big454blockchevy

I recently dynoed my 99 coupe and was satisfied with the power made. But now the transmission started acting up. I have the trans on stands to see if maybe it's low on fluid but ain't holding my breath. My question is would I be able to do a trans swap without a lift and in my garage?

nullpointer

Yes, I've pulled the trans out on jack stands before. Second time I had a lift, which helped, but isn't required. Make sure to purchase a transmission jack, it will save you a lot of time and energy.

Echo97vette

Agreed, A buddy of mine did his in the garage, new clutch and DTE trans brace. Just jackstands and a tranny jack. Kind of a pain but doable.

Best of luck

big454blockchevy

Thanks , I will do this in about 3 weeks.

dankhts

:iagree did it last week on mine..... bit of a PITA but I've had mine out 3 times this year on my A4....1st time to rebuild the posi, 2nd time to replace the twisted propshaft, 3rd time to change the TC...

Bill Curlee

Some things to be concerned with:

- When you have the trans out,,, disassemble the Torque Tube and inspect the rubber couplers and bearings. Recommend replacing them with new GM OEM couplers. If, the bearings are rough or loose,, replace them.

- The Diff Output shaft seals will most likely need replacement. GETERDONE!

I do all my C5 drivetrain work on jack stands. Its not difficult!

Bill

neutron82

I've done it twice in my garage on jack stands... the first time is not so fun but after that it's not bad at all since you know exactly what needs to be done... I use an atv jack which makes it a lot easier to do alone, just put a couple of boards on the jack running horizontally and it will fully support the cradle/suspension and keep it from rocking side to side... since you are only changing the trans you should be able to leave the torque tube in the car which will make reassembly much easier... here's a pic from the first time when I did my clutch just to give you an idea of the type of jack I used

big454blockchevy

I appreciate the replies guys. I will definately do the work myself now.

dankhts

going to put it away for the winter now before I break something else

junk c5

You made a lot more power than I did before my trans went. Mine burned up at 420 rwhp. I've had the trans in and out of my car a few times on jackstands. Definitely doable and not too bad. I've got a pair of 12 inch race ramp wheel cradles that I use upfront.

big454blockchevy

The rear cradle is off , the trans/diff are next. I also decided on a 3600 stall from Yank.

jonofmac

What mods are done to the engine?

For what it's worth, I pulled my rear end out with everything still on the cradle, and torque tube attached.

I didn't have a transmission jack, and had to use 2 regular jacks.

BigGun

Might be a good time to upgrade the diff to 3:42 if you don't already have 3:15.

big454blockchevy

I was thinking precisely that .

Bill Curlee

also check the couplers inside the TT for damage. The TT bearings for noise and wear..

BC

LoneStarFRC

Ever hear the expression "a chain is only as strong as it's weakest link"? That old cliche is especially true with performance vehicles. If you add enough power under the hood, sooner or later you'll find every weak link in the drivetrain downstream from it.

Sorry to hear about the trans issues. Git'er done..

tblu92

My recommendation would be to also have a competent tuner re -program your A4 with tuning-----GM programs their autos to have lazy shifts and strive to accomplish seamless shifts--This is great for most women drivers and those not interested in performance--However at a cost of early trans failure due to overheating
In order to achieve seamless shifts-GM slips the clutches during shifts and has a built in delay as to how quick the solenoid snap----This not only goes for the gear shifting but also for the TQ converter lock-up---
An electronic shift kit by a full tuner with HP or EFILIVE can make your trans shift firmly without any clutch slippage--Thus reducing fluid over heating--Same for the TQ converter lockup which in stock trim is extremely soft
ALSO GM locks the converter at a way early 38 MPH--That is horrible as it causes your engine to lug badly and maybe even ping----I always set the 4th gear lockup to at least 50 MPH so the converter will only lock when on the freeway---Also I eliminate the 3rd gear lock-up entirely and this stops the converter from constant locking and unlocking at low speeds which again causes HEAT and reduces trans life---
One more suggestion is to DELETE all the TQ management----Again another GM program which at each shift will remove as much as 30% of your engines TQ by reducing timing and limiting throttle opening---So at each shift your engine is always having to regain the momentum it lost thru the ECM---lost momentum equals lazy shifts--poor mileage --slow ET's lazy throttle response-----I have seen STOCK engines gain from 3-4 tenths in the 1/4 mile times with trans tuning alone---Not to mention increased life

big454blockchevy

Thanks , will do. Also might as well do gears on it since I have the differential on the garage floor. This is not a daily driver so I will probably go with 3.90 gears . I will post my dyno graph to show the power curve.

big454blockchevy

Dyno sheet

ajrothm

I would stick with 3.42 gears and the 3600 converter... 3.90 gears and you'll likely run out of RPMs before the end of the 1/4 in 3rd gear. Not to mention running down the highway at 2500 rpms instead of 2000...

Its pointless to go with more then 3.42s... Especially on a blower car...The converter will do all the work.

Make sure you put a good trans cooler on it with the new converter. The B&M 70297 with the fan is a good cooler.