Sloppy steering wheel
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Sloppy steering wheel
I have been fighting a sloppy steering feeling for a long time now. It's not really noticeable at lower speed 80 and under but 100+ it starts to get really noticeable and very scary. It feels like the wheels are moving but the steering wheel isn't moving and I can feel the wheels moving through the steering wheel but the steering wheel not moving (if that makes sense). So there is slack somewhere I think.
Replaced parts:
Power steering pump (1year old)
Power steering reservoir
Sway bar end links (factory metal ones)
Sway bar bushings (poly)
Power steering rack bushing (factory but just ordered a DRM one because it was $40)
Tie rods (moog)
C6z shocks
Alignment has been done to PFADT specs
I think that is everything I have replaced.
The only other thing I can think of is the intermediate shaft. Am I missing anything else that could possibly cause this issue?
Thanks guys!
Edit:
I will update my first post but the steering isn't constantly very sensitive in fact it isn't sensitive it's more the front wheels don't seem to be 100% attached to the steering wheel. Another example is when going around a corner every now and again the car will just start turning a tad sharper and my steering wheel input has not changed at all.
Replaced parts:
Power steering pump (1year old)
Power steering reservoir
Sway bar end links (factory metal ones)
Sway bar bushings (poly)
Power steering rack bushing (factory but just ordered a DRM one because it was $40)
Tie rods (moog)
C6z shocks
Alignment has been done to PFADT specs
I think that is everything I have replaced.
The only other thing I can think of is the intermediate shaft. Am I missing anything else that could possibly cause this issue?
Thanks guys!
Edit:
I will update my first post but the steering isn't constantly very sensitive in fact it isn't sensitive it's more the front wheels don't seem to be 100% attached to the steering wheel. Another example is when going around a corner every now and again the car will just start turning a tad sharper and my steering wheel input has not changed at all.
Last edited by Ls2gtoowner; 02-13-2017 at 01:36 PM.
#2
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St. Jude Donor '08
Wheel bearings????????????????? Check FRONT AND REAR Wheel Hub bearings!!!
Steering rack shaft to Steering Column shaft coupler loose???????????? Very common issue.
Bill
Steering rack shaft to Steering Column shaft coupler loose???????????? Very common issue.
Bill
#3
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
Wheel bearings????????????????? Check FRONT AND REAR Wheel Hub bearings!!!
Steering rack shaft to Steering Column shaft coupler loose???????????? Very common issue.
Bill
Steering rack shaft to Steering Column shaft coupler loose???????????? Very common issue.
Bill
Are you talking about the coupler that's the 13mm from the rack to the intermediate shaft? If so yes that is plenty tight the service manual says 25ft lbs if I remember correctly and it's is that and then some.
#4
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by 8VETTE7
Is it possible there is a problem with the GM MagnaSteer on the rack?
The idea of MagnaSteer is increased assist at low speed and reduced assist at higher speed. Perhaps the maximum assist is occurring always?
http://www.cadillacfaq.com/faq/answers/pwrsteer.html
Article above is from a Cadillac source but MagnaSteer also applies to the C5 Corvette.
There may be a code produced if the MagnaSteer fails???
The idea of MagnaSteer is increased assist at low speed and reduced assist at higher speed. Perhaps the maximum assist is occurring always?
http://www.cadillacfaq.com/faq/answers/pwrsteer.html
Article above is from a Cadillac source but MagnaSteer also applies to the C5 Corvette.
There may be a code produced if the MagnaSteer fails???
I don't think this is my issue and I will update my first post but the steering isn't constantly very sensitive in fact it isn't sensitive it's more the front wheels don't seem to be 100% attached to the steering wheel. Another example is when going around a corner every now and again the car will just start turning a tad sharper and my steering wheel input has not changed at all.
#5
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St. Jude Donor '08
The fact that the coupler bolt is TIGHT doesn't mean that its secure.
Like I stated, have someone move the steering wheel slightly left and right and look for SLOP in a joint or an assembly.
Like I stated, have someone move the steering wheel slightly left and right and look for SLOP in a joint or an assembly.
#6
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
The fact that the coupler bolt is TIGHT doesn't mean that its secure.
Like I stated, have someone move the steering wheel slightly left and right and look for SLOP in a joint or an assembly.
Like I stated, have someone move the steering wheel slightly left and right and look for SLOP in a joint or an assembly.
#7
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Little update I had my dad move the steering wheel around and there is a definite clicking coming from the intermediate shaft. For the love of god I really hope that is it!
#8
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Car feels better after a new intermediate shaft! 260 bucks later It isn't perfect but feels better. While I was looking at stuff I noticed that my Hinson engine on the passenger side was bubbled and blistered from the heat. I am wondering if the heat and the motor mount messed up a little bit has compromised the motor mount. Thoughts?
#9
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St. Jude Donor '08
Car feels better after a new intermediate shaft! 260 bucks later It isn't perfect but feels better. While I was looking at stuff I noticed that my Hinson engine on the passenger side was bubbled and blistered from the heat. I am wondering if the heat and the motor mount messed up a little bit has compromised the motor mount. Thoughts?
QUOTE" "I noticed that my Hinson engine on the passenger side was bubbled and blistered from the heat"
I hope you just wanted to say the engine MOUNT.
GM covered their stock oil filled mounts with an insulation. As thin as it was, it helped to deflect the heat. Might want to consider adding a simple foil covered canvas shield just to deflect some of the heat.
Bill
#10
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
Any way to post a picture of that old intermediate shaft? It may help someone in the future.
QUOTE" "I noticed that my Hinson engine on the passenger side was bubbled and blistered from the heat"
I hope you just wanted to say the engine MOUNT.
GM covered their stock oil filled mounts with an insulation. As thin as it was, it helped to deflect the heat. Might want to consider adding a simple foil covered canvas shield just to deflect some of the heat.
Bill
QUOTE" "I noticed that my Hinson engine on the passenger side was bubbled and blistered from the heat"
I hope you just wanted to say the engine MOUNT.
GM covered their stock oil filled mounts with an insulation. As thin as it was, it helped to deflect the heat. Might want to consider adding a simple foil covered canvas shield just to deflect some of the heat.
Bill
I did mean just the mount haha thank you! I am going to add something to deflect the heat but I am wondering if the current motor mount is messed up because it was damaged by the heat. Thinking maybe the front end feels loose because the motor is loose? Idk just a thought.
#11
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St. Jude Donor '08
Well,,,,,, An engine mount normally has nothing to do with suspension alignment or accuracy.
Even though it looks normal, just seeing a picture of the shaft may help someone see what you are talking about.
Yes,, Heat is very bad for any rubber/poly component.
Bill
Even though it looks normal, just seeing a picture of the shaft may help someone see what you are talking about.
Yes,, Heat is very bad for any rubber/poly component.
Bill