Help: Did a really stupid thing... accidentally shorted fuse 13, BCM Ignition
02-05-2018, 08:48 PM
#1
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Help: id a really stupid thing... shorted fuse 13 to BCM, Ignition
I did a really, really, really stupid thing. 
:
I was searching for a fuse to pull to keep the engine from starting while it was to be stored outside for a few days in a sketchy neighborhood. [2003 C5 Anniversary Edition hatchback]
I used a small screwdriver to help pry it out [fuse 13, BCM, Ignition] in passenger compartment, under R side footwell]. In doing so, I accidentally shorted across the fuse terminals. It seems I now have a permanent kill switch.
In ads for used BCMs, it say it must be programmed before use. Can I do this? Now that the car won't start, getting it anywhere will require towing. Can independent car repair shops do the programming?
I'm a few miles from downtown Los Angeles, CA.
Thank you kindly for help & info,
Sal
:I was searching for a fuse to pull to keep the engine from starting while it was to be stored outside for a few days in a sketchy neighborhood. [2003 C5 Anniversary Edition hatchback]
I used a small screwdriver to help pry it out [fuse 13, BCM, Ignition] in passenger compartment, under R side footwell]. In doing so, I accidentally shorted across the fuse terminals. It seems I now have a permanent kill switch.
In ads for used BCMs, it say it must be programmed before use. Can I do this? Now that the car won't start, getting it anywhere will require towing. Can independent car repair shops do the programming?
I'm a few miles from downtown Los Angeles, CA.
Thank you kindly for help & info,
Sal
02-05-2018, 08:54 PM
#2
Drifting
Hey Sal, do you mean you touched the two terminals the fuse used to touch or you touched other terminals? If it's the two the fuse touches, I don't see how that did anything (unless the fuse was already blown due to a short).
Didn't you just have a blown fuse for a headlight motor after searching for a part on a different thread?
Didn't you just have a blown fuse for a headlight motor after searching for a part on a different thread?
02-05-2018, 09:03 PM
#3
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Help: Did a really stupid thing... accidentally shorted fuse 13, BCM Ignition
I did a really, really, really stupid thing.
I was searching for a fuse to pull to keep the engine from starting for when it was to be stored outside for a couple of days in a slightly sketchy neighborhood on a proposed trip. [2003 C5 Anniversary Edition hatchback].
I used a small screwdriver to help pry out fuse 13, BCM Ignition in the passenger compartment, under R side footwell]. Yes, really stupid.
In doing so, I accidentally shorted across the fuse terminals. It seems I now have a permanent kill switch.
I replaced the fuse, kicking myself mentally, but when key is turned to Start, lights dim slightly, nothing happens, no noise from anywhere.
In ads for used BCMs, it say they must be programmed before use. Can I do this? Now that the car won't start, getting it anywhere will require towing. Can independent repair shops do the programming if I can't?
I'm a few miles from downtown Los Angeles, CA, if anyone knows of a good Corvette independent repair shop that could program a used BCM.
I feel really bad about hurting my baby.
Thank you kindly for help & info and kicking myself hard mentally,
Sal
I was searching for a fuse to pull to keep the engine from starting for when it was to be stored outside for a couple of days in a slightly sketchy neighborhood on a proposed trip. [2003 C5 Anniversary Edition hatchback].
I used a small screwdriver to help pry out fuse 13, BCM Ignition in the passenger compartment, under R side footwell]. Yes, really stupid.
In doing so, I accidentally shorted across the fuse terminals. It seems I now have a permanent kill switch.
I replaced the fuse, kicking myself mentally, but when key is turned to Start, lights dim slightly, nothing happens, no noise from anywhere.
In ads for used BCMs, it say they must be programmed before use. Can I do this? Now that the car won't start, getting it anywhere will require towing. Can independent repair shops do the programming if I can't?
I'm a few miles from downtown Los Angeles, CA, if anyone knows of a good Corvette independent repair shop that could program a used BCM.
I feel really bad about hurting my baby.
Thank you kindly for help & info and kicking myself hard mentally,
Sal
02-05-2018, 10:50 PM
#4
Intermediate
Thread Starter
The screwdriver bridged the terminals under the fuse as I was prying it out and a neighbor's son was in the driver's seat with his hand on the key to try to start as I was working on the fusebox. He was eager to help and to start the engine and evidently was holding the key in the Start position. The fuse blew out and replacing it doesn't help.
And Yes, I had posted about a problem with my left headlight not popping up and eventually found that the fuse diagram inside the cover of the underhood fuse box was incorrect, at least as far as my car is concerned: It called out fuse 4 for left headlight motor, but it turns out that's for the right side; fuse 3, blown, is for the left side, which is called out as for the right side. I can post a photo of the fuse box cover diagram if you like.
In any case, the Corvette won't start, starter doesn't spin, no clicks, interior lights get a little dimmer while the key switch is in the Start position. But no start, I'm assuming shorting the fuse while it was powered killed the BCM and then suddenly everything went quiet.
And Yes, I had posted about a problem with my left headlight not popping up and eventually found that the fuse diagram inside the cover of the underhood fuse box was incorrect, at least as far as my car is concerned: It called out fuse 4 for left headlight motor, but it turns out that's for the right side; fuse 3, blown, is for the left side, which is called out as for the right side. I can post a photo of the fuse box cover diagram if you like.
In any case, the Corvette won't start, starter doesn't spin, no clicks, interior lights get a little dimmer while the key switch is in the Start position. But no start, I'm assuming shorting the fuse while it was powered killed the BCM and then suddenly everything went quiet.
Hey Sal, do you mean you touched the two terminals the fuse used to touch or you touched other terminals? If it's the two the fuse touches, I don't see how that did anything (unless the fuse was already blown due to a short).
Sal
Didn't you just have a blown fuse for a headlight motor after searching for a part on a different thread?
Sal
Didn't you just have a blown fuse for a headlight motor after searching for a part on a different thread?
02-05-2018, 11:00 PM
#5
Drifting
I guess I'm just confused because if the fuse wasn't blown, and it doesn't blow now, bridging the terminals was just like the fuse being installed. Did you check the other fuses? I don't understand how he had the key in the start position while you were working on the fuse - wouldn't it have been cranking?
It sounds like something else was touched as well.
I'm just trying to think this through.
You're certainly not winning the fuse lottery this week.
Also - the VATs should have prevented starting - correct?
It sounds like something else was touched as well.
I'm just trying to think this through.
You're certainly not winning the fuse lottery this week.
Also - the VATs should have prevented starting - correct?
Last edited by Ed Ramberger; 02-05-2018 at 11:06 PM.
02-06-2018, 01:32 AM
#6
Melting Slicks
Stupid question, are you sure the battery cable bolts are tight (or clamps as not sure if all C5 have battery cable bolts)
Once I tried starting my car and I heard a pop like a firecracker from under the hood, found one of the battery connections just loose enough to not make starter click or spin over, but dash lights and gauges worked.
Tightened it and it fixed it, I think the pop was a arc sound from loose cable to battery terminal.
Also is the battery charged enough?
Probably not these 2 things, but worth checking out.
Once I tried starting my car and I heard a pop like a firecracker from under the hood, found one of the battery connections just loose enough to not make starter click or spin over, but dash lights and gauges worked.
Tightened it and it fixed it, I think the pop was a arc sound from loose cable to battery terminal.
Also is the battery charged enough?
Probably not these 2 things, but worth checking out.
Last edited by 1999corvettels1; 02-06-2018 at 01:39 AM.
02-06-2018, 01:42 AM
#7
Intermediate
Thread Starter
More electrical gremlins... ?
Well, you're right, Ed, and I'm confused. Bridging a fuse when there's current through it should just be conducting as the fuse does.
Was it just a coincidence that the fuse blew when I was trying to get it out, as my neighbor's son had the key in the start position and I mistakenly thought it was because of a short circuit?
More gremlins: Tonight I went out into the garage and hit my fob to open the car and it started buzzing... buzzing... like a car alarm. Very, very loud. I could hear all the relays under the hood and under the dash turning on and off by themselves. Very weird.
I unhooked the battery as quickly as I could, that stopped all the noise then found the battery was almost dead so I put it on a charger, fast charge first then on trickle charge, I'll leave it overnight. The battery is 3 years old.
The VATS may give me a clue: Maybe the glitch of a coincidental fuse blowing somehow threw off the coding of the fob and VATS??? Tomorrow I will look up how to code the fob and keys to the car and try to do it.
I am just very confused at this point, I thought I had shorted a circuit, but was that fuse just ready to blow and I thought of a reason because of what I was doing at the time? And now VATS problems?
As Scarlett O'Hara said, "Tomorrow is another day."
Sal
Was it just a coincidence that the fuse blew when I was trying to get it out, as my neighbor's son had the key in the start position and I mistakenly thought it was because of a short circuit?
More gremlins: Tonight I went out into the garage and hit my fob to open the car and it started buzzing... buzzing... like a car alarm. Very, very loud. I could hear all the relays under the hood and under the dash turning on and off by themselves. Very weird.
I unhooked the battery as quickly as I could, that stopped all the noise then found the battery was almost dead so I put it on a charger, fast charge first then on trickle charge, I'll leave it overnight. The battery is 3 years old.
The VATS may give me a clue: Maybe the glitch of a coincidental fuse blowing somehow threw off the coding of the fob and VATS??? Tomorrow I will look up how to code the fob and keys to the car and try to do it.
I am just very confused at this point, I thought I had shorted a circuit, but was that fuse just ready to blow and I thought of a reason because of what I was doing at the time? And now VATS problems?
As Scarlett O'Hara said, "Tomorrow is another day."
Sal
I guess I'm just confused because if the fuse wasn't blown, and it doesn't blow now, bridging the terminals was just like the fuse being installed. Did you check the other fuses? I don't understand how he had the key in the start position while you were working on the fuse - wouldn't it have been cranking?
It sounds like something else was touched as well.
I'm just trying to think this through.
You're certainly not winning the fuse lottery this week.
Also - the VATs should have prevented starting - correct?
It sounds like something else was touched as well.
I'm just trying to think this through.
You're certainly not winning the fuse lottery this week.
Also - the VATs should have prevented starting - correct?
02-06-2018, 01:45 AM
#8
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Well, see my reply to Ed. Battery may have problems. It seems all the electrical gremlins are out after me this week. Very frustrating.
Sal
Sal
Stupid question, are you sure the battery cable bolts are tight (or clamps as not sure if all C5 have battery cable bolts)
Once I tried starting my car and I heard a pop like a firecracker from under the hood, found one of the battery connections just loose enough to not make starter click or spin over, but dash lights and gauges worked.
Tightened it and it fixed it, I think the pop was a arc sound from loose cable to battery terminal.
Also is the battery charged enough?
Probably not these 2 things, but worth checking out.
Once I tried starting my car and I heard a pop like a firecracker from under the hood, found one of the battery connections just loose enough to not make starter click or spin over, but dash lights and gauges worked.
Tightened it and it fixed it, I think the pop was a arc sound from loose cable to battery terminal.
Also is the battery charged enough?
Probably not these 2 things, but worth checking out.
Last edited by tondelayo; 02-06-2018 at 01:47 AM.
02-06-2018, 01:55 AM
#9
Melting Slicks
I hope after your battery is charged or replaced if it's bad, your car fires right up!
Sometimes we tend to overthink things and blow things out of proportion.
I like the movie Slingblade where Karl (Billy Bob Thornton) who is a mentally slow lawnmower mechanic takes off the fuel cap on a rototiller and says "it ain't got no gas in it mmm hmm" after the other guy checks to see if it has spark.
Gotta start with the most simple things. Lol
Sometimes we tend to overthink things and blow things out of proportion.
I like the movie Slingblade where Karl (Billy Bob Thornton) who is a mentally slow lawnmower mechanic takes off the fuel cap on a rototiller and says "it ain't got no gas in it mmm hmm" after the other guy checks to see if it has spark.
Gotta start with the most simple things. Lol
02-06-2018, 02:03 AM
#11
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Thanks for those instructions.
You can do the BCM-PCM Relearn procedure to get the replacement BCM to be able to start the car. Here is that procedure:
BCM/PCM RELEARN PROCEDURE
You will need to conduct the PCM/BCM relearn process. This matches their handshake ID's and allows them to talk to each other.
Do this before you worry about VATS issues:
1. Turn on the key for 11 minutes.
2 Turn off the key for 30 seconds.
3. Repeat 1&2 two more times.
4. Turn on the key for 30 seconds.
The car should start and run with the new BCM.
This will sync the PCM to the New BCM
Once the BCM and PCM are sync'ed up you can start and drive the car. However, RPO's that the car has installed MUST be programmed into the BCM using a TECH II. RPO's on the car must be turned on in the BCM. For example if your car had options like the F45 or F55 suspension, the BCM must be told its there. Similarly with wheher the car is a manual vs automatic, etc. You can get the RPO list from the Glove box door and if you have someone that has a TECH II you can do that yourself. Not all the RPO's listed on the Glove box door get programmed into the BCM.
As mentioned above the programming of the RPO's requires a Tech II device to accomplish.
Another alternative is to purchase a BCM from a supplier that can use your VIN to preprogram all aspects of the BCM to match what was in your car from the factory.
If you decide to do the BCM-PCM Relearn make certain that you have FULLY charged the battery BEFORE you start the procedure.
BCM/PCM RELEARN PROCEDURE
You will need to conduct the PCM/BCM relearn process. This matches their handshake ID's and allows them to talk to each other.
Do this before you worry about VATS issues:
1. Turn on the key for 11 minutes.
2 Turn off the key for 30 seconds.
3. Repeat 1&2 two more times.
4. Turn on the key for 30 seconds.
The car should start and run with the new BCM.
This will sync the PCM to the New BCM
Once the BCM and PCM are sync'ed up you can start and drive the car. However, RPO's that the car has installed MUST be programmed into the BCM using a TECH II. RPO's on the car must be turned on in the BCM. For example if your car had options like the F45 or F55 suspension, the BCM must be told its there. Similarly with wheher the car is a manual vs automatic, etc. You can get the RPO list from the Glove box door and if you have someone that has a TECH II you can do that yourself. Not all the RPO's listed on the Glove box door get programmed into the BCM.
As mentioned above the programming of the RPO's requires a Tech II device to accomplish.
Another alternative is to purchase a BCM from a supplier that can use your VIN to preprogram all aspects of the BCM to match what was in your car from the factory.
If you decide to do the BCM-PCM Relearn make certain that you have FULLY charged the battery BEFORE you start the procedure.
Sal
02-06-2018, 08:24 AM
#12
Drifting
Thanks - yes you're not having the best week.
02-06-2018, 10:42 AM
#13
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Yes, I will use the procedure to pull codes
There are many things that can cause a no crank no start on a C5.
Before you go off purchasing a replacement BCM assuming you have a fried BCM it would be appropriate to pull the codes stored and see if there is anything there that can help narrow down the cause.
If you have never pulled codes on your C5 here is how:
https://youtu.be/SviRjIsy9G4
Post ALL the codes stored including the H or C or HC that follows each 5 character code. List the codes under the sensor that they show with. ie 10 - PCM or 28 - TCS or 40 - BCM ....... etc ........ If any sensor shows NO COMM next to it post that also.
Before you go off purchasing a replacement BCM assuming you have a fried BCM it would be appropriate to pull the codes stored and see if there is anything there that can help narrow down the cause.
If you have never pulled codes on your C5 here is how:
https://youtu.be/SviRjIsy9G4
Post ALL the codes stored including the H or C or HC that follows each 5 character code. List the codes under the sensor that they show with. ie 10 - PCM or 28 - TCS or 40 - BCM ....... etc ........ If any sensor shows NO COMM next to it post that also.
Sal
02-06-2018, 11:03 AM
#14
Intermediate
Thread Starter
I hope after your battery is charged or replaced if it's bad, your car fires right up!
Sometimes we tend to overthink things and blow things out of proportion.
I like the movie Slingblade where Karl (Billy Bob Thornton) who is a mentally slow lawnmower mechanic takes off the fuel cap on a rototiller and says "it ain't got no gas in it mmm hmm" after the other guy checks to see if it has spark.
Gotta start with the most simple things. Lol
Sometimes we tend to overthink things and blow things out of proportion.
I like the movie Slingblade where Karl (Billy Bob Thornton) who is a mentally slow lawnmower mechanic takes off the fuel cap on a rototiller and says "it ain't got no gas in it mmm hmm" after the other guy checks to see if it has spark.
Gotta start with the most simple things. Lol
I sure hope it's simple. And if I get it up and running again, I will definitely stay away from fuses and electrical things that don't need fixing. I know basic electrical stuff, things happening in electronic circuits are like "magic" to me.
02-06-2018, 02:02 PM
#15
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Pulled DIC codes, there are a bunch...
There are many things that can cause a no crank no start on a C5.
Before you go off purchasing a replacement BCM assuming you have a fried BCM it would be appropriate to pull the codes stored and see if there is anything there that can help narrow down the cause.
If you have never pulled codes on your C5 here is how:
https://youtu.be/SviRjIsy9G4
Post ALL the codes stored including the H or C or HC that follows each 5 character code. List the codes under the sensor that they show with. ie 10 - PCM or 28 - TCS or 40 - BCM ....... etc ........ If any sensor shows NO COMM next to it post that also.
Before you go off purchasing a replacement BCM assuming you have a fried BCM it would be appropriate to pull the codes stored and see if there is anything there that can help narrow down the cause.
If you have never pulled codes on your C5 here is how:
https://youtu.be/SviRjIsy9G4
Post ALL the codes stored including the H or C or HC that follows each 5 character code. List the codes under the sensor that they show with. ie 10 - PCM or 28 - TCS or 40 - BCM ....... etc ........ If any sensor shows NO COMM next to it post that also.
38-RTD 1 CODE
C0620H Suspension Position Sensor Circuit
40-BCM 15 CODES
BO432H Rear Defogger Relay Circuit
B0502H RH DRL Relay Circuit
B0503H RH DRL Relay Circuit
B0507H LH DRL Relay Circuit
B0508H LH DRL Relay Circuit
B2482H Battery #1 Circuit
B2483H Battery #1 Circuit
B2527H Horn Relay Circuit
B2528H Horn Relay Circuit
B2567H Folding Top Release Switch Circuit [! It’s a hatchback!]
B2587H Column Lock/Unlock Drive A
B2592H Column Lock/Unlock Drive B
B2593H Column Lock/Unlock Drive B
B2809H ? DALE C, CF Senior Member, 12-17-2007: “B2809 is a service column lock code. I am sure it just set due to the low battery voltage with the key in.”
B3091H ? Bill Curlee, Tech Contributor 03-28-2016, “B3091 Content theft system sensor (Shock/Intrusion/etc.) signal circuit low”
AO-LDCM 2 CODES
B2282H Battery #1 Circuit
U1064H Lost Communication with BCM
A1-RDCM 2 CODES
B2283H Battery #1 Circuit
U1064H Lost Communication with BCM
Bunch of relay codes, I posted that I could hear relays under the hood and under the dash going crazy when I hit my fob last night to unlock the car. Disconnected battery then, checked it, very low on charge. Fast charged and then trickle-charged it during the night, it's at or near full charge now.
Same response to turning the key to Start: nothing.
Mighty discouraging, but these are all H, History codes. I have not cleared the codes.
Sal
02-06-2018, 05:12 PM
#16
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Aug 2013
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St. Jude Donor '15-'16-'17-'18-'19-'20-'21-'22
I did a really, really, really stupid thing.
I was searching for a fuse to pull to keep the engine from starting for when it was to be stored outside for a couple of days in a slightly sketchy neighborhood on a proposed trip. [2003 C5 Anniversary Edition hatchback].
I used a small screwdriver to help pry out fuse 13, BCM Ignition in the passenger compartment, under R side footwell]. Yes, really stupid.
In doing so, I accidentally shorted across the fuse terminals. It seems I now have a permanent kill switch.
I replaced the fuse, kicking myself mentally, but when key is turned to Start, lights dim slightly, nothing happens, no noise from anywhere.
In ads for used BCMs, it say they must be programmed before use. Can I do this? Now that the car won't start, getting it anywhere will require towing. Can independent repair shops do the programming if I can't?
I'm a few miles from downtown Los Angeles, CA, if anyone knows of a good Corvette independent repair shop that could program a used BCM.
I feel really bad about hurting my baby.
Thank you kindly for help & info and kicking myself hard mentally,
Sal
I was searching for a fuse to pull to keep the engine from starting for when it was to be stored outside for a couple of days in a slightly sketchy neighborhood on a proposed trip. [2003 C5 Anniversary Edition hatchback].
I used a small screwdriver to help pry out fuse 13, BCM Ignition in the passenger compartment, under R side footwell]. Yes, really stupid.
In doing so, I accidentally shorted across the fuse terminals. It seems I now have a permanent kill switch.
I replaced the fuse, kicking myself mentally, but when key is turned to Start, lights dim slightly, nothing happens, no noise from anywhere.
In ads for used BCMs, it say they must be programmed before use. Can I do this? Now that the car won't start, getting it anywhere will require towing. Can independent repair shops do the programming if I can't?
I'm a few miles from downtown Los Angeles, CA, if anyone knows of a good Corvette independent repair shop that could program a used BCM.
I feel really bad about hurting my baby.
Thank you kindly for help & info and kicking myself hard mentally,
Sal
Warren/spot 28 (626) 447-0219
American Heritage Performance (310) 326-2399
02-06-2018, 06:15 PM
#17
Drifting
There are two threads running on this exact topic - you should have them merged
02-06-2018, 06:15 PM
#18
Drifting
There are two threads running on this exact topic - you should have them merged
02-06-2018, 08:43 PM
#19
Intermediate
Thread Starter
How to contact moderator?
I had noticed something strange, that links in some emails led to a thread where some answers appeared, other links led to a thread with other answers. I was having trouble with previewing, editing and then submitting the post when I first posted.
How do I contact a moderator?
How do I contact a moderator?
02-07-2018, 12:09 AM
#20
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Requested 2 threads this topic be merged into 1
OK, Done. Thanks for the instructions to find mods.