hper turn signals
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 101
Likes: 2
hper turn signals
I broke the stay on switch on my hazard switch (had to hold button in for them to flash). I had it repaired or replaced, don't know what they did. The 4 way now works fine, normal blinking, however now my turn signals go into hyper flashing. No bulbs are out. I took it back, but they don't seem to know what it is. They are going to check, but I would like to have an idea what they will be talking about. Thanks
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 101
Likes: 2
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 3,534
Likes: 432
From: Atlantic Beach FL.
The flash is in the switch. What ever they did, was wrong. They may have replaced the switch with a defective one. You would think they would check first.
Mechanics that don't have experience with Vette's shouldn't be working on them IMO. I wouldn't want someone getting their learning experience by experimenting on my car.
I hope they work it out for you.
Mechanics that don't have experience with Vette's shouldn't be working on them IMO. I wouldn't want someone getting their learning experience by experimenting on my car.
I hope they work it out for you.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 101
Likes: 2
hyper flash
The flash is in the switch. What ever they did, was wrong. They may have replaced the switch with a defective one. You would think they would check first.
Mechanics that don't have experience with Vette's shouldn't be working on them IMO. I wouldn't want someone getting their learning experience by experimenting on my car.
I hope they work it out for you.
Mechanics that don't have experience with Vette's shouldn't be working on them IMO. I wouldn't want someone getting their learning experience by experimenting on my car.
I hope they work it out for you.
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 1,496
Likes: 353
From: Little Rock Arkansas
Per what Rob said above, the flash mechanism itself has operation that is part of the hazard switch. Because of this, even when the switch itself is not pressed or used you are still getting current through it from the activation of the multi-switch (your turn signal/head lamp stalk) and brake lamps, which combined with the heat from the dash and electricals is what eventually begins to wear the switch down. There are plenty of good reference shots online of switches that have near-melted contacts from the heat. It's not the most ideal design since so much load traverses through the relative tiny body of the switch and any definitive issues can be difficult to pin-point.
I'll be honest I'm not exactly sure why you would have it "repaired" since the switches are relatively cheap - at the most it's a $30 part. When you buy the switch you get just the switch body itself; the old button is re-used. The biggest hic-up always seems to be people are daunted by taking their dash apart. It can be a chore to get the switch body out of the HVAC housing but it's do-able within an hour or two of work by yourself.
I'll be honest I'm not exactly sure why you would have it "repaired" since the switches are relatively cheap - at the most it's a $30 part. When you buy the switch you get just the switch body itself; the old button is re-used. The biggest hic-up always seems to be people are daunted by taking their dash apart. It can be a chore to get the switch body out of the HVAC housing but it's do-able within an hour or two of work by yourself.
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 3,534
Likes: 432
From: Atlantic Beach FL.
I guess anyone can make a mistake. It is hard to be familiar with every problem the car could have. Here you have the benefit of everyone's experience.
Team Owner
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 21,766
Likes: 25
From: The artist formally known as NONO5.0 Mobile, Al
This may sound a little crazy, but mine will RARELY do what you are describing....the way I fix it is to firmly (but not too hard) hit the dash JUST above the hazard switch a couple of times or so, and it usually goes away 
I've only had to do it a handful of times since it became an issue about 2 years ago...but, hey, it does the trick 
(which of course, if that does work for you DEFINITELY means the switch is the issue) 
I've only had to do it a handful of times since it became an issue about 2 years ago...but, hey, it does the trick (which of course, if that does work for you DEFINITELY means the switch is the issue)
Last edited by at88mph; Dec 9, 2016 at 06:34 PM.
Corvette Stories
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Top 10 Most Explosive Corvettes Ever Made: Power-to-Weight Ratio Ranked!
Joe Kucinski
150 hp to 1,250 hp: Every Corvette Generation Compared by the Specs That Matter
Joe Kucinski
8 Coolest Corvette Pace Cars (and Replicas) of All Time
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Corvette Engines RANKED by Peak Torque (70+ Years of Muscle!)
Joe Kucinski
Corvette ZR1X Will Be Pacing the Indy 500, And Could Probably Race, Too!
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Corvettes Coming to Mecum Indy 2026!
Brett Foote
Top 10 C9 Corvette MUST-HAVES to Fix These C8 Generation Flaws!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Revolutionary 'Corvette Firsts' Most People Don't Know
Joe Kucinski
5 Reasons to Upgrade to an LS6-Powered Corvette; 5 Reasons to Stay LT2
Michael S. Palmer
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 101
Likes: 2
I thank everyone for their input. I went back to them today and at least sounded that I knew what I was talking about. We both agreed that, since it was a new switch (not repaired) that it was probably bad. They ordered a new one. I feel a little sorry for them since I have read what is involved with installing again. However, I would have tried it before putting everything back together. But that's probably because I'm a novice and wouldn't want to do it again. I will try that hit the dash above it, just for the heck of it, but will let them put a new one in. By the way, Velocity Vette was right, they charged me 2 hours. Anyway, I'm good to go.