YALLP - Yet Another Line Lock Post
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 1,763
Likes: 24
From: Austin TX
YALLP - Yet Another Line Lock Post
I finally installed my Hurst line lock.
I bought the line lock and generic install kit from Summit. I didnt want to cut any of the stock lines, so I could easily put it back to stock later. Another goal of my install was no drilling in the frame to mount the line lock.
The local Napa was able to get me Weatherhead PN 7936. This adapts the 12mm fittings on our C5's to use the 3/16 standard double flare line that comes with the install kit. One of these was used at the proportioning valve, and another at the ABS unit.
I wanted to mount it on the stud that holds the washer fluid reservoir next to the frame rail. I bought a 4'x2"x1/16" piece of aluminum from Lowes and cut it down to about 4-5" long, put an approximate 45 bend in one end, rounded the edges on that end and drilled a 1/4" mounting hole. I then drilled three holes for the Hurst supplied screws to mount the solenoid valve to my plate. I then attached the valve to the plate with two screws towards the top near the bend in the mounting bracket.
Because the other end of the mounting plate could rub against the frame, I found a 2" piece of 3/8 water hose in my garage and cut a slit down the length. I slid this over the straight end of my mounting bracket nearest the frame, through the third mounting hole and the line lock I ran a wire tie to hold the hose in place.
At this point the self tapping screws holding the line lock to the bracket were too long and wouldnt fit in position. I took my angle grinder and cut these down almost flush to the mounting bracket.
For the brake lines I used a tubing bender I bought from summit for $20. It is not made for 3/16 lines but works pretty well for it. Each bend was made with it, but required tweaking by hand.
In the install kit there was a short line, and two equal length longer brake lines. I used the shortest line between the ABS unit and the line lock. It was actually too long, but I did not want to cut and flare my line, so I bent it down, then 180 degrees to bring it back up, and about 45 degees into the Hurst.
Connecting the line lock to the proportioning valve below the master cylinder was a little easier. I just took one of the longer lines, starting at the line lock and made the appropriate bends to run it next to the frame rail.
After that I bled the front brakes using a Mighty-vac, checked for leaks and took a little test drive.
Electric was pretty straight forward, I wont even get into it here, because my current button install is temporary.
The above ramblings will make more sense after looking at the pictures below.
Eric
I bought the line lock and generic install kit from Summit. I didnt want to cut any of the stock lines, so I could easily put it back to stock later. Another goal of my install was no drilling in the frame to mount the line lock.
The local Napa was able to get me Weatherhead PN 7936. This adapts the 12mm fittings on our C5's to use the 3/16 standard double flare line that comes with the install kit. One of these was used at the proportioning valve, and another at the ABS unit.
I wanted to mount it on the stud that holds the washer fluid reservoir next to the frame rail. I bought a 4'x2"x1/16" piece of aluminum from Lowes and cut it down to about 4-5" long, put an approximate 45 bend in one end, rounded the edges on that end and drilled a 1/4" mounting hole. I then drilled three holes for the Hurst supplied screws to mount the solenoid valve to my plate. I then attached the valve to the plate with two screws towards the top near the bend in the mounting bracket.
Because the other end of the mounting plate could rub against the frame, I found a 2" piece of 3/8 water hose in my garage and cut a slit down the length. I slid this over the straight end of my mounting bracket nearest the frame, through the third mounting hole and the line lock I ran a wire tie to hold the hose in place.
At this point the self tapping screws holding the line lock to the bracket were too long and wouldnt fit in position. I took my angle grinder and cut these down almost flush to the mounting bracket.
For the brake lines I used a tubing bender I bought from summit for $20. It is not made for 3/16 lines but works pretty well for it. Each bend was made with it, but required tweaking by hand.
In the install kit there was a short line, and two equal length longer brake lines. I used the shortest line between the ABS unit and the line lock. It was actually too long, but I did not want to cut and flare my line, so I bent it down, then 180 degrees to bring it back up, and about 45 degees into the Hurst.
Connecting the line lock to the proportioning valve below the master cylinder was a little easier. I just took one of the longer lines, starting at the line lock and made the appropriate bends to run it next to the frame rail.
After that I bled the front brakes using a Mighty-vac, checked for leaks and took a little test drive.
Electric was pretty straight forward, I wont even get into it here, because my current button install is temporary.
The above ramblings will make more sense after looking at the pictures below.
Eric
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