changed PCV valve now have high oil psi readings...
#1
Pro
Thread Starter
changed PCV valve now have high oil psi readings...
Replaced PCV with a new AC Delco, don't think I dripped or knocked anything...now I am getting readings on 100-110 psi on the digital readout, the analog gauge is pegged at 80.
Oil temps seem normal around 190 or so.
Any suggestions, looks like the oil pressure sender is a big job to swap?
Oil temps seem normal around 190 or so.
Any suggestions, looks like the oil pressure sender is a big job to swap?
#2
Drifting
Hard is relative to your ability. You have to pull the intake to get to it and there are a couple little gotchas associated with the job. There are posts here with all the details on doing the job right.
The PCV and oil pressure aren't related in that swapping out PCV parts wouldn't cause the pressure indication.
O'Reilley's sells the brass-bodied replacement sensor with a lifetime free replacement. Some folks will say that the aluminum bodied sensors are more prone to failure. I don't have any personal knowledge either way, but the last one I bought at O'Reilley's 3 years ago is still good.
The PCV and oil pressure aren't related in that swapping out PCV parts wouldn't cause the pressure indication.
O'Reilley's sells the brass-bodied replacement sensor with a lifetime free replacement. Some folks will say that the aluminum bodied sensors are more prone to failure. I don't have any personal knowledge either way, but the last one I bought at O'Reilley's 3 years ago is still good.
#4
Melting Slicks
since the pcv hose runs behind the intake, it may have bumped the connector for the sender, and that may have caused the sender failure if it was already on its way out.
#5
Drifting
What year car, there are about 3 PCV versions. The early version has a plastic hose running from the passenger side to the drivers that is sorta close to the OP sensor, but you would have to work at it to disturb the OP sensor. It is common for the 45deg rubber connector to split where this hose assembly turns at the back of the passenger side of the engine. Usually creates an oily mess.
The OP sensor is threaded into the back of the block about top-center. There are some aftermarket mods that move the OP sensor to the driver's side of the engine.
If you can explain in detail how you fixed your PCV maybe it would shed some light on the possibility. There is a Metripak connector on the top of the OP sensor, but it latches firmly in place and you would have to deliberately unlatch this latch to disturb the electrical connection (unless some previous owner modified the connector). That being said, if that connector is un-plugged from the OP sensor, it might give the same max oil pressure indication at the IPC and DIC.
You are still stuck with pulling the intake to troubleshoot or replace the OPsensor, so to me, that is your next step. If you are lucky, just the electrical connector is somehow lifted. IF not then it might be a good idea with the intake off to go ahead and replace the OPsensor.
The OP sensor is threaded into the back of the block about top-center. There are some aftermarket mods that move the OP sensor to the driver's side of the engine.
If you can explain in detail how you fixed your PCV maybe it would shed some light on the possibility. There is a Metripak connector on the top of the OP sensor, but it latches firmly in place and you would have to deliberately unlatch this latch to disturb the electrical connection (unless some previous owner modified the connector). That being said, if that connector is un-plugged from the OP sensor, it might give the same max oil pressure indication at the IPC and DIC.
You are still stuck with pulling the intake to troubleshoot or replace the OPsensor, so to me, that is your next step. If you are lucky, just the electrical connector is somehow lifted. IF not then it might be a good idea with the intake off to go ahead and replace the OPsensor.
#6
Pro
Thread Starter
Sorry have a 2001 base coupe....the replacement AC Delco PCV looked exactly like what was on the car - barbed end, silver metal body. Just pulled off the smaller hose end, wiggled old out of larger hose, and installed new.
Did not use any tools to remove old or insert new.
Is it worth trying to disconnect or reconnect any of the electrical connections in the area?
Thanks!
Did not use any tools to remove old or insert new.
Is it worth trying to disconnect or reconnect any of the electrical connections in the area?
Thanks!
#9
Pro
Thread Starter
Thanks, was wondering if a dummy light besides gauge. So if it sender is reading false high pressure don't think I could rely on getting a true low pressure warning on DIC with the ck gages light.
Interesting that the DIC digital seems to be accurate plus 60...at idle about 100 up to 110 upon higher rpm's.
Interesting that the DIC digital seems to be accurate plus 60...at idle about 100 up to 110 upon higher rpm's.
#10
Tech Contributor
Member Since: Dec 1999
Location: Anthony TX
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CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
I've posted this SAME picture 4 times this week alone. Here is a picture of the Oil Pressure Sender.
Plain and Simple.... Remove the intake manifold and replace it. They fail and fail a LOT. Its one of the C5 common issues.
Even the new ones fail and people have gotten mad enough to invent a OPS relocation kit.
The OPS is the tall thing with the BRASS BODY on the right side of the valve valley cover.
You can also see how I cut and lengthened the small vacuum line that connects to the back of the intake manifold. Its a ROYAL PITA to get it connected and stay connected during the intake reinstallation.
Plain and Simple.... Remove the intake manifold and replace it. They fail and fail a LOT. Its one of the C5 common issues.
Even the new ones fail and people have gotten mad enough to invent a OPS relocation kit.
The OPS is the tall thing with the BRASS BODY on the right side of the valve valley cover.
You can also see how I cut and lengthened the small vacuum line that connects to the back of the intake manifold. Its a ROYAL PITA to get it connected and stay connected during the intake reinstallation.
#12
Pro
Thread Starter
I'm thinking of cutting the fiberglass on the cowl...just had it exposed a million times for wiper woes.
Wondering if taking off the right side engine cover hit the OPS, just odd that first start after PCV swap the OPS fails....
So whats the best OPS - should I go with AC Delco or the brass O' Riellys people mention?
#13
1/4 mile/AutoX
I relocated mine (was installing a LS 6 intake) !!!!!
#15
Drifting
O'Reilley's is my vote, and it is not that big a deal to pull the intake. As BC has written in the past, watch the little vacuum line. In fact there are three connections to be careful of that all connect to the back of the intake. One electrical and two vacuum. Patience will be rewarded here and gentle will too.
Also, thoroughly clean and dry the threaded holes for the manifold bolts, and clean and dry the intake; you will find oil in it especially if you had PCV troubles. A good reason NOT to drill the hole.
Also, thoroughly clean and dry the threaded holes for the manifold bolts, and clean and dry the intake; you will find oil in it especially if you had PCV troubles. A good reason NOT to drill the hole.