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Tick speed bleeder help

Old 01-13-2018, 10:43 PM
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2kFRC_HWN
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Default Tick speed bleeder help

I need some help..

I did my monster clutch... tick master.. GM Slave and tick bleeder.

Closed everything up and bled the slave... Clutch fluid leaking from bell.

Opened up the bell it's leaking from the copper crush washer supplied with the bleeder.

Something struck me as odd when I was assembling it...but figured there was a reason for it.... so I used it...

The crush washer was oval shaped.

For those of you with the speed bleeder is it supposed to be oval? If it is I'll just separate everything again and tighten the fitting. If its not supposed to be.. I'll buy a new one.

Pretty unhappy..

Thank you.
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Old 01-14-2018, 02:29 AM
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2kFRC_HWN
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Pretty sure what they sent me is not ok...

Shame on me... Should've known better..
Old 01-14-2018, 10:35 AM
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frodo84
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Are you sure it's supposed to have the crush washer? It seals on the end surface, right? Is the washer (which doesn't look like it fits or belongs there) is preventing the end surface from reaching it's matching seal surface, wouldn't it leak?

Last edited by frodo84; 01-14-2018 at 10:36 AM.
Old 01-14-2018, 11:27 AM
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93Polo
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I believe the crush washer goes on the line side of the fitting that goes into the slave.
Old 01-14-2018, 11:39 AM
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Originally Posted by 93Polo
I believe the crush washer goes on the line side of the fitting that goes into the slave.
That makes sense . It is in the wrong place.
Old 01-14-2018, 11:53 AM
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2kFRC_HWN
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That's actually the side that threads into the slave.
the copper washer is sandwiched between the fitting and slave.

The end of the oval opening extends past the fitting face.

​​​​​the washer wasn't damaged either... Looks defective. It was perfectly flat.
Old 01-14-2018, 03:19 PM
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neutron82
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my remote bleeder doesn't use a washer at the slave end but it is from a different company... do you happen to have a picture of the whole bleeder line?... maybe that washer was supposed to be used on the bleeder end?
Old 01-15-2018, 11:57 PM
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It's in and sealed up. I went to the local honda motorcycle dealer and used and aluminum crush washer for the brake calipers.

The fitting from tick isn't long enough for the flare to seat in the slave...

​​ the other end has a bleeder nipple on the line and seals up well against the flare.

It was a pain to open up the torque tube after closing everything up. In hindsight I should've installed the master and checked the slave before putting the trans and cradle back...... I installed the torque tube first.. It was easier for me to manipulate.
Old 01-16-2018, 11:41 AM
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Originally Posted by 2kFRC_HWN
It's in and sealed up. I went to the local honda motorcycle dealer and used and aluminum crush washer for the brake calipers.

The fitting from tick isn't long enough for the flare to seat in the slave...

​​ the other end has a bleeder nipple on the line and seals up well against the flare.

It was a pain to open up the torque tube after closing everything up. In hindsight I should've installed the master and checked the slave before putting the trans and cradle back...... I installed the torque tube first.. It was easier for me to manipulate.

On another note, I have read some online reviews about aluminum crush washers that were very negative. I recently purchased a complete set of Russell braided brake lines for my Impala SS and the kit came with aluminum washers which I replaced with copper. Reviews claim that the washers do seal but that over time they corrode and do start leaking. I have no first hand knowledge of this happening but I didn’t want to chance it. Just a heads up for something to watch for.
Old 01-18-2018, 03:01 PM
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Thanks for the info F6john!! Ill watch out for it... Im hoping it seizes up instead of leaks!!
Old 01-19-2018, 08:59 PM
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Default washers

FWIW I use copper washers on the brake lines but anneal them first with a butane torch. Heat 'em up and air cool. I run C6/C5 calipers on my SS with SS lines.
Old 01-20-2018, 09:16 PM
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Originally Posted by BTTBSS
FWIW I use copper washers on the brake lines but anneal them first with a butane torch. Heat 'em up and air cool. I run C6/C5 calipers on my SS with SS lines.
That's smart!! I'll remember this one for next time!

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