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C5 Clutch pedal sticking

Old 07-11-2018, 05:03 PM
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Drw814
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Default C5 Clutch pedal sticking

Just bought my first C5, 6 speed, 40k miles. I bought the car about a month ago and the clutch seemed fine. Yesterday it was pretty warm ~95* and while creeping through a drive through in 1st, my clutch pedal stayed on the floor. I lifted it manually with my foot and it stuck again while I was still creeping. After the drive through, on normal roads it was fine. Then I get back home and back it into the garage, clutch pedal sticks again. I then read a ton of info about this issue with the C5 and do the ranger method of changing the clutch fluid last night. Today as im pulling it out of my driveway, pedal sticks again. Backing out of parking space at dunkin happens again. Under "normal" driving (and hard driving) clutch seems fine, the pedal always comes back up and the clutch does not seem to be slipping. Like I said I have read a ton about this in the last 24 hours and it looks like most people have this problem under hard driving, where I seem to only have this problem creeping around at low speeds. I have looked at removing the assist spring, buying a return spring, and getting a tick master cylinder, and Im prepared to get a new clutch if necessary. Im hoping the tick master cylinder solves the problem as it is much cheaper than a new clutch and the labor involved, and my clutch itself seems fine. Is there any way to determine if its the master or slave? If is the master I'LL replace with the tick racing and call it a day. If its the slave I might as well do master/slave/clutch while the rear end is apart. Thanks in advance for your help.
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Old 07-11-2018, 09:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Drw814 View Post
Just bought my first C5, 6 speed, 40k miles. I bought the car about a month ago and the clutch seemed fine. Yesterday it was pretty warm ~95* and while creeping through a drive through in 1st, my clutch pedal stayed on the floor. I lifted it manually with my foot and it stuck again while I was still creeping. After the drive through, on normal roads it was fine. Then I get back home and back it into the garage, clutch pedal sticks again. I then read a ton of info about this issue with the C5 and do the ranger method of changing the clutch fluid last night. Today as im pulling it out of my driveway, pedal sticks again. Backing out of parking space at dunkin happens again. Under "normal" driving (and hard driving) clutch seems fine, the pedal always comes back up and the clutch does not seem to be slipping. Like I said I have read a ton about this in the last 24 hours and it looks like most people have this problem under hard driving, where I seem to only have this problem creeping around at low speeds. I have looked at removing the assist spring, buying a return spring, and getting a tick master cylinder, and Im prepared to get a new clutch if necessary. Im hoping the tick master cylinder solves the problem as it is much cheaper than a new clutch and the labor involved, and my clutch itself seems fine. Is there any way to determine if its the master or slave? If is the master I'LL replace with the tick racing and call it a day. If its the slave I might as well do master/slave/clutch while the rear end is apart. Thanks in advance for your help.

replace the return spring !!!!!
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Old 07-11-2018, 09:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Pounder View Post
replace the return spring !!!!!
The over center spring people opt to remove?
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Old 07-11-2018, 10:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Drw814 View Post
The over center spring people opt to remove?
that spring is vital to the function of the clutch master cyl. !!!!! the pedal has to return to suck fluid back into the master !!!
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Old 07-12-2018, 01:27 AM
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I removed that spring from my car and didn't notice any difference other than the pedal feel.

(Which in my case means it shifts just fine in ordinary driving and sticks to the floor after a few high-throttle high-RPM shifts. New clutch should be shipping any day now.)
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Old 07-12-2018, 04:00 AM
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Interesting!...... I have a similar problem getting the car out of garage using reverse.
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Old 07-12-2018, 05:37 PM
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Originally Posted by NSFW View Post
I removed that spring from my car and didn't notice any difference other than the pedal feel.

(Which in my case means it shifts just fine in ordinary driving and sticks to the floor after a few high-throttle high-RPM shifts. New clutch should be shipping any day now.)
Did you replace the master cylinder first or just go for the new clutch?
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Old 07-12-2018, 06:52 PM
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I'm just replacing everything as the first step. Hopefully there won't be a second step.
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Old 07-12-2018, 08:09 PM
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Originally Posted by NSFW View Post
I'm just replacing everything as the first step. Hopefully there won't be a second step.
What kind of clutch did you get? Oem? Iím trying to decide if I should get an oem or aftermarket clutch should I need one.
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Old 07-12-2018, 09:54 PM
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I'm getting an RPS BC2. It's kind of expensive, but everybody who has one seems to like it a lot. And I like the twin-disc clutch in my Subaru so I'm hoping it has a similar feel. And I'm getting mine through Mamo Motorsports - he mills about 3-4 pounds out of it, near the outside edge, which should hopefully make it feel closer to an aluminum flywheel but with the longevity of a steel flywheel.

I have read of people having pedal-on-the-floor issues with other OEM clutches, and I given how much work it is to replace a C5 clutch, I'm doing everything I can to make sure I only have to do it once. New master (Tick, OEM size), new slave and throw-out bearing (OEM), heat-shield sleeve on the hydraulic hoses (DEI), new clutch (RPS BC2), and a clutch slave bleeder (Katech). And a new pilot bearing, and if the torque tube couplers or bearings are even slightly less-than-perfect those are getting swapped too. It's going to cost a bunch up front, but it should be trouble free for a very long time.
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Old 08-01-2018, 08:17 AM
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Ok, I purchased a monster stage 2 complete clutch kit, with tick master cylinder and new slave. Just had my shop install it and I have a couple concerns. The big one is that the clutch engages right at the very top of its travel. If I press the clutch in at all it will start to disengage. Is this normal for break in? Iím only at about 20mi of the 500mi break in period. I figured the engagement point would be very low for break in, not high. Iím worried as Iím driving, the clutch isnít fully engaging and I am ďridingĒ it. Is this something I can adjust with the master?
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Old 08-01-2018, 09:40 AM
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Just get some miles on it. All the monster clutch I've put in grab at the top
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Old 08-02-2018, 12:17 AM
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Ok, Iím now at about 75 miles with no change. If I depress the clutch pedal at all, the clutch will begin to slip. Iím not having problems driving it, but Iím worried Iím riding the clutch cruising in gear. Have any of your clutches been this high?
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Old 08-02-2018, 11:42 AM
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Originally Posted by drw814 View Post
ok, iím now at about 75 miles with no change. If i depress the clutch pedal at all, the clutch will begin to slip. Iím not having problems driving it, but iím worried iím riding the clutch cruising in gear. Have any of your clutches been this high?
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Old 08-02-2018, 12:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Drw814 View Post
Ok, Iím now at about 75 miles with no change. If I depress the clutch pedal at all, the clutch will begin to slip. Iím not having problems driving it, but Iím worried Iím riding the clutch cruising in gear. Have any of your clutches been this high?
did you get an adjustable master? I just put in a monster clutch a month ago. Thought the same thing that I was riding it because the pedal was so high. With proper break in mileage, 500 or so feels perfect. Still at the top of the pedal but you can feel every so slightly free play at the tippy top.
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