Im lowered on stock bolts... this look normal?
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Im lowered on stock bolts... this look normal?
Lowered all the way in front, two threads showing in the rear. Does this look about right or still a bit high? Its been done for awhile with plenty of drive time to settle. It still looks a little high to me. I do have Bilstein sport shocks though so maybe thats the difference?!
#2
Le Mans Master
Lowered all the way in front, two threads showing in the rear. Does this look about right or still a bit high? Its been done for awhile with plenty of drive time to settle. It still looks a little high to me. I do have Bilstein sport shocks though so maybe thats the difference?!
Good luck... GUSTO
#3
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
#4
Too high in the rear.
Shakey
Shakey
#6
Burning Brakes
Looks high to me also, when I did mine I had two fingers all the way around. Lower it the rest of the way, or it may be those shocks but I kinda doubt it.
#7
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looks high in the rear to me as well... you can also cut the bushings in half
#8
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
#9
Melting Slicks
If you didn't turn the bolts the same number of turns on each side, you've screwed up the corner weights. You should have a difference of between two and three threads between the RR and the LR. The proper procedure for lowering is to turn the screws in the front the same number of full turns. This puts the plastic pads in the same relative position and it takes little or no time for the car to settle out. In the back you should have turned the bolts the same number of turns from side to side and because the frames aren't the same on each side the screws will have different numbers of turns showing from side to side in the back.
All of these rear frames on these cars aren't square, they all came out of the jig a bit twisted and that shows up in how much negative camber you can get from side to side and how much travel is in the lowering bolts.
All of these rear frames on these cars aren't square, they all came out of the jig a bit twisted and that shows up in how much negative camber you can get from side to side and how much travel is in the lowering bolts.
#10
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At least to me, the back looks really high and the fronts still look a bit high.
#11
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
If you didn't turn the bolts the same number of turns on each side, you've screwed up the corner weights. You should have a difference of between two and three threads between the RR and the LR. The proper procedure for lowering is to turn the screws in the front the same number of full turns. This puts the plastic pads in the same relative position and it takes little or no time for the car to settle out. In the back you should have turned the bolts the same number of turns from side to side and because the frames aren't the same on each side the screws will have different numbers of turns showing from side to side in the back.
All of these rear frames on these cars aren't square, they all came out of the jig a bit twisted and that shows up in how much negative camber you can get from side to side and how much travel is in the lowering bolts.
All of these rear frames on these cars aren't square, they all came out of the jig a bit twisted and that shows up in how much negative camber you can get from side to side and how much travel is in the lowering bolts.
#13
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Same situation here. Lots more gap than I was hoping for.
Car definitely stays planted. And no push when the suspension bottoms early.
Car definitely stays planted. And no push when the suspension bottoms early.
#14
Melting Slicks
If you raise the front slightly you will in effect lower the rear. It is quite common to want to lower the front bolts all the way, which just increases the rake (angle) on the Corvette. This leads to larger gaps in the wheel well. Also, when you slam the car down, you increase the chance of hitting the bump stops in sharp turns, bumpy roads, etc.
#15
Melting Slicks
Some SCCA regions have "test and tune" autocross sessions and some have scales available at them. A good race shop can do it pretty quickly but it will probably cost you $100 or more because they will want to charge you for a "total" corner weight job even though you only need to turn one bolt a couple of turns. If you can find a good race shop talk to them, tell them that they only have to turn one or two bolts and that it is a really quick job and they may fix it for you.
If not you can tighten the RR about 2 turns and be close. For a street car that may be good enough. If you have some experience you can feel the difference, the car will push more in one direction and be looser in the other. It takes a pretty calibrated bum but it is pretty obvious if you know what you are looking for.
#16
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
If you know someone who has a set of scales you can fix it right in about 5 minutes by just twisting the rear bolts and you can reach those from under the back of the car.
Some SCCA regions have "test and tune" autocross sessions and some have scales available at them. A good race shop can do it pretty quickly but it will probably cost you $100 or more because they will want to charge you for a "total" corner weight job even though you only need to turn one bolt a couple of turns. If you can find a good race shop talk to them, tell them that they only have to turn one or two bolts and that it is a really quick job and they may fix it for you.
If not you can tighten the RR about 2 turns and be close. For a street car that may be good enough. If you have some experience you can feel the difference, the car will push more in one direction and be looser in the other. It takes a pretty calibrated bum but it is pretty obvious if you know what you are looking for.
Some SCCA regions have "test and tune" autocross sessions and some have scales available at them. A good race shop can do it pretty quickly but it will probably cost you $100 or more because they will want to charge you for a "total" corner weight job even though you only need to turn one bolt a couple of turns. If you can find a good race shop talk to them, tell them that they only have to turn one or two bolts and that it is a really quick job and they may fix it for you.
If not you can tighten the RR about 2 turns and be close. For a street car that may be good enough. If you have some experience you can feel the difference, the car will push more in one direction and be looser in the other. It takes a pretty calibrated bum but it is pretty obvious if you know what you are looking for.
#17
Team Owner
OP, how far have you driven it, to this point? They need a little time to settle...
#18
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
#19
Team Owner
#20
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter