C5 Electrical issue: car wont start until 30th try?
10-21-2017, 08:43 PM
#1
C5 Electrical issue: car wont start until 30th try?
Hello Forum,
I've been having this issue with my C5 where I will try to start my car up and it will take 20-30 turns of my key until it actually fires up. Its been doing this for the past month or so now until today where my car wont turn over at all. At first I thought this was a battery problem so I charged the battery over night and still nothing. My dad said it could either be a bad ignition switch, a bad starter solenoid or a bad starter motor. My car is a 2002 C5 with a MS4 cam, long tubes, fuel injectors, Varam intake on 93k miles. Let me know what you think.
Thanks!
-Brian
I've been having this issue with my C5 where I will try to start my car up and it will take 20-30 turns of my key until it actually fires up. Its been doing this for the past month or so now until today where my car wont turn over at all. At first I thought this was a battery problem so I charged the battery over night and still nothing. My dad said it could either be a bad ignition switch, a bad starter solenoid or a bad starter motor. My car is a 2002 C5 with a MS4 cam, long tubes, fuel injectors, Varam intake on 93k miles. Let me know what you think.
Thanks!
-Brian
10-22-2017, 12:23 AM
#2
Drifting
A more detailed description of the symptom may help. I can see that "today" it would not crank at all, but in the past, would the engine crank every time you attempt to start it? Or not crank at all?
What is the voltage across the battery terminals before an attempt to start? What is the voltage across the battery terminals when the key is turned to the crank position?
Clear codes and then attempt to crank. Read the codes that are new after the attempt to crank and report them.
Ignition switches are often the culprit when the engine can be cranked but does not start. The starter or starter solenoid are often the culprit in a no crank situation, but more diagnosis is in order to try to pinpoint the problem.
What is the voltage across the battery terminals before an attempt to start? What is the voltage across the battery terminals when the key is turned to the crank position?
Clear codes and then attempt to crank. Read the codes that are new after the attempt to crank and report them.
Ignition switches are often the culprit when the engine can be cranked but does not start. The starter or starter solenoid are often the culprit in a no crank situation, but more diagnosis is in order to try to pinpoint the problem.
10-22-2017, 09:09 AM
#3
When you turn the key what happens? Nothing? Fast clicking sound? Does the motor attempt to crank slowly?
You can have your battery tested at the parts store for free.
Other than that its probably either starter or ignition switch.
You can have your battery tested at the parts store for free.
Other than that its probably either starter or ignition switch.
10-23-2017, 01:41 AM
#4
I agree with the other responses about the lack of detail of your symptoms. You understand the symptoms but have failed to communicate the EXACT symptom.. There is a huge difference between a No Crank condition and a Crank NO Start condition when it comes to cause.......... 
It would also be helpful to know if the car is an automatic or manual as the start circuit involves different components between the two trans types and hence potentially different diagnostic routines to help identify what is happening.
Pull and post your codes as there can be clues in the codes as well. If you have never pulled codes before here is how:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SviRjIsy9G4
List ALL the codes including the H or C or HC that follow each code. List the codes under the sensor they show up under. ie 10 - PCM or 28 - TCS or 40 - BCM .... etc ......
If any sensors have NO COMM next to them post that also.
It would also be helpful to know if the car is an automatic or manual as the start circuit involves different components between the two trans types and hence potentially different diagnostic routines to help identify what is happening.
Pull and post your codes as there can be clues in the codes as well. If you have never pulled codes before here is how:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SviRjIsy9G4
List ALL the codes including the H or C or HC that follow each code. List the codes under the sensor they show up under. ie 10 - PCM or 28 - TCS or 40 - BCM .... etc ......
If any sensors have NO COMM next to them post that also.
Hey, I'm sorry I didn't realize I was being vague. The motor doesn't crank period. All I hear is the small click underneath the dashboard. Again the motor doesn't crank at all. My car is a manual trans and I deleted all the codes to see if any would pop up again and nothing has popped up again.
Last edited by bbuddine; 10-23-2017 at 01:43 AM.
10-23-2017, 04:43 PM
#5
Tech Contributor
Member Since: Dec 1999
Location: Anthony TX
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CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
While an assistant attempts to crank the engine and HOLDS the key to the CRANK POSITION,,,, THUMP the starter and solenoid with a rod and see if that causes it to come to life.....
BC
BC
10-25-2017, 11:08 PM
#8
Advanced
Some good advice already in this thread. I dealt with this same issue this past winter.
I'd start by looking to see if the security light is behaving correctly. Then bypass the clutch switch. Then measure voltage at the starter while an assistant turns the key. Then pop-start the car by rolling it down the driveway. If it will pop-start and run, you don't have a security system issue. Mine ended up being a starter. I installed a 6.0L 2500 silverado starter and now it cranks over a bit faster.
I'd start by looking to see if the security light is behaving correctly. Then bypass the clutch switch. Then measure voltage at the starter while an assistant turns the key. Then pop-start the car by rolling it down the driveway. If it will pop-start and run, you don't have a security system issue. Mine ended up being a starter. I installed a 6.0L 2500 silverado starter and now it cranks over a bit faster.
02-17-2019, 07:09 PM
#9
Melting Slicks
With wire off car won't start
The wire is to the sensors feeling the VATS pellet in the key.
Need a new lock cylinder containing good sensors and wire (ask me how I know)
or cut the wire and solder in a resistor with the same value in your VATS ignition key,
I had a bad sensor and got a good used ignition key from Fleebay. Had the lock cylinder rekeyed at the dealership for about $25 (locksmiths wanted $150 to $250)
I also added a SPDT switch and the resistor to select either the key pellet resistance or a bypass resistance. With a center OFF position the resistance is infinite and like yours won't start gving me a KILL switch. Using a small black rocker switch under the dash it is unobtrusive and almost invisible.
Need a new lock cylinder containing good sensors and wire (ask me how I know)
or cut the wire and solder in a resistor with the same value in your VATS ignition key,
I had a bad sensor and got a good used ignition key from Fleebay. Had the lock cylinder rekeyed at the dealership for about $25 (locksmiths wanted $150 to $250)
I also added a SPDT switch and the resistor to select either the key pellet resistance or a bypass resistance. With a center OFF position the resistance is infinite and like yours won't start gving me a KILL switch. Using a small black rocker switch under the dash it is unobtrusive and almost invisible.
02-17-2019, 07:16 PM
#10
Sorry I know this post was over a year and a half ago, but the issue ended up being a bad starter solenoid. I hit the started which re-engaged the solenoid and it fired up. I ended up doing a head port job in the process while removing the starter and just about a month ago from now I bolted on a LSA ported blower!
