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What happens to EBCM when dropping entire drivetrain?

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Old 02-20-2018, 11:13 AM
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nsogiba
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Default What happens to EBCM when dropping entire drivetrain?

I am in the middle of dropping the entire drivetrain front to rear in my 2000 FRC (front and rear cradle, engine, TT, trans, diff, etc).

What happens to the EBCM and associated brake lines when the front cradle drops? From what I'm seeing it's either:
1) disconnect brake lines to EBCM or brake master cylinder and drop the EBCM with the cradle, or
2) unmount the EBCM from the front cradle via its 5 bolts and let it stay right behind the radiator.

From the research I did it seems like most everyone drops the drivetrain with the EBCM still attached to the cradle. I want to avoid opening the brake system more than I have to.

Thoughts?
Old 02-20-2018, 11:55 AM
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DetroitPlac
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Unbolt from the cradle, and zip tie it to the body so it doesn't just dangle from the brake lines. There's also a brake line that runs along the cradle under the rack, you'll need to remove the rack or bend the the line to get that one out with the body.

It's not too bad overall.
Old 02-20-2018, 11:55 AM
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DetroitPlac
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BTW, do the same thing with the AC compressor so you don't have to evacuate the AC system.
Old 02-20-2018, 01:00 PM
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oharal
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I disconnected the brake lines. No issues.
Old 02-20-2018, 01:03 PM
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nsogiba
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Originally Posted by DetroitPlac
Unbolt from the cradle, and zip tie it to the body so it doesn't just dangle from the brake lines. There's also a brake line that runs along the cradle under the rack, you'll need to remove the rack or bend the the line to get that one out with the body.

It's not too bad overall.
Thanks. I definitely made more work for myself thinking that the EBCM had to stay with the cradle, as I disconnected the 2 lines going from the brake master to the EBCM. Later reconnected them after I realized my mistake. Oh well, I will have to rebleed anyways since I'm installing new stainless lines at the calipers.

I already have one of the steering rack bolts removed, so the other will be easy to get out (18mm). Prefer not to bend the lines.

AC compressor was removed anyways since it was leaking (lots of green splooge on the rack underneath it.

Originally Posted by oharal
I disconnected the brake lines. No issues.
How difficult was bleeding once it was all back together? Did you need to use a Tech2 to actuate the ABS unit? Some cars need to have that done to truly purge the system.
Old 02-21-2018, 10:17 PM
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SG Lou
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Originally Posted by nsogiba



How difficult was bleeding once it was all back together? Did you need to use a Tech2 to actuate the ABS unit? Some cars need to have that done to truly purge the system.
Yes , I would do it that way just to make sure you got all of the air out of the system.
Old 02-22-2018, 10:17 AM
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oharal
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I bought a knockoff Tech2 to do the full bleed for around 300 bucks. It works great. Be warned, the automatic bleed procedure uses A TONNNN of fluid! Luckily I was prepared. I recommend doing it same as me, buy cheap fluid like two quart bottles of autozone special dot3 or whatever. Collect the fluid from the caliper in a bottle so you can dump it right back into the master cyl bottle when it gets low. Go around and around and around until its done. When the procedure completes, come back through with your RBF600 or other good dot4 fluid as you normally would.

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