99 wont start after cleaning throttle body & MAF
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
99 wont start after cleaning throttle body & MAF
Hey guys,
I decided to clean the MAF sensor & throttle body with the correct sprays CRC MAF & Throttle body sprays and now she wont start. I did not touch the sensor with anything but spray.
Getting the following codes
BO-FRA
U1016H
U1064H
U1096H
Car ran perfect last time out with no codes
I check all connections and I disconnected battery for a few minutes, can anyone tell me what I did wrong or what I can check?
The first time starting she ran for about 10 seconds then started running bad and stalled
The car now cranks, starts & stalls smell of gas like its flooded
I decided to clean the MAF sensor & throttle body with the correct sprays CRC MAF & Throttle body sprays and now she wont start. I did not touch the sensor with anything but spray.
Getting the following codes
BO-FRA
U1016H
U1064H
U1096H
Car ran perfect last time out with no codes
I check all connections and I disconnected battery for a few minutes, can anyone tell me what I did wrong or what I can check?
The first time starting she ran for about 10 seconds then started running bad and stalled
The car now cranks, starts & stalls smell of gas like its flooded
Last edited by pjdbm; 04-07-2018 at 06:56 PM.
#2
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Nov 1999
Location: MI
Posts: 2,073
Received 556 Likes
on
263 Posts
Cruise-In VI Veteran
Hey guys,
I decided to clean the MAF sensor & throttle body with the correct sprays CRC MAF & Throttle body sprays and now she wont start. I did not touch the sensor with anything but spray.
Getting the following codes
BO-FRA
U1016H
U1064H
U1096H
Car ran perfect last time out with no codes
I check all connections and I disconnected battery for a few minutes, can anyone tell me what I did wrong or what I can check?
The car cranks, starts & stalls smell of gas like its flooded
I decided to clean the MAF sensor & throttle body with the correct sprays CRC MAF & Throttle body sprays and now she wont start. I did not touch the sensor with anything but spray.
Getting the following codes
BO-FRA
U1016H
U1064H
U1096H
Car ran perfect last time out with no codes
I check all connections and I disconnected battery for a few minutes, can anyone tell me what I did wrong or what I can check?
The car cranks, starts & stalls smell of gas like its flooded
MAF Sensor>> Did you clean the MAF in Situ, or did you remove it from the car for cleaning? If you removed the MAF for cleaning, did you disassemble the MAF sensor from the MAF housing?
Throttle Body>> Did you clean the Throttle Body in Situ, or did you remove it from the car for cleaning? If you removed the Throttle Body for cleaning, did you disassemble the Throttle Body by removing the plate drive motor and throttle position sensor from the Throttle Body housing?
Is your "check engine" amber light illuminated "solid" when the engine was running, OR was the "check engine" amber light "Flashing Off/On" when the engine was running?
At first glance of your problem, I'm thinking the MAF Sensor might be the issue and NOTE> The MAF sensor is "airflow direction sensitive" meaning that the airflow has to be going the proper direction through the MAF sensor.
Post Up
Goose
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pjdbm (04-08-2018)
#4
Drifting
Thread Starter
In order to help you, can you please advise how you cleaned the throttle body/MAF Sensor;
MAF Sensor>> Did you clean the MAF in Situ, or did you remove it from the car for cleaning? If you removed the MAF for cleaning, did you disassemble the MAF sensor from the MAF housing?
Throttle Body>> Did you clean the Throttle Body in Situ, or did you remove it from the car for cleaning? If you removed the Throttle Body for cleaning, did you disassemble the Throttle Body by removing the plate drive motor and throttle position sensor from the Throttle Body housing?
Is your "check engine" amber light illuminated "solid" when the engine was running, OR was the "check engine" amber light "Flashing Off/On" when the engine was running?
At first glance of your problem, I'm thinking the MAF Sensor might be the issue and NOTE> The MAF sensor is "airflow direction sensitive" meaning that the airflow has to be going the proper direction through the MAF sensor.
Post Up
Goose
MAF Sensor>> Did you clean the MAF in Situ, or did you remove it from the car for cleaning? If you removed the MAF for cleaning, did you disassemble the MAF sensor from the MAF housing?
Throttle Body>> Did you clean the Throttle Body in Situ, or did you remove it from the car for cleaning? If you removed the Throttle Body for cleaning, did you disassemble the Throttle Body by removing the plate drive motor and throttle position sensor from the Throttle Body housing?
Is your "check engine" amber light illuminated "solid" when the engine was running, OR was the "check engine" amber light "Flashing Off/On" when the engine was running?
At first glance of your problem, I'm thinking the MAF Sensor might be the issue and NOTE> The MAF sensor is "airflow direction sensitive" meaning that the airflow has to be going the proper direction through the MAF sensor.
Post Up
Goose
The throttle body I let hang to avoid disconnecting the the coolant lines to it, I did not disassemble the motor but took off the harness. I thoroughly sprayed the throttle body while it was hanging and moved the throttle plate to clean it first by spray, then by a clean rag.
I dont remember seeing a check engine lite on while it was running.
Last edited by pjdbm; 04-07-2018 at 07:08 PM.
#5
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Nov 1999
Location: MI
Posts: 2,073
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Cruise-In VI Veteran
Reconnect the battery cable, try to start the motor and post up the results to the above questions.
Reference info
Testing a GM MAF Sensor
http://easyautodiagnostics.com/gm/4....e-maf-sensor-1
Cleaning a GM MAF Sensor
http://easyautodiagnostics.com/gm/4....e-maf-sensor-1
Cheers,
Goose
#7
Not sure disconnecting the battery is going to help improve you situation...
Reconnect the battery cable, try to start the motor and post up the results to the above questions.
Reference info
Testing a GM MAF Sensor
http://easyautodiagnostics.com/gm/4....e-maf-sensor-1
Cleaning a GM MAF Sensor
http://easyautodiagnostics.com/gm/4....e-maf-sensor-1
Cheers,
Goose
Reconnect the battery cable, try to start the motor and post up the results to the above questions.
Reference info
Testing a GM MAF Sensor
http://easyautodiagnostics.com/gm/4....e-maf-sensor-1
Cleaning a GM MAF Sensor
http://easyautodiagnostics.com/gm/4....e-maf-sensor-1
Cheers,
Goose
#8
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Nov 1999
Location: MI
Posts: 2,073
Received 556 Likes
on
263 Posts
Cruise-In VI Veteran
OK, lets get your Corvette back on the road!
Proceed as follows,
Perform detailed visual inspection of the intake duct/clamps and vacuum line where the throttle body and MAF sensor connect to the ducts for proper installation. Ensure MAF Sensor airflow arrow is pointing in the correct direction. Post up any issues found.
Fully disconnect the throttle body electrical connectors and inspect the male/female electrical connecters for bent/damaged electrical contact pins. If the electrical contact pins are good, reconnect connecters to the throttle body. Post up any issues found.
Fully disconnect the MAF Sensor electrical connector and inspect the male/female electrical connecters for bent/damaged electrical contact pins. If the electrical contact pins are good, reconnect connecter to the MAF Sensor. Post up any issues found.
Reconnect battery, clear all codes in the DIC.
Start engine, keep eyes on the amber "check engine" light.
If the engine starts, post up how the engine is running and the condition of the "check engine" light.
if the "check engine" light was illuminated with the engine running, retrieve DIC codes and post up.
if the "check engine" light was NOT illuminated with the engine running, retrieve DIC codes and post up.
Cheers,
Goose
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pjdbm (04-08-2018)
#9
Drifting
Thread Starter
Ok, really need your help here, this car is in a garage attached to my house
I inspected all duck work, harness connections all were fine, MAF is facing correctly
I reconnected my negative cable and it was very hard to start but got it started and running at high RPM with foot on gas, then she idle fine but get this, I look on the ground it raw gas is leaking out around where the gas filter/exhast area!
How could this be? I had to run a garden hose to wash it out, I need to get my car out of the garage as it is stinking up my house and could cause an issue.
That is what I am doing now
ps no codes
I inspected all duck work, harness connections all were fine, MAF is facing correctly
I reconnected my negative cable and it was very hard to start but got it started and running at high RPM with foot on gas, then she idle fine but get this, I look on the ground it raw gas is leaking out around where the gas filter/exhast area!
How could this be? I had to run a garden hose to wash it out, I need to get my car out of the garage as it is stinking up my house and could cause an issue.
That is what I am doing now
ps no codes
#11
Drifting
Thread Starter
Would anyone have any idea why this fuel line would have popped off? could this have built up too much pressure after cleaning the throttle body? It just doesn't make sense why & how this happened.
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pjdbm (04-08-2018)
#14
Drifting
Thread Starter
After sleeping over this and as a technician, I like to know why & how things like this happen to make some sense out of a situation.
1) I did the MAF & throttle body cleaning with no problem and all was perfect with that cleaning.
2) The car did start and ran well for about 10 seconds then ran rough and stalled.
This is when the the connection started to come loose and fuel pressure dropped making a no start.
3)Leaving battery unplugged did nothing.
4) Next day reconnected battery cable and tried to start. Was enough fuel pressure to hard start and run until total disconnection of the gas line to gas filter and thats when I actually saw gas running out the rear driver side area.
That gas filter was on there for over a year & 3500 miles, that is the only thing that does NOT make sense at this point.
1) I did the MAF & throttle body cleaning with no problem and all was perfect with that cleaning.
2) The car did start and ran well for about 10 seconds then ran rough and stalled.
This is when the the connection started to come loose and fuel pressure dropped making a no start.
3)Leaving battery unplugged did nothing.
4) Next day reconnected battery cable and tried to start. Was enough fuel pressure to hard start and run until total disconnection of the gas line to gas filter and thats when I actually saw gas running out the rear driver side area.
That gas filter was on there for over a year & 3500 miles, that is the only thing that does NOT make sense at this point.