Elec. Question.
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 4,776
Likes: 142
From: North of Atlanta GA
St. Jude Donor '05
Yea, what about those wires in the left door, have you done a detailed inspection?
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 3,699
Likes: 16
From: Sun City- Menifee Calif.
I`m wondering if maybe disconnecting the oil temp sensor , and see if that makes a difference? Whatcha think Bill?
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 3,699
Likes: 16
From: Sun City- Menifee Calif.
OK, I cleared codes, unhooked batt. installed new coolant temp sensor, hooked batt. up started car, coolant temp flashed xxx for couple seconds. then went to normal, car running normal , ran codes, only had a BO 605H . Cleared it. Car has been running for 10 min. now Coolant temp. at 180 deg. everything is normal. so far. Can`t find code BO 605 anywhere. ? D.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 3,699
Likes: 16
From: Sun City- Menifee Calif.
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 4,776
Likes: 142
From: North of Atlanta GA
St. Jude Donor '05
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 3,699
Likes: 16
From: Sun City- Menifee Calif.
Here is the latest. Installed new ign. switch , Went easier than expected!
How ever Bill`s odds were correct! Did not help. So at least can rule that out. I went for drive and after a short dist. car misfired like before, Oil temp went to low, No codes, pulled with engine still running. So I checked all fuses in both locations, All seemed good. How ever 10 amp. fuse # 22 in floor, (body control module- ign. 3) was missing. So I put one in. Started car everything normal. except Coolant temp would bounce back and forth between like 185 and 195, kept that up for 5-10 minutes running in garage, Then I revved it a couple times to maybe 4 -4500 and gauge steadied out. car was running perfect the whole time. I`m thinking this has got to be something simple. I am not good with elec. stuff , But will go over grounds etc. again in next few days. I hope what happened this time might help with diagnosis. Thanks so much for any help!!! P. S. Every time after shutting eng. off with oil temp reading low, the next time starting few minutes later It will be reading correctly again.
How ever Bill`s odds were correct! Did not help. So at least can rule that out. I went for drive and after a short dist. car misfired like before, Oil temp went to low, No codes, pulled with engine still running. So I checked all fuses in both locations, All seemed good. How ever 10 amp. fuse # 22 in floor, (body control module- ign. 3) was missing. So I put one in. Started car everything normal. except Coolant temp would bounce back and forth between like 185 and 195, kept that up for 5-10 minutes running in garage, Then I revved it a couple times to maybe 4 -4500 and gauge steadied out. car was running perfect the whole time. I`m thinking this has got to be something simple. I am not good with elec. stuff , But will go over grounds etc. again in next few days. I hope what happened this time might help with diagnosis. Thanks so much for any help!!! P. S. Every time after shutting eng. off with oil temp reading low, the next time starting few minutes later It will be reading correctly again.
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 4,776
Likes: 142
From: North of Atlanta GA
St. Jude Donor '05
Here is the latest. Installed new ign. switch , Went easier than expected!
How ever Bill`s odds were correct! Did not help. So at least can rule that out. I went for drive and after a short dist. car misfired like before, Oil temp went to low, No codes, pulled with engine still running. So I checked all fuses in both locations, All seemed good. How ever 10 amp. fuse # 22 in floor, (body control module- ign. 3) was missing. So I put one in. Started car everything normal. except Coolant temp would bounce back and forth between like 185 and 195, kept that up for 5-10 minutes running in garage, Then I revved it a couple times to maybe 4 -4500 and gauge steadied out. car was running perfect the whole time. I`m thinking this has got to be something simple. I am not good with elec. stuff , But will go over grounds etc. again in next few days. I hope what happened this time might help with diagnosis. Thanks so much for any help!!! P. S. Every time after shutting eng. off with oil temp reading low, the next time starting few minutes later It will be reading correctly again.
How ever Bill`s odds were correct! Did not help. So at least can rule that out. I went for drive and after a short dist. car misfired like before, Oil temp went to low, No codes, pulled with engine still running. So I checked all fuses in both locations, All seemed good. How ever 10 amp. fuse # 22 in floor, (body control module- ign. 3) was missing. So I put one in. Started car everything normal. except Coolant temp would bounce back and forth between like 185 and 195, kept that up for 5-10 minutes running in garage, Then I revved it a couple times to maybe 4 -4500 and gauge steadied out. car was running perfect the whole time. I`m thinking this has got to be something simple. I am not good with elec. stuff , But will go over grounds etc. again in next few days. I hope what happened this time might help with diagnosis. Thanks so much for any help!!! P. S. Every time after shutting eng. off with oil temp reading low, the next time starting few minutes later It will be reading correctly again.
I had faith the ignition switch would do it.So ECM, PCM or some stupid wire somewhere is causing all this grief?
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Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 3,699
Likes: 16
From: Sun City- Menifee Calif.
So, Today, T cleaned all the grounds, pulled battery out and the panel where it sits . no moisture around BCM. Did find a 5/16" wrench I dropped down there years ago. Anyway, got it all back together, Started, everything normal got about 1/2 block and misfired and oil temp went to low. Got back changed out oil sensor with the one I had changed out with the coolant one Sun. Which is a new Duralast. Started up , and coolant normal, bur oil temp not coming up read around 75-80 deg. Coolant was normal around 186deg. So I had read online that if you disconnect the sensor, and it goes to LOW, it is a bad sensor. So, I did that and sure enough it went to LOW on the DIC. Started car, ran normal with oil temp LOW. So I`m thinking the one I put in was the one that would not come up to normal temp in the coolant position before. So, I am thinking to try one more new oil temp sensor. Just one question. if there is a prob. somewhere in wiring or PCM that could possibly blow these sensors? Thank you! D.
Anyway, got it all back together, Started, everything normal got about 1/2 block and misfired and oil temp went to low. Got back changed out oil sensor with the one I had changed out with the coolant one Sun. Which is a new Duralast. Started up , and coolant normal, bur oil temp not coming up read around 75-80 deg. Coolant was normal around 186deg. So I had read online that if you disconnect the sensor, and it goes to LOW, it is a bad sensor. So, I did that and sure enough it went to LOW on the DIC. Started car, ran normal with oil temp LOW. So I`m thinking the one I put in was the one that would not come up to normal temp in the coolant position before. So, I am thinking to try one more new oil temp sensor. Just one question. if there is a prob. somewhere in wiring or PCM that could possibly blow these sensors? Thank you! D.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 3,699
Likes: 16
From: Sun City- Menifee Calif.
So, Today, T cleaned all the grounds, pulled battery out and the panel where it sits . no moisture around BCM. Did find a 5/16" wrench I dropped down there years ago. Anyway, got it all back together, Started, everything normal got about 1/2 block and misfired and oil temp went to low. Got back changed out oil sensor with the one I had changed out with the coolant one Sun. Which is a new Duralast. Started up , and coolant normal, bur oil temp not coming up read around 75-80 deg. Coolant was normal around 186deg. So I had read online that if you disconnect the sensor, and it goes to LOW, it is a bad sensor. So, I did that and sure enough it went to LOW on the DIC. Started car, ran normal with oil temp LOW. So I`m thinking the one I put in was the one that would not come up to normal temp in the coolant position before. So, I am thinking to try one more new oil temp sensor. Just one question. if there is a prob. somewhere in wiring or PCM that could possibly blow these sensors? Thank you! D.
Anyway, got it all back together, Started, everything normal got about 1/2 block and misfired and oil temp went to low. Got back changed out oil sensor with the one I had changed out with the coolant one Sun. Which is a new Duralast. Started up , and coolant normal, bur oil temp not coming up read around 75-80 deg. Coolant was normal around 186deg. So I had read online that if you disconnect the sensor, and it goes to LOW, it is a bad sensor. So, I did that and sure enough it went to LOW on the DIC. Started car, ran normal with oil temp LOW. So I`m thinking the one I put in was the one that would not come up to normal temp in the coolant position before. So, I am thinking to try one more new oil temp sensor. Just one question. if there is a prob. somewhere in wiring or PCM that could possibly blow these sensors? Thank you! D. C 5 dash while running, and it was doing the EXACT same thing as mine is. I think it turned out to be the PCM. As I recall, he had done all the same things as me (grounds etc.) Thoughts? Thanks, D.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Until you get a meter and read the REFF VOLTAGE on the seneor we cant really answer the question.
Its SUPPOSE to be 5 VDC .
IF,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, The wires are SHORTED to a 12 VDC source, SURE, it could damage the new sensor. IF,,,,,, Its 5 VDC, then NO, the reff voltage usually cant or shouldnt damage the sensor.
WHERE CAN THAT DAMAGE HAPPEN?? We already discussed that. The wire harness on the drivers side of the manifod where it runs down to the back of the engine SEEN it happen a DOZEN TIMES!!!
Untape the harness and inspect the wire for chaffing.
You really sould use a meter and read the sensor in COLD and HOT water and see if it has the correct resistance and resistance sweep from HOT to cold and cold to hot.
Its SUPPOSE to be 5 VDC .
IF,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, The wires are SHORTED to a 12 VDC source, SURE, it could damage the new sensor. IF,,,,,, Its 5 VDC, then NO, the reff voltage usually cant or shouldnt damage the sensor.
WHERE CAN THAT DAMAGE HAPPEN?? We already discussed that. The wire harness on the drivers side of the manifod where it runs down to the back of the engine SEEN it happen a DOZEN TIMES!!!
Untape the harness and inspect the wire for chaffing.
You really sould use a meter and read the sensor in COLD and HOT water and see if it has the correct resistance and resistance sweep from HOT to cold and cold to hot.
Last edited by Bill Curlee; Mar 12, 2018 at 09:37 PM.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 3,699
Likes: 16
From: Sun City- Menifee Calif.
Until you get a meter and read the REFF VOLTAGE on the seneor we cant really answer the question.
Its SUPPOSE to be 5 VDC .
IF,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, The wires are SHORTED to a 12 VDC source, SURE, it could damage the new sensor. IF,,,,,, Its 5 VDC, then NO, the reff voltage usually cant or shouldnt damage the sensor.
WHERE CAN THAT DAMAGE HAPPEN?? We already discussed that. The wire harness on the drivers side of the manifod where it runs down to the back of the engine SEEN it happen a DOZEN TIMES!!!
Untape the harness and inspect the wire for chaffing.
You really sould use a meter and read the sensor in COLD and HOT water and see if it has the correct resistance and resistance sweep from HOT to cold and cold to hot.
Its SUPPOSE to be 5 VDC .
IF,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, The wires are SHORTED to a 12 VDC source, SURE, it could damage the new sensor. IF,,,,,, Its 5 VDC, then NO, the reff voltage usually cant or shouldnt damage the sensor.
WHERE CAN THAT DAMAGE HAPPEN?? We already discussed that. The wire harness on the drivers side of the manifod where it runs down to the back of the engine SEEN it happen a DOZEN TIMES!!!
Untape the harness and inspect the wire for chaffing.
You really sould use a meter and read the sensor in COLD and HOT water and see if it has the correct resistance and resistance sweep from HOT to cold and cold to hot.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
On ALL stock LS1/LS6 engines, there is a BLACK METAL BRACKET at the rear of the drivers side fuel rail. On some cars the harness is pulled too tight over the edge of that bracket and it damages the wires. The area is near the rear #7 Injector.
I have seen other harnesses have wire insulation issues for no reasons at all and if it were ME, I just would untape the harness and inspect the wires.
I have seen other harnesses have wire insulation issues for no reasons at all and if it were ME, I just would untape the harness and inspect the wires.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 3,699
Likes: 16
From: Sun City- Menifee Calif.
On ALL stock LS1/LS6 engines, there is a BLACK METAL BRACKET at the rear of the drivers side fuel rail. On some cars the harness is pulled too tight over the edge of that bracket and it damages the wires. The area is near the rear #7 Injector.
I have seen other harnesses have wire insulation issues for no reasons at all and if it were ME, I just would untape the harness and inspect the wires.
I have seen other harnesses have wire insulation issues for no reasons at all and if it were ME, I just would untape the harness and inspect the wires.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Thanks! Thats my next step! To day with both new sensors in I drove the car50-60 miles or so no problems, Then later I was going to Autozone to get MAF sensor cleaner, and within half block It started again, Misfire oil temp low etc. made it home left running ran codes, had only the P1115HC code,( intermittent high voltage ETC circuit.) So looks like its a ground. My Question Bill, is the most likely place for the prob where the wires go through the bracket at rear of engine? And if so, what is the best way to get to that area to untape the wires? Looks very hard to get in there. I am ok turning wrenches but electrical not so much. Is it worth looking up by the Alt. where the sensor is first? I can see that the harness is rubbing the bracket in the back of engine, but does not look like its rubbed through . Again Bill thanks so much for your help . Dennis.
Hmmmmmmmmmm,,,,,,,,, There isnt a GROUND for that circuit (persay)
There is a 5 VDC REFERENCE WIRE and a (LOW REFERENCE ) signal wire. That sensor does NOT connect to ANY GROUND! PERIOD!
If I had to GUESS (I guess pretty good) I woud say that some wires are bare "SOMEWHERE" from the connector to the PCM.
SO,,,,,,, BROTHER,,,, Start at the connector and start UN-TAPEING the harness. You can get the vinal tape at any electrical supply house (HOME DEPOT) and easily retape the harness.
GET HOT!!