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Hey guys does this look dot to dot?? I just checked the intake centerline and its way off. Just tryin to confirm that my cam is spot on. Sorry to waste a thread but..ya know..its kinda important lol. Its a massive pic but..gotta have that resolution
Thanks,
Ben Marino
Last edited by bmarino1974; Dec 31, 2016 at 01:45 PM.
Thanks guys, that's what I thought as well.. Seems like my intake centerline is off by 2 degrees then! Glad I decided to degree my cam, and here I thought it was a waste of time.
I haven't heard of many comp cams grinds being off by that much, or maybe I haven't looked hard enough.
Also, for anyone installing comp cams xer287hr camshaft with 243 heads milled 0.010...you will have to fly cut the pistons..intake valve makes contact with piston..exhaust is at most 0.015 clearance..
FYI for those like me who couldn't find much info on this cam..
how did you tell the intake centerline was off? did that require the cam timing tool to determine?
Yeah I purchased the LS degree kit from comp. I was just gonna install the cam without checking but figured I should at least check while I was waiting on some other parts to come in. I literally checked 6 times and still measured a 108.25 intake centerline. Comp recommended a 110. So now I'm getting an adjustable timing gear.
Yeah I purchased the LS degree kit from comp. I was just gonna install the cam without checking but figured I should at least check while I was waiting on some other parts to come in. I literally checked 6 times and still measured a 108.25 intake centerline. Comp recommended a 110. So now I'm getting an adjustable timing gear.
Smart man. I always degree cams whenever I install them. You would be surprised how many I have done that were off and it helps tremendously when chasing any issues. It's more crucial now then it was back in the carbed engines from what I have seen. I remember installing a Comp 305 cam in my LT1 and we scratched our heads why it was running like crap until we took the cam back out and degreed it and found the grind was off by 2 degrees We sent it back to Comp and the next one they sent was off by 4 One more sent and it was spot on. The only cams we had very few issues with were Lunati, Summit, Howard, and Isky. Those were well within the limits.
Smart man. I always degree cams whenever I install them. You would be surprised how many I have done that were off and it helps tremendously when chasing any issues. It's more crucial now then it was back in the carbed engines from what I have seen. I remember installing a Comp 305 cam in my LT1 and we scratched our heads why it was running like crap until we took the cam back out and degreed it and found the grind was off by 2 degrees We sent it back to Comp and the next one they sent was off by 4 One more sent and it was spot on. The only cams we had very few issues with were Lunati, Summit, Howard, and Isky. Those were well within the limits.
Yeah they ought to start checking the cam profiles before they leave the door, but then we'd have to pay more I guess. But if you consider the cost of a degree kit and a bad cam..it'd save us some money in the long run. Comp would lose some though...no more degree kits would be bought if there was a guarantee of a perfect fit cam.
It is rather exact if you have the cam card and a cam degree kit.
Competition Cams should start selling a spec-your-own camshaft kit..with a varying centerline cam, cam card and have the degree kit not included with purchase...
you should really look into how to degree your cam into place..the dot to dot will work but to get the most out of your cam you really should degree it
Dot to Dot puts a lot of faith that the cam is ground exactly with what the manufacturer intended. CamMotion and Comp seem to have this under control currently but that is not to say you won't find something off.
Further the factory timing chain set leaves very little room to adjust, you would really need an adjustable timing set to correct it if it is off.
I had a friend degree mine in but it was on a engine stand and the prior owner installed a Cloyes Hex Adjust timing set which meant I pretty much had to degree it. We did camshaft swap on a friend's FRC in the car and went dot to dot. He is on the the factory timing chain gears and a LS2 chain.
Car is back together and running perfect. I degreed my cam and used and adjustable timing gear. All is well, thanks for the replies.
And just a side note. If you need a tune, hit up steve at EFI Performance (previously "tuned by frost"). Emailed me a calibration and my car literally idled and drove without a hitch. Great guy and cares about his customers.
Ben Marino
Last edited by bmarino1974; Jan 11, 2017 at 10:47 AM.
Car is back together and running perfect. I degreed my cam and used and adjustable timing gear. All is well, thanks for the replies.
And just a side note. If you need a tune, hit up steve at EFI Performance (previously "tuned by frost"). Emailed me a calibration and my car literally idled and drove without a hitch. Great guy and cares about his customers.
Car is back together and running perfect. I degreed my cam and used and adjustable timing gear. All is well, thanks for the replies.
And just a side note. If you need a tune, hit up steve at EFI Performance (previously "tuned by frost"). Emailed me a calibration and my car literally idled and drove without a hitch. Great guy and cares about his customers.
Ben Marino
He emailed them to you? What the actual hell? I've tried emailing him 4 different times in the last 2 years about my damn truck and he never got back to me.. I went with TSP instead.. Free re-tunes for a year..
And just to be clear, Steve tuned my Camaro and my C5 Corvette... That bummed me out
Last edited by GoldenFlame; Jan 11, 2017 at 08:04 PM.
Hey guys one more thing somewhat unrelated. Are you supposed to be able to collapse the lifter by hand? I believe not. Some input please guys. Pretty sure I collapsed a ton of lifters. A few of them have a spongy feel when pushing down on the pushrod. I got the standard 7.4 pushrods but obviously they are too long (I think).