Tick speed bleeder help
#1
Tick speed bleeder help
I need some help..
I did my monster clutch... tick master.. GM Slave and tick bleeder.
Closed everything up and bled the slave... Clutch fluid leaking from bell.
Opened up the bell it's leaking from the copper crush washer supplied with the bleeder.
Something struck me as odd when I was assembling it...but figured there was a reason for it.... so I used it...
The crush washer was oval shaped.
For those of you with the speed bleeder is it supposed to be oval? If it is I'll just separate everything again and tighten the fitting. If its not supposed to be.. I'll buy a new one.
Pretty unhappy..
Thank you.
I did my monster clutch... tick master.. GM Slave and tick bleeder.
Closed everything up and bled the slave... Clutch fluid leaking from bell.
Opened up the bell it's leaking from the copper crush washer supplied with the bleeder.
Something struck me as odd when I was assembling it...but figured there was a reason for it.... so I used it...
The crush washer was oval shaped.
For those of you with the speed bleeder is it supposed to be oval? If it is I'll just separate everything again and tighten the fitting. If its not supposed to be.. I'll buy a new one.
Pretty unhappy..
Thank you.
#3
Uneducated overachiever
Are you sure it's supposed to have the crush washer? It seals on the end surface, right? Is the washer (which doesn't look like it fits or belongs there) is preventing the end surface from reaching it's matching seal surface, wouldn't it leak?
Last edited by frodo84; 01-14-2018 at 10:36 AM.
#5
Uneducated overachiever
#6
That's actually the side that threads into the slave.
the copper washer is sandwiched between the fitting and slave.
The end of the oval opening extends past the fitting face.
the washer wasn't damaged either... Looks defective. It was perfectly flat.
the copper washer is sandwiched between the fitting and slave.
The end of the oval opening extends past the fitting face.
the washer wasn't damaged either... Looks defective. It was perfectly flat.
#7
Race Director
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2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
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my remote bleeder doesn't use a washer at the slave end but it is from a different company... do you happen to have a picture of the whole bleeder line?... maybe that washer was supposed to be used on the bleeder end?
#8
It's in and sealed up. I went to the local honda motorcycle dealer and used and aluminum crush washer for the brake calipers.
The fitting from tick isn't long enough for the flare to seat in the slave...
the other end has a bleeder nipple on the line and seals up well against the flare.
It was a pain to open up the torque tube after closing everything up. In hindsight I should've installed the master and checked the slave before putting the trans and cradle back...... I installed the torque tube first.. It was easier for me to manipulate.
The fitting from tick isn't long enough for the flare to seat in the slave...
the other end has a bleeder nipple on the line and seals up well against the flare.
It was a pain to open up the torque tube after closing everything up. In hindsight I should've installed the master and checked the slave before putting the trans and cradle back...... I installed the torque tube first.. It was easier for me to manipulate.
#9
Melting Slicks
It's in and sealed up. I went to the local honda motorcycle dealer and used and aluminum crush washer for the brake calipers.
The fitting from tick isn't long enough for the flare to seat in the slave...
the other end has a bleeder nipple on the line and seals up well against the flare.
It was a pain to open up the torque tube after closing everything up. In hindsight I should've installed the master and checked the slave before putting the trans and cradle back...... I installed the torque tube first.. It was easier for me to manipulate.
The fitting from tick isn't long enough for the flare to seat in the slave...
the other end has a bleeder nipple on the line and seals up well against the flare.
It was a pain to open up the torque tube after closing everything up. In hindsight I should've installed the master and checked the slave before putting the trans and cradle back...... I installed the torque tube first.. It was easier for me to manipulate.
On another note, I have read some online reviews about aluminum crush washers that were very negative. I recently purchased a complete set of Russell braided brake lines for my Impala SS and the kit came with aluminum washers which I replaced with copper. Reviews claim that the washers do seal but that over time they corrode and do start leaking. I have no first hand knowledge of this happening but I didn’t want to chance it. Just a heads up for something to watch for.
#11
Instructor
washers
FWIW I use copper washers on the brake lines but anneal them first with a butane torch. Heat 'em up and air cool. I run C6/C5 calipers on my SS with SS lines.
#12