Chatmove

My crank pulley bolt keep getting loose after oil pump swap.
Is this procedure correct.
INSTALLING A NEW PULLEY.
1.Seat it between .096-.176in on crank snout
2.Use old bolt to make sure it's seated properly by torquing to 240lb-ft,measure depth again.
3.Put new bolt,torque to 37lb-ft
4.Turn 140 degrees.

dadaroo

Yes, according to my FSM.


Mr. Sam

Johnny wangwang

Step 5: Throw oem bolt away and get an ARP so you dont waste anymore money. Its $30 and reusable. Itll pay for itself if your doing your own work

leadfoot4

Chatmove

FSM?I've heard that it's different on a Corvette than on a Camaro is that true?

neutron82

arp bolt and pin the balancer to the crank, after that it should never come loose

Smoken1

Yes the ARP bolt is the best way to go

Chatmove

Is it the same torque spec/procedure with the ARP?

And is the procedure the same on a Camaro?

neutron82

arp is a more straightforward process, just torque it and be done... you don't have to torque it and stretch it "x" degrees like the stock bolt... I'm not sure of the exact torque number but it should be included with the bolt

Smoken1

ARP's website say's 235 ft lbs

Chatmove

Yes,just noticed.
So basicly I just seat the pulley between .096-.176 and torque the bolt to 235 lb-ft?No xxx degrees?

Part number 234-2503 iirc...

The head is 27mm or 1 1/16(not a big difference btw...)

lionelhutz

If you properly installed the balancer and bolt and it still came loose then I would be pinning the balancer when I put the new bolt in. The most likely cause of a properly installed balancer and bolt coming loose is not having the proper interference fit.

SG Lou

Yep, that's all there is to it

Chatmove

When I re-installed it after the oil pump swap,I didn't measured the depth,put a new bolt and used an impact to tighten it...Rookie mistake I know.I'm pretty sure I have NOT damaged the thread because it still took quite a while before it got loose.

EDIT
Called my local speed shop and they said ARP pulley bolt is back order till May 5th so I'm going the OEM way...
I have no angle meter can some1 tell me a good way to measure 140 degrees(where to mark,etc)

Thanks everyone.

Smoken1

Try here
http://www.jegs.com/i/ARP/070/234-2503/10002/-1

lionelhutz

You could have posted you didn't install it right the first time.

Anyways, if the bolt came loose and the damper has spun on the crank then the interference fit is definitely screwed up so I would pin it for sure. Make sure it does fit tight on the crank.

Rob 02

It is a lot of torque. I did the 140deg method and I had to use my jack stand handle on a breaker bar to get it that tight.

If you try to use a good torque wrench that only goes to 250 you may trash it. Be careful.

SG Lou

The way I have done it is this: Once the torque wrench clicks off the desired torque setting bring the wrench to the 12 o clock position. That's point zero, 3 o clock position would be 90, 6 o clock would be 180, etc, etc. Ya with me so far?
Pull down on the wrench handle until it lines up on your imaginary clock face between 4 and 5 o clock. That "should" put you in the ball park.
Or you can purchase on of these :

http://www.nationaltoolwarehouse.com...80caAmCn8P8HAQ

BTW: look at the dial face on the picture and see where 140 degrees falls.....between the 4 and 5 o clock position

vettenuts

This is correct. That assembly is likely toast without a pin. Also, if you go ARP, then the ARP bolt is installed after tightening the old bolt to 240 lb-ft, not before. It's installation replaces the new GM bolt step of the installation.

How did you press on the new balancer? Hope you didn't pull it on with a bolt, a.k.a., ls1howto.com

leadfoot4

OOPS..............all I did was draw the balancer (ATI) on with the Hawk installation tool, and tighten the APR bolt to 240 ft/lbs. I didn't use the old bolt at all......