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How do I break 500???

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Old Mar 4, 2016 | 10:42 AM
  #21  
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ask them to unload the dyno since its just a number you are chasing.

btw, its not the rotating assembly that would be in trouble at 8000 rpm, its the valvetrain.
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Old Mar 4, 2016 | 10:54 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by zdeckich
Do you have stock heads as well or have they been ported? Thanks for the help.
Stock unported heads.
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Old Mar 4, 2016 | 11:18 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by nskyline34
Car made 487 yesterday and I was really aiming for 500 - any ideas on how to get there? (NA no spray, that's later lol)

Callaway intake
100mm MAF
NW 102
Fast 102

56# injectors

OE rotating assy

PRC stage 2.5 heads

288/291 .605/.610 111LSA cam
Johnson short travels
Yella Terra Roller rockers
3/8" pushrods

1-3/4" LT's
high flow catted X

Borla stingers

graph was still climbing at 7k - barely, but was climbing...

Any ideas? I'm thinking about doing a forged rotating assy to spin to 7400-7500 and also bumping the compression when I do so by fly-cutting the pistons and having heads decked a bit...
Those 2 things are killing you! When you have that much overlap you need bigger headers and no cats. THE EXHAUST NEEDS TO FLOW
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Old Mar 4, 2016 | 11:55 AM
  #24  
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288/291 .605/.610 111LSA cam


Might be a bit of a issue with your drivability problem.
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Old Mar 4, 2016 | 12:07 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by radar502
Making big HP with a LS motor is easy the hard part as I see it is the hook up part the wheels braking loose at 140 MPH not fun and way hard on the seat it the pucker deal ..Just saying..
I wont drag race this car. REALLY hate the feeling of a GOOD launch- when my wallet gets to pay for any carnage. lol Car is a RR setup. BUT you are right, ET is a GREAT way to tell hp #'s. I'm just not a huge fan of it to drive in - Love helping and building, just cant handle the pressure of it actually. lol
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Old Mar 4, 2016 | 12:33 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by radar502
Making big HP with a LS motor is easy the hard part as I see it is the hook up part the wheels braking loose at 140 MPH not fun and way hard on the seat it the pucker deal ..Just saying..
Originally Posted by Scotty2000SS
Those 2 things are killing you! When you have that much overlap you need bigger headers and no cats. THE EXHAUST NEEDS TO FLOW
Originally Posted by zeevette
288/291 .605/.610 111LSA cam


Might be a bit of a issue with your drivability problem.
I'm guessing the small headers is why its 'backing up' the exhaust into the intake and causing it to die??

the cam isnt even a "max effort" cam? an MS3 and MS4 are still bigger...? BUT they usually dont have the intake setup I have this big?

Cam specs: 235/240 @ .050" and .629"/.615" with a 111 LSA (wasnt exact on the lift #'s)

So sounds like I need to order some 1-7/8" headers...?

As for the drivability - I know people run more cam than this and still can drive the car. Mine if you slow down to a stop then the R's drop and kill it OR it will almost die, bounce up and the oscillate until it dies or settles out after a few bounces of the tach...
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Old Mar 4, 2016 | 12:38 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Scotty2000SS
Those 2 things are killing you! When you have that much overlap you need bigger headers and no cats. THE EXHAUST NEEDS TO FLOW
Also the 'cats' that are on it at a joke. lol I am not as worried about those really. thy are basically a honey-comb mesh that is about 1-2" deep. lol the cross section of the cat WITH the honey comb is HUGE compared to the collectors even (which are 3"). I think you could be onto something with the primary diameter...

Machinist and I were talking last night and he thinks its the exhaust that's 'backing it up' and killing it or making it want to die. I do have a nice edge on the head-to-primary runner joint to help stop the shockwave from coming back up the header and pushing exhaust into the intake, but I think you may be right that it isnt enough area for the exhaust ot escape in time...

I have a REALLY REALLY open intake setup and a really open exhaust... obviously the restriction point will cause an upstream backup... next questions... I have 30 days to fix this issue and get the car ACTUALLY tuned... will ARH or LG super pro LT's bolt upto my TSP x-pipe...
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Old Mar 4, 2016 | 12:40 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by VGLNTE1
ask them to unload the dyno since its just a number you are chasing.

btw, its not the rotating assembly that would be in trouble at 8000 rpm, its the valvetrain.
rotating assy will come apart too - but you are correct, valvetrain will need to be addressed for 7500+ rpm. But that's after April's race
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Old Mar 4, 2016 | 01:28 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by nskyline34
Car made 487 yesterday and I was really aiming for 500 - any ideas on how to get there? (NA no spray, that's later lol)

Callaway intake
100mm MAF
NW 102
Fast 102

56# injectors

OE rotating assy

PRC stage 2.5 heads

288/291 .605/.610 111LSA cam

Johnson short travels
Yella Terra Roller rockers
3/8" pushrods

1-3/4" LT's
high flow catted X
Borla stingers

graph was still climbing at 7k - barely, but was climbing...

Any ideas? I'm thinking about doing a forged rotating assy to spin to 7400-7500 and also bumping the compression when I do so by fly-cutting the pistons and having heads decked a bit...
Originally Posted by nskyline34
I'm guessing the small headers is why its 'backing up' the exhaust into the intake and causing it to die??

the cam isnt even a "max effort" cam? an MS3 and MS4 are still bigger...? BUT they usually dont have the intake setup I have this big?

Cam specs: 235/240 @ .050" and .629"/.615" with a 111 LSA (wasnt exact on the lift #'s)

So sounds like I need to order some 1-7/8" headers...?

As for the drivability - I know people run more cam than this and still can drive the car. Mine if you slow down to a stop then the R's drop and kill it OR it will almost die, bounce up and the oscillate until it dies or settles out after a few bounces of the tach...
Ok I'm confused. You listed 2 different cam specs. If they are the second ones then you aren't giving up too much IMO.

Is the 102 ported? What clutch are you running? What wheels/tires and breaks are you running? I don't see and electric water pump or underdrive pulley listed. You can get a turn one power steering pump as well. You can hit 500 easy
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Old Mar 4, 2016 | 01:34 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Scotty2000SS
Ok I'm confused. You listed 2 different cam specs. If they are the second ones then you aren't giving up too much IMO.

Is the 102 ported? What clutch are you running? What wheels/tires and breaks are you running? I don't see and electric water pump or underdrive pulley listed. You can get a turn one power steering pump as well. You can hit 500 easy
its the second cam. I posted originally with what i could recall off hand - but that first cam was for a different build i'm doing. the second cam is for the current one in the car.

the 102 is ported yes - took out a chit load in the ports to get them to even be close to the head size.

clutch is a light weight FW, and a 9" road race setup. about overall 35% less inertia for the PP+FW+discs compared to OE

No electric water pump yet

DO have an underdrive pulley on it

NO PS pump mods - just OE

Was saving all those for next season to hopefully put me in the 520-530 range...

Trying to prove a point on this build...but not doing so well yet. lol

But yes, there are a lot of things I can do to hit 500 from here and for sure after this season I will easily jump over that mark. I'm just trying to see with my current setup what the limiting factor is. which seems like it might be rockers and header primary size.

really wondering now if the headers are the issue with the drivability deal...
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Old Mar 4, 2016 | 02:34 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by nskyline34
its the second cam. I posted originally with what i could recall off hand - but that first cam was for a different build i'm doing. the second cam is for the current one in the car.

the 102 is ported yes - took out a chit load in the ports to get them to even be close to the head size.

clutch is a light weight FW, and a 9" road race setup. about overall 35% less inertia for the PP+FW+discs compared to OE

No electric water pump yet

DO have an underdrive pulley on it

NO PS pump mods - just OE

Was saving all those for next season to hopefully put me in the 520-530 range...

Trying to prove a point on this build...but not doing so well yet. lol

But yes, there are a lot of things I can do to hit 500 from here and for sure after this season I will easily jump over that mark. I'm just trying to see with my current setup what the limiting factor is. which seems like it might be rockers and header primary size.

really wondering now if the headers are the issue with the drivability deal...
Sounds like the tune IMO. Good luck!
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Old Mar 4, 2016 | 02:58 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by Scotty2000SS
Sounds like the tune IMO. Good luck!
Tune or vac leak....

HPT shows really low vac i'm told...
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Old Mar 4, 2016 | 04:59 PM
  #33  
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It's also be easier with Trickflow heads, hand finished by Brian Tooley.
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Old Mar 6, 2016 | 11:27 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by nskyline34
Car made 487 yesterday and I was really aiming for 500 - any ideas on how to get there? (NA no spray, that's later lol)

Callaway intake
100mm MAF
NW 102
Fast 102

56# injectors

OE rotating assy

PRC stage 2.5 heads

288/291 .605/.610 111LSA cam
Johnson short travels
Yella Terra Roller rockers
3/8" pushrods

1-3/4" LT's
high flow catted X
Borla stingers

graph was still climbing at 7k - barely, but was climbing...

Any ideas? I'm thinking about doing a forged rotating assy to spin to 7400-7500 and also bumping the compression when I do so by fly-cutting the pistons and having heads decked a bit...
Go have a dyno at a different place... might see 500
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Old Mar 7, 2016 | 11:56 AM
  #35  
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Understand the goal with the stock ci
Personally if youre going to do a bottom end stroke it get Mamo to do some heads up for ya and a mildish solid roller youll be well over the 500 mark and can still cruise it on the st.
His 383 was pretty impressive- Lotsa ways to skin a cat
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Old Mar 7, 2016 | 02:06 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by cuisinartvette
Understand the goal with the stock ci
Personally if youre going to do a bottom end stroke it get Mamo to do some heads up for ya and a mildish solid roller youll be well over the 500 mark and can still cruise it on the st.
His 383 was pretty impressive- Lotsa ways to skin a cat
So funny you should mention him and a 383 - he and I discussed this exact thing lol and yes, that is now in the cards for fall, right after my last race in October motor will come out
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Old Mar 7, 2016 | 02:50 PM
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Originally Posted by cuisinartvette
Understand the goal with the stock ci
Personally if youre going to do a bottom end stroke it get Mamo to do some heads up for ya and a mildish solid roller youll be well over the 500 mark and can still cruise it on the st.
His 383 was pretty impressive- Lotsa ways to skin a cat
His 383 was solid roller
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Old Mar 7, 2016 | 02:59 PM
  #38  
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If you're planning on road course HPDE don't use EWP....they are for 1/4 mile events, street driving and others but definitely not RR

The 3/4 primaries and cats are robbing some low hanging fruit though.

If your car dies at idle you also have tune issues. The combo of FAST 102, NW 102, 100mm MAF, fairly big cam and lightweight clutch and FW are a challenge to tune....those will take time to get exactly right.
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Old Mar 7, 2016 | 03:53 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by NemesisC5
His 383 was solid roller

ridden in it.

Is the OP stuck on HR (is that the goal)
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Old Mar 7, 2016 | 07:22 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by cuisinartvette

ridden in it.

Is the OP stuck on HR (is that the goal)
Can't say for certain but I assumed so since it was never mentioned. For primarily track with some street driving and low mileage a solid would be a consideration IMO for the extra edge it provides.

Of course there's always the Freevalve option..

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