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Smoke from exhaust

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Old 09-19-2018, 02:37 PM
  #121  
99blkfrc99
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Cracked plug no good. It was probably arcing out of that to your header or something. Do you have the AIR hooked up or no? I leak could cause unwanted 02 pre sensor.
Old 09-19-2018, 02:58 PM
  #122  
Georgies
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Yes both AIR tubes are hooked up. I ordered new AIR tube gaskets from GM. Also, do I need to get new spark plugs again or should I just reuse them. I have a few spare used ones I could use to replace the cracked one.
Old 09-19-2018, 03:31 PM
  #123  
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Just change the cracked one and your good to go.
Old 09-19-2018, 08:20 PM
  #124  
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Made some progress, got cylinder 1 to TDC, took off the springs and found this.

The exhaust seal is lifted. Since im changing them, i took my dead blow hammer and 12 point 11mm socket and gave it a few whacks. It deffinatley went down some. Im still able to lift the valve spring seat a little, but less then before whacking it.

my theory is that TSP sold me the wrong seal kit, as they were all blue. If only the exhaust seals are lifted once i go threw all of them, it means that indeed they sold me only the intake ones as my the Fel-Pro kit I got has different exhaust/intake seals pictured below

Hopefully im on the right track.

Last edited by Georgies; 09-19-2018 at 09:28 PM.
Old 09-20-2018, 08:46 AM
  #125  
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Here are the 2 new valve stem seals installed. The intake seal seated lower than the exhaust seal. Is this normal?




The intake part # is 70945
The exhaust part # is 70946

The Fel-Pro Seal Set # is SS70945

I hope these are the right ones...
Old 09-20-2018, 09:14 AM
  #126  
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The new seals i have arent the same height from intake to exhaust...

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Old 09-22-2018, 07:29 PM
  #127  
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Ok guys, changed all the valve stem seals.

To sum up what was found,

Cylinder #1 had a slightly lifted exhaust seal as sean in post #124.

Cylinder #1 intake rocker looks damaged. Here is a pic

Also found a collapsed exhaust seal on Cylinder #6 seen below






I have 3 questions.

Should I get a new rocker?
What would cause that rocker wear(only that one)
What would cause the valve stem seal to collapse?

Thanks

Last edited by Georgies; 09-22-2018 at 07:38 PM.
Old 09-22-2018, 08:00 PM
  #128  
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#1 pushrod clear? Not positive with the LS, but generally oiling is through the pushrod. How does the valve stem tip look? Should be hardened, and may be fine. Definitely change the rocker. The seal problems you've seen are new to me.
Old 09-22-2018, 08:29 PM
  #129  
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All the pushrods look perfect, straight and clean. They are Manton 3 piece pushrods.

I will look into getting one rocker. Are the Z06 rockers specific?

Also, the valve stem tip looks a little marbled. Its not as shinny as the others but think it should be ok..

Last edited by Georgies; 09-23-2018 at 05:04 AM.
Old 09-23-2018, 09:33 AM
  #130  
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I repaired the bad intake rocker on cylinder#1

Before



After




This is what that valve stem tip looks like





Now ive got a problem, I want to start the torquing procedure for the rockers, but they are all loose. I cant watch the valves open. What should i do?
I have a endoscope, so I can use it to watch the piston move as I turn the crank. Any use of this??
Old 09-23-2018, 10:54 PM
  #131  
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I worry that the rocker tip should have been hardened, and now isn't, and I would at least hone the end of that valve stem before it eats into the rocker tip. You're running net lash rockers? The ground tip is going to change that rocker's relationship to the pushrod and lifter. I think it will be by the inverse of the rocker ratio, so if you ground off .010, the pushrod will be .006 short. On second thought, that may not matter much to preload. Of course, if your running a lash of some sort, that goes out the window.
Old 09-24-2018, 07:30 AM
  #132  
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Originally Posted by redzg
I worry that the rocker tip should have been hardened, and now isn't, and I would at least hone the end of that valve stem before it eats into the rocker tip. You're running net lash rockers? The ground tip is going to change that rocker's relationship to the pushrod and lifter. I think it will be by the inverse of the rocker ratio, so if you ground off .010, the pushrod will be .006 short. On second thought, that may not matter much to preload. Of course, if your running a lash of some sort, that goes out the window.
i am running the stock rockers with a CHE trunion upgrade.

car is running good, no more smoke. But I really f'ed my self up. I cross threaded a sparkplug on cylinder 6!!!!!
i got it in deep enough to run..i dont know what my next move is but im really disappointed right now...
Old 09-24-2018, 09:49 AM
  #133  
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is it possible the spark plug will blow out??? Damn I'm really worried now...
Old 09-24-2018, 10:14 AM
  #134  
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Get a tap put grease on it and run it in a little back it out clean debris off and repeat until its smooth sailing. Stock ls rockets are just torque to 22flbs. Some people freak out but there is no need to find tdc. I've done this many times. As u tighten the bolt make sure rocker is lined up with valve stem.
Old 09-24-2018, 10:15 AM
  #135  
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Cross thread is better than no thread. 😀
Old 09-24-2018, 10:35 AM
  #136  
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I ordered the back tap from Powerbuilt on Amazon... if it doesnt work and cant get spark plug back in I will bight the buillet and take off heads snd maybe send to Mamo to get ported.

what head gastket kit do you guys suggest if I plan on going turbo down the line?
i also ordered 1 new rocker from GM and they said intake valves are discontinued as well... so gotta find one too

Last edited by Georgies; 09-24-2018 at 10:36 AM.
Old 09-24-2018, 11:59 AM
  #137  
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O.K., unless I'm mistaken the big take-a-ways are:
1) running well with no cracked insulators
2) no smoke with good seals
I think you've done very well, other than the cross-thread thing. If you can afford the time and the dollars, by all means have the heads worked. Won't be surprised if the crossed threads drive a suggestion for a different head at Mamo.
If you can't afford the time and money, use a proper chase to clean up the threads, install the plug at 11 lb/ft (132 lb/in) torque, and run it until something else goes wrong.

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Old 09-24-2018, 12:13 PM
  #138  
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Originally Posted by redzg
O.K., unless I'm mistaken the big take-a-ways are:
1) running well with no cracked insulators
2) no smoke with good seals
I think you've done very well, other than the cross-thread thing. If you can afford the time and the dollars, by all means have the heads worked. Won't be surprised if the crossed threads drive a suggestion for a different head at Mamo.
If you can't afford the time and money, use a proper chase to clean up the threads, install the plug at 11 lb/ft (132 lb/in) torque, and run it until something else goes wrong.

Thanks for the motivating words. And yes, that sums up the situation.
I found this on the C5 Classifieds.

Would these do good? Will I lose my pushrods and trunion upgrade with these heads?

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...7cc-heads.html
Old 09-24-2018, 09:22 PM
  #139  
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Can't speak for the heads -- I'm still running 853's. Egad.
The work you've accomplished in the time you've accomplished it is astounding.
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Old 09-24-2018, 10:13 PM
  #140  
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Originally Posted by redzg
Can't speak for the heads -- I'm still running 853's. Egad.
The work you've accomplished in the time you've accomplished it is astounding.

Thanks, it mostly cause guys like you on the forums help out! I also enjoy it and spend a few hours every day after work..

Do you think its worth getting aftermarket heads or sticking with the 243's and working them?



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