JacobVrrm123

The car is a 2002 C5 Z06. I noticed that when I accelerate hard and shift quick the clutch pedal will get stuck at the bottom (happens with only hard accelerations and is fine when cruising normal). I have to pull the clutch pedal back towards me and even than it feels mushy till I pump it several times. I've always kept the fluid clean by changing it with every oil change using the Ranger method. Any ideas what the issue might be? I guessing it's air in the system and that's why I have to pump it several times after it gets stuck.

Ludeaem

The ranger method really isn't 100% effective so the fluid you are replacing is only doing a minor job at keeping the fluid fresh. Bleeding from the slave cylinder is the only way to remedy this issue from my research. Thats why you'll always read about remote bleeders for the slave and how helpful they are.

JacobVrrm123

What do you think about bleeding it with a Mityvac from the clutch fluid reservoir? I know it takes a lot to bleed it from the slave cylinder such as pulling off the exhaust system. I'm also considering pulling off the spring from behind the clutch pedal, I read that helped a lot of people with the same issue.

Bill Curlee

What HP/Tq level are you at??

This happens very frequently when mods are accomplished and increases the engine HP/TQ level over stock.

You can try a complete bleed at the slave cylinder bleed fitting (pain in the ***).

If that doesn't work, I would try to replace the clutch master cylinder. THEY FILL FULL OF CRAP (CLUTCH DUST SLIME) and tend to loose volume.

If none of that helps,,, its clutch time.

Bill

JacobVrrm123

Thanks for your response, Bill. The car is stock. I was thinking about bleeding the slave cylinder but it's such a pain to do and I would rather do all that when I start modding the car so I'm not doing the same job twice. Have people had success bleeding it with a MityVac through the reservoir?

nsogiba

I tried the ranger method, fresh fluid, all that stuff, never helped much.

The only thing that fixed this for me was a Tick Clutch Master Cylinder.

Install it and never look back

Bill Curlee

The master cylinder change is the only INEXPENSIVE major repair attempt you can make other than a full bleed & flush at the slave.

If your fluid is ever so nasty, changing it and doing a flush may help but,,, My 02 ZO6 only had 35K on the clutch and when I added power, the clutch IMMEDIATELY started sticking to the floor.

I disassembled the master as an after the fact explore procedure and found it full of clutch dust slime.

Not saying that was that was the cause of clutch failure but part of it.

Good luck mu friend.

Bill

bigmackloud

This is a very very common issue. And there are varying experiences on what it takes to resolve the issue.

I did the ranger method to change the fluid (and still do before each track event). It helps but not a fix. I installed the Tick clutch master cylinder. Quality part but did not fix the problem.

The last step is upgrading the clutch and replacing the slave cylinder at the same time. And install a speed bleeder while you're in there. that's what I'm doing now.

My car has light engine mods, cam etc, was making 375rwhp. Bought it this way so I can't say when the clutch pedal issue started. But adding power seems to be a very common trigger.

jerkyboy

I've got the same issue. I had the remote bleeder to the slave when I had the McCleod RST installed and it helps a bit but I think the next step is a clutch MC. So what are the thoughts on the GM MC vs Tick?

nsogiba

All else being equal, my 105k mile GM master caused the pedal to fall to the floor. I installed a Tick Master and no longer have the pedal issue. Pretty cut and dry IMO.

JacobVrrm123

I decided to pull the assist spring from behind the clutch pedal and after taking the car for a spin everything seems to work fine now. I'm going to test it some more this week and if the problem comes back I'll be removing the master cylinder and replacing it with the Tick one.

JBB

1) Try vacuum bleeding @ the master.
I'd remove any old fluid using a turkey baster. (Capt Obvious says be careful not to spill) Refill with fresh fluid.
Temporarily remove the rubber from the cap & using the cap vent as attaching point for your vacuum pump, go at it until bubbles stop.

2)If that don't work:

Remove the reservoir cap. (Fill as needed)
Pump the pedal very fast for 30 seconds.
Stop pumping and let the air escape.
Repeat this procedure as necessary.
(This was the only way we could bleed our 3500HD after replacing clutch master.)

Chevy Guy

In the end, you will need to replace the slave cylinder. All these "fixes" do little to nothing,. The issue is the salve cylinder, not the master, not a spring, or anything else.