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Ok guys hopefully I can get some insight as to how badly I'm screwed well here goes somehow the oem crank bolt came loose so I purchased a new crank bolt as for they only have a single use torque spec tightened it down approx 240 lbs torque and put locktite on it as well after bolt 50 miles I started hearing a tapping noise so immediatly brought back home. After removing the serpentine belt I found out tgat tge crank pulley is loose but the crank bolt is still tight hope I haven't messed the crank up any input guys?
If it hasn't worked itself forward or backward yet, you'll be fine. Get it replaced and grab an ARP crank bolt and a Powerbond balancer. There exists a ton of aftermarket balancers, but a nice powerbond unit will be fine at stock power levels.
I really appreciate yiur guys input I'm not quite sure by seperation is doesn't seem to be but I could ve wrong I took some pictures hope this may help.
...... torque spec tightened it down approx 240 lbs torque .....
That is not correct. The 240 lb-ft is applied to the old bolt during the installation process, which is then removed and replaced with the new bolt. The new bolt is then tightened to 37 lb-ft followed by a 140 degree rotation. That is likely the issue and why it came loose. Question now is if it spun on the crank, and if so, if it damaged the hub of the harmonic damper requiring replacement with a new one. This is a rather precise interference fit so spinning on the crank will cause issues with that fit.
Note that my post above is for stock parts, the ARP bolt is not TTY and uses the ARP lube and a specified torque value. Depending on which aftermarket harmonic dampener you are installing, the key for pinning may already be machined in place to use the ATI pinning kit.
07-17-2017, 12:02 PM
Crank pulley came loose f#$@
