C5 Tech Corvette Tech/Performance: LS1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine, Tech Topics, Basic Tech, Maintenance, How to Remove & Replace
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

Im lowered on stock bolts... this look normal?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 01-31-2016, 05:47 PM
  #1  
bwill03z
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
 
bwill03z's Avatar
 
Member Since: Nov 2011
Location: Virginia
Posts: 2,734
Received 197 Likes on 171 Posts

Default Im lowered on stock bolts... this look normal?

Lowered all the way in front, two threads showing in the rear. Does this look about right or still a bit high? Its been done for awhile with plenty of drive time to settle. It still looks a little high to me. I do have Bilstein sport shocks though so maybe thats the difference?!
Old 01-31-2016, 05:55 PM
  #2  
GUSTO14
Le Mans Master
 
GUSTO14's Avatar
 
Member Since: Sep 2003
Location: eastern NC
Posts: 8,801
Received 1,962 Likes on 1,283 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by bwill03z
Lowered all the way in front, two threads showing in the rear. Does this look about right or still a bit high? Its been done for awhile with plenty of drive time to settle. It still looks a little high to me. I do have Bilstein sport shocks though so maybe thats the difference?!
Sounds about right... were you gonna post a picture?

Good luck... GUSTO
Old 01-31-2016, 05:59 PM
  #3  
bwill03z
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
 
bwill03z's Avatar
 
Member Since: Nov 2011
Location: Virginia
Posts: 2,734
Received 197 Likes on 171 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by GUSTO14
Sounds about right... were you gonna post a picture?

Good luck... GUSTO
Haha would probably help out the post huh


Old 01-31-2016, 07:11 PM
  #4  
Shakeydeal
Melting Slicks
 
Shakeydeal's Avatar
 
Member Since: Aug 2015
Posts: 2,900
Received 304 Likes on 254 Posts
Default

Too high in the rear.

Shakey
Old 01-31-2016, 07:23 PM
  #5  
bwill03z
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
 
bwill03z's Avatar
 
Member Since: Nov 2011
Location: Virginia
Posts: 2,734
Received 197 Likes on 171 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by Shakeydeal
Too high in the rear.

Shakey
I thought so too. Im down to 2 threads showing


Old 01-31-2016, 07:33 PM
  #6  
ZigZag
Burning Brakes

 
ZigZag's Avatar
 
Member Since: May 2013
Location: Lynn MA
Posts: 1,249
Received 140 Likes on 116 Posts

Default

Looks high to me also, when I did mine I had two fingers all the way around. Lower it the rest of the way, or it may be those shocks but I kinda doubt it.
Old 01-31-2016, 07:33 PM
  #7  
neutron82
Race Director
Support Corvetteforum!
 
neutron82's Avatar
 
Member Since: Dec 2010
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 10,426
Received 1,261 Likes on 1,056 Posts
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
C5 of Year Winner (performance mods) 2019

Default

looks high in the rear to me as well... you can also cut the bushings in half
Old 01-31-2016, 07:39 PM
  #8  
bwill03z
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
 
bwill03z's Avatar
 
Member Since: Nov 2011
Location: Virginia
Posts: 2,734
Received 197 Likes on 171 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by neutron82
looks high in the rear to me as well... you can also cut the bushings in half

Not sure if I want to cut the bushings. I may just take it on down to where no threads are showing. I was just concerned about messing with the rake too much by doing that.
Old 01-31-2016, 08:28 PM
  #9  
Solofast
Melting Slicks
 
Solofast's Avatar
 
Member Since: Aug 2004
Location: Indy IN
Posts: 3,003
Received 85 Likes on 71 Posts

Default

If you didn't turn the bolts the same number of turns on each side, you've screwed up the corner weights. You should have a difference of between two and three threads between the RR and the LR. The proper procedure for lowering is to turn the screws in the front the same number of full turns. This puts the plastic pads in the same relative position and it takes little or no time for the car to settle out. In the back you should have turned the bolts the same number of turns from side to side and because the frames aren't the same on each side the screws will have different numbers of turns showing from side to side in the back.

All of these rear frames on these cars aren't square, they all came out of the jig a bit twisted and that shows up in how much negative camber you can get from side to side and how much travel is in the lowering bolts.
Old 01-31-2016, 09:29 PM
  #10  
Vetteman Jack
Administrator

Support Corvetteforum!
 
Vetteman Jack's Avatar
 
Member Since: Mar 2001
Location: In a parallel universe. Currently own 2014 Stingray Coupe.
Posts: 342,917
Received 19,289 Likes on 13,964 Posts
C7 of the Year - Modified Finalist 2021
MO Events Coordinator
St. Jude Co-Organizer
St. Jude Donor '03-'04-'05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17-'18-'19-
'20-'21-'22-'23-'24
NCM Sinkhole Donor
CI 5, 8 & 11 Veteran


Default

At least to me, the back looks really high and the fronts still look a bit high.
Old 01-31-2016, 11:18 PM
  #11  
bwill03z
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
 
bwill03z's Avatar
 
Member Since: Nov 2011
Location: Virginia
Posts: 2,734
Received 197 Likes on 171 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by Solofast
If you didn't turn the bolts the same number of turns on each side, you've screwed up the corner weights. You should have a difference of between two and three threads between the RR and the LR. The proper procedure for lowering is to turn the screws in the front the same number of full turns. This puts the plastic pads in the same relative position and it takes little or no time for the car to settle out. In the back you should have turned the bolts the same number of turns from side to side and because the frames aren't the same on each side the screws will have different numbers of turns showing from side to side in the back.

All of these rear frames on these cars aren't square, they all came out of the jig a bit twisted and that shows up in how much negative camber you can get from side to side and how much travel is in the lowering bolts.
Yeah I found that out after I lowered it. I guess I should have researched it a bit more first. Is there anyway to get the corner weights corrected again or am I pretty much screwed?
Old 01-31-2016, 11:43 PM
  #12  
laurent_zo6
Melting Slicks
 
laurent_zo6's Avatar
 
Member Since: Aug 2013
Posts: 2,491
Received 312 Likes on 227 Posts
St. Jude Donor '15-'16-'17-'18-'19-'20-'21-'22

Default

Originally Posted by Vetteman Jack
At least to me, the back looks really high and the fronts still look a bit high.
Old 01-31-2016, 11:55 PM
  #13  
JrRifleCoach
Team Owner

 
JrRifleCoach's Avatar
 
Member Since: Sep 2003
Location: Freedom is never more than one generation away from extinction.
Posts: 20,161
Received 640 Likes on 444 Posts
St. Jude '03-'04-'05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17-'18-‘19-'20-'21-'22-'23-'24


Default

Same situation here. Lots more gap than I was hoping for.
Car definitely stays planted. And no push when the suspension bottoms early.

Old 02-01-2016, 08:49 AM
  #14  
Gordy M
Melting Slicks
 
Gordy M's Avatar
 
Member Since: Feb 2001
Location: Plymouth MI
Posts: 2,657
Received 316 Likes on 271 Posts

Default

If you raise the front slightly you will in effect lower the rear. It is quite common to want to lower the front bolts all the way, which just increases the rake (angle) on the Corvette. This leads to larger gaps in the wheel well. Also, when you slam the car down, you increase the chance of hitting the bump stops in sharp turns, bumpy roads, etc.
Old 02-01-2016, 09:39 AM
  #15  
Solofast
Melting Slicks
 
Solofast's Avatar
 
Member Since: Aug 2004
Location: Indy IN
Posts: 3,003
Received 85 Likes on 71 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by bwill03z
Yeah I found that out after I lowered it. I guess I should have researched it a bit more first. Is there anyway to get the corner weights corrected again or am I pretty much screwed?
If you know someone who has a set of scales you can fix it right in about 5 minutes by just twisting the rear bolts and you can reach those from under the back of the car.

Some SCCA regions have "test and tune" autocross sessions and some have scales available at them. A good race shop can do it pretty quickly but it will probably cost you $100 or more because they will want to charge you for a "total" corner weight job even though you only need to turn one bolt a couple of turns. If you can find a good race shop talk to them, tell them that they only have to turn one or two bolts and that it is a really quick job and they may fix it for you.

If not you can tighten the RR about 2 turns and be close. For a street car that may be good enough. If you have some experience you can feel the difference, the car will push more in one direction and be looser in the other. It takes a pretty calibrated bum but it is pretty obvious if you know what you are looking for.
Old 02-01-2016, 11:46 AM
  #16  
bwill03z
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
 
bwill03z's Avatar
 
Member Since: Nov 2011
Location: Virginia
Posts: 2,734
Received 197 Likes on 171 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by Solofast
If you know someone who has a set of scales you can fix it right in about 5 minutes by just twisting the rear bolts and you can reach those from under the back of the car.

Some SCCA regions have "test and tune" autocross sessions and some have scales available at them. A good race shop can do it pretty quickly but it will probably cost you $100 or more because they will want to charge you for a "total" corner weight job even though you only need to turn one bolt a couple of turns. If you can find a good race shop talk to them, tell them that they only have to turn one or two bolts and that it is a really quick job and they may fix it for you.

If not you can tighten the RR about 2 turns and be close. For a street car that may be good enough. If you have some experience you can feel the difference, the car will push more in one direction and be looser in the other. It takes a pretty calibrated bum but it is pretty obvious if you know what you are looking for.
Access to some scales is probably not going to happen so I will prob just try tightening the RR. So, is it a general rule that the RR bolt will be a could turns or so tighter than the LR? Or could some cars be the opposite?
Old 02-01-2016, 05:59 PM
  #17  
leadfoot4
Team Owner
 
leadfoot4's Avatar
 
Member Since: May 2001
Location: Western NY
Posts: 82,760
Received 1,343 Likes on 1,094 Posts

Default

OP, how far have you driven it, to this point? They need a little time to settle...

Get notified of new replies

To Im lowered on stock bolts... this look normal?

Old 02-01-2016, 06:16 PM
  #18  
bwill03z
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
 
bwill03z's Avatar
 
Member Since: Nov 2011
Location: Virginia
Posts: 2,734
Received 197 Likes on 171 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by leadfoot4
OP, how far have you driven it, to this point? They need a little time to settle...
A good 500 miles or better
Old 02-01-2016, 06:18 PM
  #19  
leadfoot4
Team Owner
 
leadfoot4's Avatar
 
Member Since: May 2001
Location: Western NY
Posts: 82,760
Received 1,343 Likes on 1,094 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by bwill03z
A good 500 miles or better
That's certainly enough...
Old 02-01-2016, 06:43 PM
  #20  
bwill03z
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
 
bwill03z's Avatar
 
Member Since: Nov 2011
Location: Virginia
Posts: 2,734
Received 197 Likes on 171 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by leadfoot4
That's certainly enough...
Let me take that back. I lowered over 500 miles ago and then recently lowered the rear a bit more. Since lowering the rear I have only driven probably 50 miles. The fronts havent plenty of drive time on them.


Quick Reply: Im lowered on stock bolts... this look normal?



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 03:42 PM.