor to slide into the bell housing guides for me to get some bolts torqued down."
I suggest you take the bell housing off the torque tube, and put it on the motor by itself. You may have to do this under the car?
But once that's done, you should be able to get everything close enought that you can pull the motor onto the torque tube with a c-clamp. Thats how i install the drive train into the motor... never have been able to push it in all the way... just use the c-clamp to get it close enough to start some bolts.
Thanks for all the suggestions. I already went ahead and pulled the pilot bushing. I can't imagine swapping out the bushing to bearing will make a difference in ease of installing but it won't hurt either.
I will have several changes to attempt this that doesn't require dropping the rear cradle. I like the idea of attaching the bell housing to the motor first, torquing bolts down to spec and the brackets that go to the engine as they will be difficult to reach with the heads on doing it otherwise.
I will give installing the motor one shot with the clutch torqued down for an hour or so. If I can't get the shaft lined up, I will loosen the clutch bolts as lionelhutz suggested. Then after getting the shaft lined up I will rotate the flywheel and pull each bolt and reapply red loctite as it cures in 10 minutes IIRC. Then torque down in their correct sequence.
I also thought of the fact I have long bell housing bolts that I used to mount the motor to the engine stand with while rebuilding the motor. I could could start the bolts a few threads in just to keep the TT and bell housing lined up after getting the clutch lined up on the splines of the shaft and use my 5" C-clamps from under. Then lower or raise the engine in small increments and shake it a bit till it hopefully slides on the guides.
If there are any other suggestions or flaws in my approach, criticism and suggestions are welcome.
Drop the cradle and make your life easy. All these other Ideas will make you work more. Even with the cradle dropped as low as it can go installed you still will not be able to install the motor that way. You cant even remove the motor with the cradle lowered as far as itll go. you have to remove it or the oil pan with hit the cradle. It wont let you get the motor to the angle it needs to be at to connect everything.
Word. Yeah just take your time then and itll slide right in there when its ready. Everybodys first time is a lil tough. Just make sure you put a lil lube on it first.
Word. Yeah just take your time then and itll slide right in there when its ready. Everybodys first time is a lil tough. Just make sure you put a lil lube on it first.
I am SO tempted to make a smart-a$$ comment on this post!
Tomorrow the pilot bearing comes in, going to toss it in the freezer for a couple of hours then tap it in. Afterward I will reinstall the flywheel and clutch. Sunday I'm planning on giving this another go.
Hello, I was checking out your thread and the photo in post #30 and that does not appear to be a stock clutch…and the throw-out bearing is on the clutch diaphragm…Red Box.
Unfortunately I do not have experience with an aftermarket clutch system but to see the through-out bearing on the clutch diaphragm with such a big gap between the bell housing and TQ tube indicates to me that you may have two issues;
1) The stack up tolerances between the through-out bearing is on the clutch diaphragm might be incorrect causing your fitment struggles.
OR
2) The throw-out bearing is hyd extended a bit and NOT in the proper position.
Possible solutions to both the above starting with the easiest first
Disconnect the clutch hyd line quick disconnect to insure you do not introduce air into the clutch master cylinder, open the throw-out bearing bleeder screw, leave it open so any hyd pressure can be relieved while you a try to connect the assembly.
If the above does not work, then you will need to move the engine out of the way, completely remove the through-out bearing from the TQ tube and assemble without the through-out bearing. If the assembly goes smooth as butter, then you know you have a stack up tolerance issue.
I have edited the photo to show the throw-out bearing
Good Luck,
Kevin
Forgot to add I have loosened the clutch, tried thread some bolts a couple of threads but I haven't been able to get the right angle. Same issue, can't get the guides to go into the TT. Taking a timeout and will go back out and pick up the torch.
69, you are the man. I got the motor mounted after opening the bleeder on the slave. In the process of getting the cradle back up. Will post some detail shortly.
Hello, I was checking out your thread and the photo in post #30 and that does not appear to be a stock clutch…and the throw-out bearing is on the clutch diaphragm…Red Box.
Unfortunately I do not have experience with an aftermarket clutch system but to see the through-out bearing on the clutch diaphragm with such a big gap between the bell housing and TQ tube indicates to me that you may have two issues;
1) The stack up tolerances between the through-out bearing is on the clutch diaphragm might be incorrect causing your fitment struggles.
OR
2) The throw-out bearing is hyd extended a bit and NOT in the proper position.
Possible solutions to both the above starting with the easiest first
Disconnect the clutch hyd line quick disconnect to insure you do not introduce air into the clutch master cylinder, open the throw-out bearing bleeder screw, leave it open so any hyd pressure can be relieved while you a try to connect the assembly.
If the above does not work, then you will need to move the engine out of the way, completely remove the through-out bearing from the TQ tube and assemble without the through-out bearing. If the assembly goes smooth as butter, then you know you have a stack up tolerance issue.
I have edited the photo to show the throw-out bearing
Good Luck,
Kevin
Thanks a lot guys for all the help I almost threw in the towel today. 69, Bill, Lionelhutz, and especially Johnny if you're ever in Colorado I owe you a beer. I still have a VERY long way to go till I get my car back on the road but today was one massive step forward. The winning combination to get this on was to lube the input shaft with a little engine assembly lube, pre-install the bellhousing, loosen the clutch bolts, loosen the bleeder screw on the slave.
I tried to get the quick disconnect undone for the master to slave line and couldn't get it totally off today. I have the plastic and metal quick disconnect tool, neither was working. While getting pissed trying to get the quick disconnect off I looked at the bellhousing to TT and noticed the gap was down to a 1/4 of an inch. I can only speculate opening the bleeder let the weight of the engine push on to the shaft. I put all 5 bolts in the TT to bellhousing, torqued them down incrementally and got the connection to seal.
I thankfully remembered to put the AC bolts back in before raising the front cradle and also put the steering rack back in. I read that the 22mm nuts for the cradle to cross member are one time use. I torqued the nuts down to 81ft lbs but want to order some new nuts, anyone have the part number for those nuts?
For the engine mounts I found the following torque specs. There is a nut on the bottom of the mount that goes through the cradle and a nut on top that goes through the block to engine mount bracket. Which is for which torque spec?
Engine Mount Through Bolts / 70
Engine Mount Through Bolt NUTS / 59
Thank you all so much, extremely grateful for the advice. Ignore the mess which is my garage, it will be back in business tomorrow.
Last edited by tommypenguin; 11-15-2015 at 09:19 PM.
Good to hear. I'm a little surprized the bleeder did anything. When I've had a clutch with hydraulic slave apart the slave would extend due to the spring but then just push back with little effort when assembling.
And what about the headers? Do you have long tubes? Are they easy to get on with the heads already on? I know my passenger side was a pain in the *** when I forgot to put them in before the heads.
Good to hear. I'm a little surprized the bleeder did anything. When I've had a clutch with hydraulic slave apart the slave would extend due to the spring but then just push back with little effort when assembling.
I was surprised as well as I could push the throwout bearing toward the slave cylinder by hand with a little elbow grease. If I ever had to do this again I would be getting a laser alignment tool and take measurements to help in getting the angle correct.
Originally Posted by Cedarberry
Nice job, what did you do to the motor? S/C goin back on?
Do I see a little mod red
Long story short an aluminum foil oil bottle seal fell into the motor, damaged a couple of lifters and the cam shaft and ultimately got stuck in the oil pickup tube screen causing the oil pump to go out.
The S/C will be going back, still have the seats I bought from you.
Originally Posted by Johnny wangwang
And what about the headers? Do you have long tubes? Are they easy to get on with the heads already on? I know my passenger side was a pain in the *** when I forgot to put them in before the heads.
I do have long tubes and they were b**** to remove. I had to unbolt the starter on the passenger side and on the driver side I had to unbolt one of the hard to reach negatives, pull the valve cover and play a lot of operation snaking it through. IIRC driver side had to be put up through the bottom and passenger through the top.
Did you reuse your cradle nuts to frame or did you replace?
11-10-2015, 12:48 PM
