Streetable converter for DD with bolt ons
03-14-2018, 04:12 PM
#1
Melting Slicks
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St. Jude Donor '13, '15
Streetable converter for DD with bolt ons
Hello folks. I always do searches for my questions before posting, and this one was no different. But I felt like I needed to get this a bit more specific to my application after reading through countless posts that weren't exactly what I have.
I'm tossing around the idea of swapping my rear 2.73's for a 3.42 setup and since I believe my front seal may have a very small leak, I figured it would be great time to think about a higher stall as well. I'd likely source parts this year and get the install done next year (to be easier on the budget). So unless the leak gets worse, I'm not in a huge hurry to make this all happen if at all.
Car is a 2004 coupe with CAI, catted LT's, x-pipe, and exhaust. LS6 intake came stock on the coupes this year, heads are 241 casting and LS1 cam. I daily drive this car all around town, mostly local stop and go. NO plans on racing or ever adding a power adder (ie. Turbo, SC, Nitrous). Just an enjoyable street cruiser and occasional weekend car show participant. HP or ET are not my goals. Fixing the leak and adding some pep is what this is all about. Someday I may consider 243 heads and a very mild cam.
I've done some brief research on a few different torque converters and wanted to see if anyone had any experience with them and was similar in mods/goals to give some feedback.
1. TCI Breakaway 2400 (Model# 242800). Rated up to 700HP, 2400 stall, designed for street/strip. One site I reviewed said it is only for lock-up transmissions...Jeg's stated it does not fit an LS1, but did fit my 2004 coupe?
2. Yank Stealth Thruster 2800 (Model# 302-ST)? Highly regarded brand name I've noticed on the forum, designed for street/strip. Not sure if this high of stall requires a tranny cooler? Would like to avoid and stall may be too much for me?
3. Pro Torque Street Muscle Series or Pro Drive series. Both rated 2400 stall minimum, but could be ordered with more. Designed for daily street use, no tranny cooler needed. West Coast Corvette uses this one in a package deal with rear end.
As you can see I'm sticking in the 2400-2800 range for stall. Anything higher I believe it will sacrifice driveability and make me regret the purchase and not want to drive the car. Interested to hear thoughts on these specific units and others that I may not have considered with similar manners.
I'm tossing around the idea of swapping my rear 2.73's for a 3.42 setup and since I believe my front seal may have a very small leak, I figured it would be great time to think about a higher stall as well. I'd likely source parts this year and get the install done next year (to be easier on the budget). So unless the leak gets worse, I'm not in a huge hurry to make this all happen if at all.
Car is a 2004 coupe with CAI, catted LT's, x-pipe, and exhaust. LS6 intake came stock on the coupes this year, heads are 241 casting and LS1 cam. I daily drive this car all around town, mostly local stop and go. NO plans on racing or ever adding a power adder (ie. Turbo, SC, Nitrous). Just an enjoyable street cruiser and occasional weekend car show participant. HP or ET are not my goals. Fixing the leak and adding some pep is what this is all about. Someday I may consider 243 heads and a very mild cam.
I've done some brief research on a few different torque converters and wanted to see if anyone had any experience with them and was similar in mods/goals to give some feedback.
1. TCI Breakaway 2400 (Model# 242800). Rated up to 700HP, 2400 stall, designed for street/strip. One site I reviewed said it is only for lock-up transmissions...Jeg's stated it does not fit an LS1, but did fit my 2004 coupe?
2. Yank Stealth Thruster 2800 (Model# 302-ST)? Highly regarded brand name I've noticed on the forum, designed for street/strip. Not sure if this high of stall requires a tranny cooler? Would like to avoid and stall may be too much for me?
3. Pro Torque Street Muscle Series or Pro Drive series. Both rated 2400 stall minimum, but could be ordered with more. Designed for daily street use, no tranny cooler needed. West Coast Corvette uses this one in a package deal with rear end.
As you can see I'm sticking in the 2400-2800 range for stall. Anything higher I believe it will sacrifice driveability and make me regret the purchase and not want to drive the car. Interested to hear thoughts on these specific units and others that I may not have considered with similar manners.
03-14-2018, 05:25 PM
#2
I would suggest riding in/driving someone’s car with a converter to see what stall speeds you feel most comfortable with because otherwise it’s really just speculation. I will say, don’t be afraid of a higher number. You would be amazed at how civil a 3000+ stall speed converter will drive if it’s high quality and tight. I’ve run a number of converters over the years and I will also say that it’s not a part to cheap out on. It’s truly the most important/best mod you can do to an automatic car, period. Go with a high quality 9.5” one such as a Yank, Circle D, FTI, etc. Also make sure it’s a tight converter, I don’t think you will care much for a loose one. Based upon my personal experiences with many different converters, I would recommend a Yank SS3200 to you. Really nice mild converter, very tight, hardly know it’s there until you lay into it. If I had an auto Corvette that was a DD that’s the converter I’d put in it. It’s does noting but enhance the drivability. I would not go smaller nor would I go larger in your case. As with any larger than stock converter, I don’t care what size, a trans cooler is a must. Ask me how I know. Larger than stock converters create more heat and heat is the number one killer of an automatic transmission. A trans cooler is cheap insurance. I’ve run a simple B&M 70264 on 4 different cars now with success. Cheap and easy to install. There’s better ones out there but not necessary in your case.
Forgot to add, I advised a friend of mine to put an SS3200 into his mild bolt-on street car and he loves it, even wishes he had gone a tad larger. Those converters really drive great. As I mentioned, FTI and Circle D also have great options you could consider. I’ve had three Yanks so I tend to favor them but you have some nice options to choose from. Would be worth calling these companies and asking for their suggestions as well.
Forgot to add, I advised a friend of mine to put an SS3200 into his mild bolt-on street car and he loves it, even wishes he had gone a tad larger. Those converters really drive great. As I mentioned, FTI and Circle D also have great options you could consider. I’ve had three Yanks so I tend to favor them but you have some nice options to choose from. Would be worth calling these companies and asking for their suggestions as well.
Last edited by wrkdWS6; 03-14-2018 at 05:38 PM.
03-14-2018, 09:32 PM
#3
Melting Slicks
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St. Jude Donor '13, '15
Can someone explain what it means for a converter to be "tight"?
I will look into others with a higher stall, unfortunately nobody I know near me that has an automatic and modified, so riding in one will be a long shot.
I certainly don't plan to cheap out, in fact didn't think I was with the options I was looking at. I appreciate the other brands mentioned, I will look into those as well.
I will look into others with a higher stall, unfortunately nobody I know near me that has an automatic and modified, so riding in one will be a long shot.
I certainly don't plan to cheap out, in fact didn't think I was with the options I was looking at. I appreciate the other brands mentioned, I will look into those as well.
03-15-2018, 07:38 AM
#4
When I meant cheap I was mainly referring to the TCI brand converter. Im not familiar with the ProTorque so I’m not sure where they fall. In addition, I was also referring to the actual converters selected. No matter the brand, I’d recommend a billet 9.5” unit, not the cheaper, heavier, larger diameter non-billet ones. Here’s a thread that explains why I’d stay away from the cheaper units:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...education.html
As far as tight, I’ll to do my best to explain. There’s converters that can be tight or loose. I’ve had both and there’s pros/cons. For a street car, tight is preferred because it enables very good throttle response. A loose converter can tend to feel more mushy and will take more throttle input or rpm to move along. A tight converter will feel more natural and you won’t notice the converter as much when driving around.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...education.html
As far as tight, I’ll to do my best to explain. There’s converters that can be tight or loose. I’ve had both and there’s pros/cons. For a street car, tight is preferred because it enables very good throttle response. A loose converter can tend to feel more mushy and will take more throttle input or rpm to move along. A tight converter will feel more natural and you won’t notice the converter as much when driving around.
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03-15-2018, 11:59 AM
#5
Melting Slicks
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St. Jude Donor '13, '15
That article was a good read and now I understand why the billet cover is desired for long term durability. I plan to do this once only.
As a result, I have pulled the TCI unit from my list of prospective purchase candidates. Similarly the ProTorque units were removed. I can't seem to find any information that the two series I was considering had a billet front cover. The ones that do are more for pro racers than for my application. FTI did not have anything listed on their site for a C5, so I dropped them.
PI Vigilantes I read in a prior CF thread were looser and better suited to higher HP racing applications.
So that leaves the Yank SS series and the Circle D HP Series. The Circle D HP series is for performance daily drivers. It is an 11" converter, but you can get an optional billet cover for $200 more. This puts it just slightly less money than a comparable Yank, but the Yank would be 9.5" billet. To get a Circle D in 9.5" or even 10.25" you need to step up to their Pro Series, which is not likely suited to my application.
As a result, I have pulled the TCI unit from my list of prospective purchase candidates. Similarly the ProTorque units were removed. I can't seem to find any information that the two series I was considering had a billet front cover. The ones that do are more for pro racers than for my application. FTI did not have anything listed on their site for a C5, so I dropped them.
PI Vigilantes I read in a prior CF thread were looser and better suited to higher HP racing applications.
So that leaves the Yank SS series and the Circle D HP Series. The Circle D HP series is for performance daily drivers. It is an 11" converter, but you can get an optional billet cover for $200 more. This puts it just slightly less money than a comparable Yank, but the Yank would be 9.5" billet. To get a Circle D in 9.5" or even 10.25" you need to step up to their Pro Series, which is not likely suited to my application.
03-15-2018, 01:32 PM
#6
Burning Brakes
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Call FTI and speak to them about your goals. Speak to Justin and he will take your input and make some suggestions. It is probably better to call those on your list instead of just looking online.
03-15-2018, 02:56 PM
#7
Safety Car
I had a Vig 2800 before with 3.42, didn't find it too loose...great set up...I have a Yank 3800 now to suit the current mods...a bit too tight for my liking..
