May have found a FIX..Wiper cowl rubber seal
#1
Safety Car
Thread Starter
May have found a FIX..Wiper cowl rubber seal
Some, most....are plagued with the rubber seal pulling up from the wiper cowl. Can't get replacement rubber, have to buy a complete cowl..
Being I'm stuck in work today I decided to pull the car in and "Tinker" with it. As i was cleaning engine bay I glanced over and saw this :
So I thought to myself...there's GOT TO BE A WAY...Then it dawned on me !
We have this stuff here in work...industrial strength CA Glue :
Added a drop, pushed rubber down to edge of cowl and held it for a couple of minutes....then repeat process working my way from left to right.
All cleaned up !
Washed the beast cause it was dirty !
It held up in the wash....I'll keep an eye on this and report back from time to time to let everyone know if it's holding up !
BTW: Sorry for the huge pictures....don't have a program here on work P/C to reduce size. If there is I sure as hell don't know about it !
Being I'm stuck in work today I decided to pull the car in and "Tinker" with it. As i was cleaning engine bay I glanced over and saw this :
So I thought to myself...there's GOT TO BE A WAY...Then it dawned on me !
We have this stuff here in work...industrial strength CA Glue :
Added a drop, pushed rubber down to edge of cowl and held it for a couple of minutes....then repeat process working my way from left to right.
All cleaned up !
Washed the beast cause it was dirty !
It held up in the wash....I'll keep an eye on this and report back from time to time to let everyone know if it's holding up !
BTW: Sorry for the huge pictures....don't have a program here on work P/C to reduce size. If there is I sure as hell don't know about it !
Last edited by SG Lou; 04-16-2017 at 11:18 AM.
#2
Burning Brakes
Member Since: Jul 2011
Location: Fredericksburg Virginia
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Great info! I used gorilla glue and took mine apart, removed that old tape, cleaned up both seal and cowl, then glued them together. They have held up for 2 years so far. Hope it lasts for a while longer and will remember your method for next time.
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ArmchairArchitect (05-16-2017)
#3
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Thanks for posting this fix. It's sure to help a lot of owners out.
#8
Pro
#10
A little tip for work with super glue.
You can make those super glue welds much stronger with baking soda - NOT JOKING.
After you do that initial attachment take a coffee stirrer (or similar) and scoop a small amount of baking soda.
Drop the bk-soda in the space to be strengthened, or on either side of the initial weld.
Put a small amount of super glue on the soda. The soda will quickly soak up the glue like a sponge.
You end up with a very tough and strong bond that is like a crust. Can be sanded, filed, cut and shaped.
This is one of my favorite tricks for plastic repair.
Hope that helps someone here.
You can make those super glue welds much stronger with baking soda - NOT JOKING.
After you do that initial attachment take a coffee stirrer (or similar) and scoop a small amount of baking soda.
Drop the bk-soda in the space to be strengthened, or on either side of the initial weld.
Put a small amount of super glue on the soda. The soda will quickly soak up the glue like a sponge.
You end up with a very tough and strong bond that is like a crust. Can be sanded, filed, cut and shaped.
This is one of my favorite tricks for plastic repair.
Hope that helps someone here.
The following users liked this post:
ArmchairArchitect (05-16-2017)
#11
Safety Car
Thread Starter
A little tip for work with super glue.
You can make those super glue welds much stronger with baking soda - NOT JOKING.
After you do that initial attachment take a coffee stirrer (or similar) and scoop a small amount of baking soda.
Drop the bk-soda in the space to be strengthened, or on either side of the initial weld.
Put a small amount of super glue on the soda. The soda will quickly soak up the glue like a sponge.
You end up with a very tough and strong bond that is like a crust. Can be sanded, filed, cut and shaped.
This is one of my favorite tricks for plastic repair.
Hope that helps someone here.
You can make those super glue welds much stronger with baking soda - NOT JOKING.
After you do that initial attachment take a coffee stirrer (or similar) and scoop a small amount of baking soda.
Drop the bk-soda in the space to be strengthened, or on either side of the initial weld.
Put a small amount of super glue on the soda. The soda will quickly soak up the glue like a sponge.
You end up with a very tough and strong bond that is like a crust. Can be sanded, filed, cut and shaped.
This is one of my favorite tricks for plastic repair.
Hope that helps someone here.
I have used this stuff for repairing worn out or broken mounting holes on various pieces of my dash and center console...great stuff !
Works on the same principal as crazy glue and baking soda
#12
Team Owner
Good Tip!!
I was looking at the same part on my car, a couple of days ago, and the rubber has been pulling away for a while. I was thinking of using RTV.
I was looking at the same part on my car, a couple of days ago, and the rubber has been pulling away for a while. I was thinking of using RTV.
#13
been using this trick for years....I build, repair and customize guitars and when I get a worn slot on the string nut I build up the slot with CA and baking soda and re-cut it to it's proper depth. Works like a dream !
I have used this stuff for repairing worn out or broken mounting holes on various pieces of my dash and center console...great stuff !
Works on the same principal as crazy glue and baking soda
I have used this stuff for repairing worn out or broken mounting holes on various pieces of my dash and center console...great stuff !
Works on the same principal as crazy glue and baking soda
Anyway, is there any difference between the powder in that kit vs. baking soda?
#14
Safety Car
Thread Starter
To be honest I think the Q Bond powder is nothing more then colored baking soda but I could be wrong. It does seem to harden up much quicker then baking soda so it might be different. Maybe something added to the powder to react better with the CA Glue ?...I dunno
#15
I ran into the same problem with the seal having shrunk. I just couldn't get any adhesive to hold it. After staring at it for a bit I came up with a solution. I bought an 18 foot roll of door edge trim for $9 at Walmart.
The following 5 users liked this post by reddawg52:
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TastyBacon (05-15-2017)
#16
Basically I tore off the original seal and placed this seal in it's place. It looks great and I couldn't be happier with a $9 fix. The pictures don't do it justice. https://www.walmart.com/ip/Auto-Driv...Black/36065978
#17
Sometimes one can look at the MSDS sheet and get more insight into the ingredients. I haven't tried that for this product, but it might be helpful.
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SG Lou (05-17-2017)
#18
Pro
If you look closely at the stock set up, the rubber strip has a leg that is supposed to lock onto the channel on the cowl. Then there is a strip of adhesive tape that is placed over both to lock them together. What happens over time is that tape disintegrates, and eventually the rubber strip pops off.
So I removed my rubber strip and cleaned it good. I also removed the wiper arms and the cowl. I then cleaned the cowl good, reinstalled the rubber strip, then bought some black 1/4" pinstripe to lock them together, just how it was done stock. Worked great.
Then I took some time to wipe down the entire cowl with Armadillo and water, and make it look like new again. Reinstalled, and it came out perfect.
Imho, the problem with superglue and the like is, it's messy and very hard to get a clean result. And, there is a chance you could damage the part(s) as well, making it harder next time around.
So I removed my rubber strip and cleaned it good. I also removed the wiper arms and the cowl. I then cleaned the cowl good, reinstalled the rubber strip, then bought some black 1/4" pinstripe to lock them together, just how it was done stock. Worked great.
Then I took some time to wipe down the entire cowl with Armadillo and water, and make it look like new again. Reinstalled, and it came out perfect.
Imho, the problem with superglue and the like is, it's messy and very hard to get a clean result. And, there is a chance you could damage the part(s) as well, making it harder next time around.
Last edited by mrmagloo; 05-15-2017 at 05:52 PM.
#19
If you look closely at the stock set up, the rubber strip has a leg that is supposed to lock onto the channel on the cowl. Then there is a strip of adhesive tape that is placed over both to lock them together. What happens over time is that tape disintegrates, and eventually the rubber strip pops off.
So I removed my rubber strip and cleaned it good. I also removed the wiper arms and the cowl. I then cleaned the cowl good, reinstalled the rubber strip, then bought some black 1/4" pinstripe to lock them together, just how it was done stock. Worked great.
Then I took some time to wipe down the entire cowl with Armadillo and water, and make it look like new again. Reinstalled, and it came out perfect.
Imho, the problem with superglue and the like is, it's messy and very hard to get a clean result. And, there is a chance you could damage the part(s) as well, making it harder next time around.
So I removed my rubber strip and cleaned it good. I also removed the wiper arms and the cowl. I then cleaned the cowl good, reinstalled the rubber strip, then bought some black 1/4" pinstripe to lock them together, just how it was done stock. Worked great.
Then I took some time to wipe down the entire cowl with Armadillo and water, and make it look like new again. Reinstalled, and it came out perfect.
Imho, the problem with superglue and the like is, it's messy and very hard to get a clean result. And, there is a chance you could damage the part(s) as well, making it harder next time around.
But where can I get some non-messy Armadillo?
#20
Pro
Actually, it's easiest to find a fresh road kill.
Seriously, I should have been clearer. The stuff is Armor-Dillo TS-1, which is GM spec'd for all of the plastic cladding on the original Avalanche that was constantly fading. It comes in little plastic packs and you just wipe the object quickly, then follow that up with a water wet rag and it makes it look like new. Great stuff.
Seriously, I should have been clearer. The stuff is Armor-Dillo TS-1, which is GM spec'd for all of the plastic cladding on the original Avalanche that was constantly fading. It comes in little plastic packs and you just wipe the object quickly, then follow that up with a water wet rag and it makes it look like new. Great stuff.