Valeo alternator rebuild- replace bearings?
#1
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Valeo alternator rebuild- replace bearings?
Part of my 205k mile engine/rear/trans rebuild project is to rebuild and paint my alternator. While it was still working- since I have it off figured this was the perfect time for some preventative maintenance + cleaning/painting. Got the replacement regulator/brushes from a place in California. Found the slip ring from Ireland.
Question now is the bearings which I pressed out was Koyo 6202RDD and 6303RDD. Looks like they should be just standard double sealed bearings but I'm not sure if they're contact sealed or non-contact sealed. There's Koyo replacements with the suffix 2RD but neither the local Motion Industries or Grainger has them, but can order. Waiting to hear back from Koyo's tech support on the suffix definition on the 2RD but I think they're just non-contact sealed which are readily available from the local Grainger.
The bearings that came out feel good and are not noisy. I'm tempted just to put these back in- in my experience sometimes it's better not to fix something that's not broken then try to replace it with a potentially inferior part Also seems like even if the bearings get worn/wobbly- the worse that could happen is it gets noisy and/or wears the brushes/slip ring a bit faster.
So, anybody replace their alternator bearings before? If so, what did you use?
Question now is the bearings which I pressed out was Koyo 6202RDD and 6303RDD. Looks like they should be just standard double sealed bearings but I'm not sure if they're contact sealed or non-contact sealed. There's Koyo replacements with the suffix 2RD but neither the local Motion Industries or Grainger has them, but can order. Waiting to hear back from Koyo's tech support on the suffix definition on the 2RD but I think they're just non-contact sealed which are readily available from the local Grainger.
The bearings that came out feel good and are not noisy. I'm tempted just to put these back in- in my experience sometimes it's better not to fix something that's not broken then try to replace it with a potentially inferior part Also seems like even if the bearings get worn/wobbly- the worse that could happen is it gets noisy and/or wears the brushes/slip ring a bit faster.
So, anybody replace their alternator bearings before? If so, what did you use?
Last edited by ericdwong; 07-14-2017 at 09:21 AM.
#3
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Yup, good read and I learned a bit more about bearings from this too. For the <$20 in parts I'm just going to replace them with the local Grainger sealed non-contact units. The contact bearings cost significantly more and on an application like this I think non-contact sealed bearings should work just fine. I'm also amazed how well this unit looks like it lasted after 205k. The brushes still had decent life left. I'm going to replace the regulator and cross my fingers it doesn't throw the CEL since the motorola transistor no longer appears in the replacement version. From the pictures you can see new brushes and regulator vs the old one.
Last edited by ericdwong; 07-13-2017 at 01:04 PM.
#4
Melting Slicks
#5
Yep I would say you are on the right track with the non-contact sealed bearing, especially for the price. Yes keep the thread updated with links and stuff as I think you've gone farther inside the alternator than anyone I've seen on the board. I'd also suggest you throw some paint on the casing while you have it apart. Will make it look nice once you have it back together.
EDIT: Doh! I see you where you already said you were gonna paint it.
EDIT: Doh! I see you where you already said you were gonna paint it.
Last edited by twokbolt; 07-13-2017 at 06:18 PM.
#6
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OK here are some links, which I believe does not break forum rules as none of our supporting vendors sells these parts.
Also, important disclaimers:
Parts list:
Tips - there are other equivalent bearings available from other bearing manufacturers. For Motion Industries, if the local branch doesn't have it in stock and they transfer stock or special order they will charge you shipping. For Grainger, if you have a branch nearby you can order for pickup and it doesn't charge shipping for a stock transfer. Their website is a bit easier to use than Motion Industries too.
Instructions on how to remove the Valeo slip ring- this is very similar to what I followed and the seller of the slip ring from Ireland. The alternator in the video is a little different than the C5's.
Some pictures of me disassembling my rotor to get the slip ring out:
Used a puller to pull the bearing out. The other bearing is in the case and can be pressed out fairly easily.
Using dremel with small wire brush to access the solder joints.
I have not yet desoldered the slip ring, as I'm waiting for the new one to arrive from Ireland any day now.
Also, important disclaimers:
- As of this typing I have NOT installed these replacement parts yet. I will update this thread as the parts come in and I replace the items.
- I have ordered, but not yet received yet the slip ring or bearings but the dimensions appear correct from my measurements.
- It will be several months before I can get my car running again to see if it even works.
- Please use this information at your own discretion.
Parts list:
- Slip Ring: http://www.ebay.com/itm/152151006214
- Brushes/regulator: http://www.ebay.com/itm/VALEO-ALTERN...item43be3599cf
- Smaller bearing: https://www.grainger.com/product/BL-...Bearing-35JA16
- Larger bearing: https://www.grainger.com/product/BL-...Bearing-35JA56
Tips - there are other equivalent bearings available from other bearing manufacturers. For Motion Industries, if the local branch doesn't have it in stock and they transfer stock or special order they will charge you shipping. For Grainger, if you have a branch nearby you can order for pickup and it doesn't charge shipping for a stock transfer. Their website is a bit easier to use than Motion Industries too.
Instructions on how to remove the Valeo slip ring- this is very similar to what I followed and the seller of the slip ring from Ireland. The alternator in the video is a little different than the C5's.
Some pictures of me disassembling my rotor to get the slip ring out:
Used a puller to pull the bearing out. The other bearing is in the case and can be pressed out fairly easily.
Using dremel with small wire brush to access the solder joints.
I have not yet desoldered the slip ring, as I'm waiting for the new one to arrive from Ireland any day now.
Last edited by ericdwong; 07-14-2017 at 10:38 AM.