When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
After 66k miles and 13 years my passenger side window regulator crapped out for good. Purchased a AC Delco unit along with the MUST HAVE replacement plug/pigtail as the design changed.
New plug on left, old one on the right :
Here is the part number for the new plug:
I cut the old plug off, stripped back about a 1/4 inch of insulation off of the factory wires, cut about 4 inches off the pigtail and stripped off a 1/4 inch of of those as well. Before i did anything else I twisted the wires together and started the car up to make sure the polarity was right so when you push the down button the window goes down and not up !
Now butt connectors are supplied with the new pigtail but I soldered the wires and heat shrink wrapped them. Wrapped some black electrical tape around the wires and called that part a done deal.
Aside from having your tilt in /out adjustment there is a jack screw on each window clamp, left and right. These jack screw set the stop travel of the assembly. Once you have the window clamped into place, temporally plug in your switch, raise the glass up until it hits the stops and close the door. Take note as to where the top edge of the glass rests against the weather stripping. if you have a gap or it doesn't look like the edge of the window comes to rest where it originally did, you adjust those jack bolt with a 1/4 inch drive wrench and a 7mm socket. I adjusted them, a 1/2 a turn at a time bringing the jack bolt down and ran the window back up. By turning the bolt clock wise you decrease the distance between the bumper on the end of the bolt, allowing it to rise farther up. Adjusted each one twice and the window stopped exactly where it was originally, as set from the factory:
LEFT SIDE JACK BOLT
RIGHT SIDE JACK BOLT
Not really pertaining to the regulator job but check out crack on the left side mounting boss...this is where the 2 screws go into to hold the door panel on . I flowed some CA Glue into the cracks. Hope it helps
And last but not least.................MAKE SURE you replace your moisture barrier and plug your door speaker back in BEFORE you totally finsh buttoning up the door panel....
Nice job. I replaced mine last summer WITHOUT knowing that the plug changed on the newer part, and had to special order a plug, then solder it on. THEN, I put it all back together WITHOUT checking polarity, and sure enough the down switch made it go up. Sure learned a lesson that day.
This is great timing on the connector info. My passenger side went out a couple weeks ago. I would have been upset to get the new one in and not be able to plug the dang thing in.
Nice job. I replaced mine last summer WITHOUT knowing that the plug changed on the newer part, and had to special order a plug, then solder it on. THEN, I put it all back together WITHOUT checking polarity, and sure enough the down switch made it go up. Sure learned a lesson that day.
Nice job. I replaced mine last summer WITHOUT knowing that the plug changed on the newer part, and had to special order a plug, then solder it on. THEN, I put it all back together WITHOUT checking polarity, and sure enough the down switch made it go up. Sure learned a lesson that day.
I too learned the hard way, but it happened when I did my Silverado a few years ago. It wasn't a plug issue but the way the aftermarket motor was wound.
If you have a tool for removing pins can you just swap the two wires or is the harness a completely different fitment?
Rob, are you referring to Kustombox's comment or commenting on removing the pins from the old style plug and putting them into the new plug ? If it is the latter then the pins between the two plugs are entirely different and can't be swapped.
SG Lou. I think I got confused somewhere in the advice given. So at this point I am assuming that the plugs are completely different and may have a reverse polarity.
I am doing a speaker install with sound deadening next week so I will have the doors taken apart. My window regulators aren't working as good as they should so I thought it would be the best time to replace them.
SG Lou. I think I got confused somewhere in the advice given. So at this point I am assuming that the plugs are completely different and may have a reverse polarity.
I am doing a speaker install with sound deadening next week so I will have the doors taken apart. My window regulators aren't working as good as they should so I thought it would be the best time to replace them.
Thanks.
Ok I see where your going with this. You won't know if you have the wrong polarity until you wire it up. Also, it's actually the switch that reverses the polarity going to the wires. That is why it's always good to do a dry run / test to make sure it functions properly before any permanent connections of the wires are done. You could crimp a male / female blade type connector to each wire and this way if the polarity is wrong then it's just a matter of unplugging and swapping the leads. I opted to test first and then solder for a more permanent / better connection.
Great write up. You do need the gm pig tail after 2002. I know for shure 2001
Joe, I got an 04 and the pigtail was needed so I guess the answer is yes.
On a side note: I was flipping through the latest Ecklers C5 catalog and they list the pigtail as.....
1997-02 Power Window Wiring Harness Connector, Required when installing a new window regulator.
A design change in the electrical connection by GM makes installing the new regulator in a early C5 needing this connector.
Yet as you can see in the picture i posted, the difference between the old connector i cut off and it's replacement and like I said, I have an 04
SG Lou
Nice work on your write-up there. I have spent a good bit of time fiddling with those fiddly adjustments. My car is a 2001 'vert and I had this small gap at the top of the window. The rain found that gap every time.
I think I have it whipped now, but it sure took a few tries.
Joe, I got an 04 and the pigtail was needed so I guess the answer is yes.
On a side note: I was flipping through the latest Ecklers C5 catalog and they list the pigtail as.....
1997-02 Power Window Wiring Harness Connector, Required when installing a new window regulator.
A design change in the electrical connection by GM makes installing the new regulator in a early C5 needing this connector.
Yet as you can see in the picture i posted, the difference between the old connector i cut off and it's replacement and like I said, I have an 04
I just received the replacement regulator, NOT KNOWING I needed a new connector, because the description of the replacement regulator says, OEM FORM, FIT and FUNCTION. That is an outright LIE! I now have my car (2003) apart, waiting on the connector to arrive so I can put it back together.
On a side note, I ordered a aftermarket replacement (for about 1/3 the price) and it installed perfectly, WITH the correct connector. HOWEVER, it DIED before I could even properly adjust the window height, thus I ordered the AC/Delco part. It didn't last 5 minutes!
Last edited by nwalker; 05-06-2017 at 08:36 PM.
Reason: add detail
I just received the replacement regulator, NOT KNOWING I needed a new connector, because the description of the replacement regulator says, OEM FORM, FIT and FUNCTION. That is an outright LIE! I now have my car (2003) apart, waiting on the connector to arrive so I can put it back together.
On a side note, I ordered a aftermarket replacement (for about 1/3 the price) and it installed perfectly, WITH the correct connector. HOWEVER, it DIED before I could even properly adjust the window height, thus I ordered the AC/Delco part. It didn't last 5 minutes!
I guess the old saying "Ya get what ya pay for" holds true.
Live and learn i guess
04-20-2017, 10:47 PM
Couple of tips on Window Regulator Replacement
