TheC5Surgeon

Hey guys,

I am shooting to perform a camshaft and valvetrain upgrade by late March/ early April on my 1999 FRC. ls1howto.com and the factory manual seem to be the most comprehensive when it comes to actual procedures, so I will use those as guides. I read various threads saying ls1howto procedure for the crankshaft balancer installation can result in engine damage so I will use the manual for more technical procedural parts such as this. Anyway, I aim to assemble the most reliable setup that can be expected from a mild-medium cam swap and that is why I would like to upgrade the valvetrain/oil pump/timing chain as well. I want to make reliable power that can serve close to a daily driver if needed. Here is a list of parts I plan to purchase and questions that have come up thus far. This is not a comprehensive post but any input will go a long way. Thank you all.

Part/specialty tool list: (I am sure I am forgetting something, but this is most of it)
1. Hawks harmonic balancer install tool
2. 3 arm puller for crankshaft removal
3. GM or ARP crankshaft bolt
4. GM cylinder head bolts and gaskets
5. Texas speed cam/spring/GM high performance oil pump/LS2 timing chain package. Or something comparable from brian tooley racing
6. Ls7 lifters
7. Ls2 lifter tray
8. LG 1 ¾ super pro headers with catless x pipe
9. Camshaft degree kit
10. Torque angle tool for crankshaft balancer install
Question:
1. Is it worth it to take off the heads for a lifter and tray swap? The motor has just under 49K miles if that helps.
2. TSP offers .660 dual springs in either one or two-piece options with their kit. Any difference between the two and will they fit directly on unmodified heads?
3. Has anyone found where to buy a longer crank bolt to assist in balancer removal?
4. Any input on quality of Texas speed? Would Brian Tooley racing or other brand be a better choice for quality at a comparable price?
5. I am considering a 224R 114LSA or milder for this setup. Any input on long term reliability with this kind of setup?
6. Would keeping stock rocker arms be advised?

93Polo

Take a look at the EPS 222/226. I prefer CamMotion cams or cams ground on CamMotion cores. I would run stock rockers with a bushing upgrade such as Straub. Vendors offer springs that go on the heads without modification. I would buy the springs from whoever you buy the cam from.

The SacCity front cover alignment tool is very helpful. You don't want to put it together to find a front seal leak due to the cover not being centered.

If you don't have an adjustable timing set, the degree kit can only really verify that your cam was ground off. Most go dot to dot and with a small cam, piston to valve clearance should not be a problem.

Taking the heads off isn't really a big deal. I would replace the lifters (which requires the heads to be pulled), the trays are inexpensive but your call.

I would use a ARP crank bolt, and ARP studs or bolts for the heads. I have done the crank bolt a few times with the ARP bolt and we torque to spec without a torque angle tool. I would buy a crank stop tool.



LS1howto is a life saver, you seem to have done your research.

TheC5Surgeon

93Polo thanks for the insight, people seem to make pretty good power with the EPS 222/226. I am also looking into the btr stage 2.
Definitely going with the alignment tool, new lifters, trays, flywheel locking tool, and ARP crank bolt. I am hoping to fit the bushing upgrade for the rockers into the budget as well.

93Polo

We did the Titan 4 on a friends car. '00 FRC Fast 92, 243 heads, straub bushing upgrade, Dynatech headers, GHL exhaust, stock 3.42 gears and he really likes it, and has run some HPDEs with it.

http://www.cammotion.com/camshafts/t...227-232-113-4/

EPS has a 226/230.

I would and have called multiple shops discussing their cams. I would have gone EPS (who uses CamMotion), if a local shop wasn't clearing out a CamMotion grind with the specs I wanted.

Don't forget pushrods on the parts list.

brownrd

Hi. I was told that an alternate way of aligning the front seal/cover is to leave the cover bolts loose and install the harmonic balancer. The balancer will move the cover into alignment, once this is done the cover bolts can be tightened. Is this a practical and effective alternative to buying the SacCity tools?

neutron82

this is how I "aligned" the front cover when I installed the cam, it leaked... so I had to go back in and do it again but I used the tool from saccity the second time and it has been bone dry since... I also bought their rear cover tool when I did my clutch and got the same result, bone dry and no leaks... the tools are fairly cheap and personally I would rather spend a little extra for peace of mind and not have to do the work twice

Bill Curlee

I will address/recommend for each line: (reply)


Part/specialty tool list: (I am sure I am forgetting something, but this is most of it)
1. Hawks harmonic balancer install tool
(I heat the dampener HUB with a heat gun or torch to approx 150-180 deg. Makes removal & install SOOOOOO MUCH easier!!)

2. 3 arm puller for crankshaft removal

3. GM or ARP crankshaft bolt
ARP BOLT for sure!!!!!



4. GM cylinder head bolts and gaskets

I 100% recommend ARP HEAD STUDS!!!! I no longer trust the TTY style bolts as they seem to cause head bolt sripping out of the block. Once you use the studs, you wont want to use anything else!!!!

5. Texas speed cam/spring/GM high performance oil pump/LS2 timing chain package. Or something comparable from brian tooley racing
6. Ls7 lifters
7. Ls2 lifter tray
8. LG 1 ¾ super pro headers with catless x pipe
9. Camshaft degree kit
10. Torque angle tool for crankshaft balancer install
Question:
1. Is it worth it to take off the heads for a lifter and tray swap? The motor has just under 49K miles if that helps.
2. TSP offers .660 dual springs in either one or two-piece options with their kit. Any difference between the two and will they fit directly on unmodified heads?
3. Has anyone found where to buy a longer crank bolt to assist in balancer removal?
4. Any input on quality of Texas speed? Would Brian Tooley racing or other brand be a better choice for quality at a comparable price?
5. I am considering a 224R 114LSA or milder for this setup. Any input on long term reliability with this kind of setup?
6. Would keeping stock rocker arms be advised?




NOTE!!!! The head bolt holes in the block are BLIND HOLES. If there is ANY liquid in the bolt holes, you will rupture the block! The bolt holes MUST be clean!! Usea specific cleaning TAP! DO NOT use a regular tap!!!!!!

NEW LIFTES ARE A MUST!

Use the larger dia pushrods!

Install a timing chain dampener! Many companies make a retro fit kit and someone is making a LS1/6 OEM style damper now.

NEW LIFTER BUCKETS!

Bill

Route99

Several excellent suggestions. You definitely want the ARP bolt for the harmonic balancer and the ARP head studs.
Don't skimp on tools necessary to do the job correctly - probably cheaper in the long run if it helps you do it correctly the first time.
New lifters and trays.
I have the BTR Stage 2 and really enjoy it for a very streetable cam that still generates good power.
You may have planned it and I didn't see it, but consider replacing your HB, too.
It would be great if you could go over to at least 243 heads and a LS6 intake.
Since you'd change your spark plugs, go ahead and include GMPP plug wires.
You've got a nice project planned out. Please let us know how it goes.

DetroitPlac

I second this!

The first time I changed my balancer, I let it self-center and it leaked. So when I did it again, I did the cam and slide right down the slope. Not buying the tool in the first place got REALLY expensive for me!

vettenuts

The problem with using the harmonic balancer for aligning the cover is that it compresses the seal on one side. Another reason that I don't like LS1howto.com.

I used a finely graduated metal rule to align my cover by measuring to the metal where the seal is located. The SAC city tool does the same thing and is easier. But the tool.

brownrd

Thanks! Alignment tool is on order from SacCityCorvette!! Do you have other suggestions about improvements to LS1HowTo instructions?

Time for a C-5

Just a couple of thoughts from my recent project:

Someone above recommended the EPS 222/226 cam. I have this same basic cam and it drive drives nice and easy. Sometimes I wish I would have gone bigger but I wanted friendly street manors and this cam fits the bill.

My ARP balancer bolt backed out shortly after the install. I didn't do the work and the shop that did the work made it right, but I'm constantly checking it. No issues a couple years later...I wish someone would have to me to go aftermarket or pin it. Just a thought.

Valve springs - I may be in the minority, but I put a good single beehive in my set-up. I have a buddy that works for PAC. The recommendation from the PAC engineers, based on the mild build and how I intend to use the car (weekend fun toy) was for a good single spring. His thoughts were that the lower pressure would be easy on the valvetrain and their failure rate is so small he was not concerned. I went with the 1219x - lift is good up to .625" and my cam is .600. The x means it's shot peened for longevity. My buddy hand picked 16 springs that weighted within a sliver of one another.

Good luck and keep us posted!

neutron82

I agree with you on the springs... the less valvetrain mass the better and if you don't have a ridiculous cam then you may not need super stiff dual springs either... it will also put less stress on lifters and the rest of the valvetrain components... duals do have advantages though, for example if the outer one breaks then the inner spring will keep it from collapsing and damaging the piston... but if you don't need duals then a good quality beehive such as pac will work great... I have the 1518's on mine (which I don't think they make anymore unfortunately) for about 5 years with over 800rwhp and it sees 6800rpm regularly and those springs have served me well

DetroitPlac

Springs depend entirely on the intended use. A car that sees track time should probably use dual springs just for safely.

Otherwise, lighter single springs are probably the right way to go.

vettenuts

Yes.

1. When pulling off the old harmonic balancer, don't use the bolt left in the crank. This will load the threads and ls1howto has you extract the bolt to get better bites on the balancer as it comes off. Problem with that is you are now loading even less threads. Instead, fully remove the bolt and find a socket that will set against the end of the crank to push on with the puller as you remove the balancer. This results in no load on the threads.

2. Before pulling the heads, I used a Miti-vac with a small tube inserted into each side of the block to remove remaining coolant. This results in much less of a mess when you pull the heads. Some use a wet vac for this but if you have a way to remove the coolant it will greatly aid in cleanup and how much ends up on top of pistons and in bolt holes.

3. As mentioned above, make sure you absolutely dry the bolt holes before reassembly.

4. Buy some assembly lube, I like Redline, but there are others and use it on the cam lobes, pushrods, rockers, etc. to prevent a dry start.

5. LS1howto instructs to insert pushrods, rockers and then tighten to 22 lb-ft. This is wrong and you should follow the GM procedure instead.

6. You mention a Comp degree kit but not an adjustable timing set. Are you are checking the cam with the intention of buying an adjustable set if the timing is off? If you plan to adjust, then I would get the Cloyes Hex-adjust.

7. I didn't see an adjustable pushrod in your list. Also, get pushrods with a larger OD than 5/16". They will flex in the upper RPM. You won't feel it or know it, but you valve train will.

I would use LS1howto for the photos, etc. but not for the methods. Follow the service manual for methods. I could probably come up with more.

TheC5Surgeon

A lot of good info here. I am throwing in the ARP head bolts, cleaning tap, and flywheel holder for sure. Bill and vettenuts, thank you for the technical tips. I have the 3-volume manual on standby for all the technical steps.
Vettenuts, I was not originally considering the adjustable timing set. The premise behind getting the degree kit would be mostly for peace of mind that the camshaft is installed correctly/the correct grind was delivered (this will be my first camshaft job). Is something worthwhile or do you think it is just a waste of time?
I will look more into the single beehive spring options available. It's looking like the BTR stage 2 or something very comparable is the camshaft profile I will most likely settle on. Given this camshaft profile I will need to find some single spring currently offered that will handle at least .625 lift. Although even if I did settle with the dual hopefully the upgraded valvetrain will be somewhat better at handling the increased spring pressure. I am hoping to fit all this stuff into my budget of 4-4.5 K (including trailering the car to dyno tune and the tune itself). If the budget allows I would like the aftermarket balancer as well.
What is everyone’s thoughts on reusing stock valves and rocker arms with this kind of setup?

Route99

You should be able to reuse your valves. I would suggest miking the valve stem to ensure nothing has caused excessive wear. IIRC the valve stem should be 8mm (.314"), but you can double check that in the service manuals. Also, check that the guides and seals are not excessively worn. Might be a cheap fix to replace them - if you have the air tool to hold the valves up.
Rocker arms can also be reused if they are in good condition. If your rockers are original, you should consider a trunnion replacement. BTR had some good replacements; you can check to see if they are in stock. I believe they've sold out a few times. Several other vendors will also have different trunnion upgrade kits, too.
Good luck with your build.

Smoken1

I went with these and alot of other members have to.
http://www.straubtechnologies.com/ls...trunnion-kits/

TheC5Surgeon

The car ended up making 410hp/392tq (still have the stock 853 heads and ls1 intake manifold) to the wheels and is running great minus a minor idle issue. Much thanks to everyone for all this awesome advise. It was not the cheapest build for sure but I used only high quality parts that will hopefully make this motor last. If anyone has any questions about the build or part combination just let me know.

93Polo

Did you go with the BTR stage 2?