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1. Has anyone done a clutch this way without completely dropping the rear end?
2. Can you add the clutch kit, master cylinder, pilot bearing, release bearing, drive shift flex joints and slave with bearing using this technique?
Watch "Replacing a Clutch on a Corvette | Two Guys Garage". Under 10 minutes.
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
C5 of Year Winner (performance mods) 2019
I don't see where they shaved hours off of the install, they didn't remove the bellhousing but that isn't going to save that much time... not to mention some clutches you may not be able to install with the bellhousing still bolted onto the engine and if you need to replace the rear main seal or cover gasket then the bellhousing will have to come off anyway
I don't see where they shaved hours off of the install, they didn't remove the bellhousing but that isn't going to save that much time... not to mention some clutches you may not be able to install with the bellhousing still bolted onto the engine and if you need to replace the rear main seal or cover gasket then the bellhousing will have to come off anyway
I guess that's part of what I'm looking for having never done the clutch yet. I'm getting about 8 hours or so but this just seemed so much quicker. Just an illusion then?
what seems quicker to you besides the heavily edited short video?
As I said never having done this before I have nothing to compare to. If they're not completely removing the rear it certainly seems faster but by how much I couldn't comment.
Hoping the experts will chime in
Also, getting that pilot bearing out can be a bear with the driveline still in the way. I've had one come out easily and one was extremely difficult, even with the dedicated puller.
I've heard of guys doing it this way in a matter of a couple of hours with practice but I personally don't like to rush or cut corners with stuff like this.
I could easily use this method as I have the lift and tools to do it but I've always just pulled the rear and TT.
Also, getting that pilot bearing out can be a bear with the driveline still in the way. I've had one come out easily and one was extremely difficult, even with the dedicated puller.
I've heard of guys doing it this way in a matter of a couple of hours with practice but I personally don't like to rush or cut corners with stuff like this.
I hear ya. I figure if there are complications like a stubborn bearing as you mentioned, one could always continue to tear it down further at that point.
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
C5 of Year Winner (performance mods) 2019
they pretty much already have it tore down, that's the thing... from what I can see they didn't take off the brake calipers and parking brake cables which is just a few more bolts but that's the only other thing holding the complete rear end in the car... they also have a lift so they didn't have to lower it to the ground and out of the way like you might need to do if you're working on jack stands but that would take all of a few more mins if they needed to move it... it might look easier on a short video but there is nothing groundbreaking or saving you a ton of time or labor costs in my opinion... even if a shop did it in a way to save them time they would probably charge you the normal amount anyway, that's how shops make money
they pretty much already have it tore down, that's the thing... from what I can see they didn't take off the brake calipers and parking brake cables which is just a few more bolts but that's the only other thing holding the complete rear end in the car... they also have a lift so they didn't have to lower it to the ground and out of the way like you might need to do if you're working on jack stands but that would take all of a few more mins if they needed to move it... it might look easier on a short video but there is nothing groundbreaking or saving you a ton of time or labor costs in my opinion... even if a shop did it in a way to save them time they would probably charge you the normal amount anyway, that's how shops make money
Okay fair enough. Is 8 hours about average for this then?
My entire assembly had to come all the way down due to the transmission rebuild, but if dropping it down THAT far means not having to dick with the wiring harness, brakes, axles (fuel line), AND there are no complications, then I could see it all happening pretty quickly.
My entire assembly had to come all the way down due to the transmission rebuild, but if dropping it down THAT far means not having to dick with the wiring harness, brakes, axles (fuel line), AND there are no complications, then I could see it all happening pretty quickly.
I had to LOL when I saw all of those broken pullers. YES, that pilot bearing can be a real pain to get in an out. IT IS A MUST CHANGE PART!!!!!! If you don't change it, it will most likely fail shortly after the drive train reinstall!!!
I have found that IF, you heat the crank flange just a little (around 150 deg) it comes out and goes in MUCH EASIER!!
If your car has near or over 100,000 miles, you may want to consider pulling the Torque tube and inspecting and replacing the stock rubber couplers inside. They most likely will be very deteriorated and cracked (ready to fail)!! You should also be ready to replace the TT bearings if they are loose or rough.
That Vid procedure is at the most a SHORT CUT and there are numerous other things that SHOULD BE looked at/inspected and repaired if necessary
ONE EXAMPLE:
Differential output shaft seals "Should be replaced" They will most likely leak after the reinstall if they are not already.
Huh? I didn't see those guys do anything on their clutch job that I didn't do on my own—and I only had jackstands. You don't need to drag the whole drivetrain out from under the car, all you gotta do is move it back a foot or two to give yourself enough room to sling the slide hammer for the pilot bearing.
Huh? I didn't see those guys do anything on their clutch job that I didn't do on my own—and I only had jackstands. You don't need to drag the whole drivetrain out from under the car, all you gotta do is move it back a foot or two to give yourself enough room to sling the slide hammer for the pilot bearing.
Good to know! Does the torque tube stay intact then while this happens?
They undid everything you have to undo to pull the whole motor back part of the drivetrain out from under the car. Not "messing" with the brake lines or wiring is just not disconnecting a few clips and connectors holding the lines and wires.
As already mentioned, it's not a bad idea to pull the torque tube apart to make sure everything is OK inside. It's also a good idea to pull the half shafts and replace the seals in the differential.
So, the shortcut doesn't really gain much and it doesn't allow you to do some of things you should be doing while you're at it.
The driveline drops out of these cars fairly easily. I just pulled the whole drivetrain out of a 2008 Vette as a complete assembly using a 2-post lift. It took about 2 hours to drop it.
03-18-2018, 05:53 PM
Potentially Huge Clutch Labour Savings
... from what I can see they didn't take off the brake calipers and parking brake cables which is just a few more bolts but that's the only other thing holding the complete rear end in the car... they also have a lift so they didn't have to lower it to the ground and out of the way like you might need to do if you're working on jack stands but that would take all of a few more mins if they needed to move it... it might look easier on a short video but there is nothing groundbreaking or saving you a ton of time or labor costs in my opinion... even if a shop did it in a way to save them time they would probably charge you the normal amount anyway, that's how shops make money
