Smoke from exhaust
#122
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Yes both AIR tubes are hooked up. I ordered new AIR tube gaskets from GM. Also, do I need to get new spark plugs again or should I just reuse them. I have a few spare used ones I could use to replace the cracked one.
#123
Safety Car
Just change the cracked one and your good to go.
#124
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Made some progress, got cylinder 1 to TDC, took off the springs and found this.
The exhaust seal is lifted. Since im changing them, i took my dead blow hammer and 12 point 11mm socket and gave it a few whacks. It deffinatley went down some. Im still able to lift the valve spring seat a little, but less then before whacking it.
my theory is that TSP sold me the wrong seal kit, as they were all blue. If only the exhaust seals are lifted once i go threw all of them, it means that indeed they sold me only the intake ones as my the Fel-Pro kit I got has different exhaust/intake seals pictured below
Hopefully im on the right track.
The exhaust seal is lifted. Since im changing them, i took my dead blow hammer and 12 point 11mm socket and gave it a few whacks. It deffinatley went down some. Im still able to lift the valve spring seat a little, but less then before whacking it.
my theory is that TSP sold me the wrong seal kit, as they were all blue. If only the exhaust seals are lifted once i go threw all of them, it means that indeed they sold me only the intake ones as my the Fel-Pro kit I got has different exhaust/intake seals pictured below
Hopefully im on the right track.
Last edited by Georgies; 09-19-2018 at 09:28 PM.
#125
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Here are the 2 new valve stem seals installed. The intake seal seated lower than the exhaust seal. Is this normal?
The intake part # is 70945
The exhaust part # is 70946
The Fel-Pro Seal Set # is SS70945
I hope these are the right ones...
The intake part # is 70945
The exhaust part # is 70946
The Fel-Pro Seal Set # is SS70945
I hope these are the right ones...
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dragon84 (09-20-2018)
#127
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Ok guys, changed all the valve stem seals.
To sum up what was found,
Cylinder #1 had a slightly lifted exhaust seal as sean in post #124.
Cylinder #1 intake rocker looks damaged. Here is a pic
Also found a collapsed exhaust seal on Cylinder #6 seen below
I have 3 questions.
Should I get a new rocker?
What would cause that rocker wear(only that one)
What would cause the valve stem seal to collapse?
Thanks
To sum up what was found,
Cylinder #1 had a slightly lifted exhaust seal as sean in post #124.
Cylinder #1 intake rocker looks damaged. Here is a pic
Also found a collapsed exhaust seal on Cylinder #6 seen below
I have 3 questions.
Should I get a new rocker?
What would cause that rocker wear(only that one)
What would cause the valve stem seal to collapse?
Thanks
Last edited by Georgies; 09-22-2018 at 07:38 PM.
#128
Melting Slicks
#1 pushrod clear? Not positive with the LS, but generally oiling is through the pushrod. How does the valve stem tip look? Should be hardened, and may be fine. Definitely change the rocker. The seal problems you've seen are new to me.
#129
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
All the pushrods look perfect, straight and clean. They are Manton 3 piece pushrods.
I will look into getting one rocker. Are the Z06 rockers specific?
Also, the valve stem tip looks a little marbled. Its not as shinny as the others but think it should be ok..
I will look into getting one rocker. Are the Z06 rockers specific?
Also, the valve stem tip looks a little marbled. Its not as shinny as the others but think it should be ok..
Last edited by Georgies; 09-23-2018 at 05:04 AM.
#130
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I repaired the bad intake rocker on cylinder#1
Before
After
This is what that valve stem tip looks like
Now ive got a problem, I want to start the torquing procedure for the rockers, but they are all loose. I cant watch the valves open. What should i do?
I have a endoscope, so I can use it to watch the piston move as I turn the crank. Any use of this??
Before
After
This is what that valve stem tip looks like
Now ive got a problem, I want to start the torquing procedure for the rockers, but they are all loose. I cant watch the valves open. What should i do?
I have a endoscope, so I can use it to watch the piston move as I turn the crank. Any use of this??
#131
Melting Slicks
I worry that the rocker tip should have been hardened, and now isn't, and I would at least hone the end of that valve stem before it eats into the rocker tip. You're running net lash rockers? The ground tip is going to change that rocker's relationship to the pushrod and lifter. I think it will be by the inverse of the rocker ratio, so if you ground off .010, the pushrod will be .006 short. On second thought, that may not matter much to preload. Of course, if your running a lash of some sort, that goes out the window.
#132
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I worry that the rocker tip should have been hardened, and now isn't, and I would at least hone the end of that valve stem before it eats into the rocker tip. You're running net lash rockers? The ground tip is going to change that rocker's relationship to the pushrod and lifter. I think it will be by the inverse of the rocker ratio, so if you ground off .010, the pushrod will be .006 short. On second thought, that may not matter much to preload. Of course, if your running a lash of some sort, that goes out the window.
car is running good, no more smoke. But I really f'ed my self up. I cross threaded a sparkplug on cylinder 6!!!!!
i got it in deep enough to run..i dont know what my next move is but im really disappointed right now...
#134
Safety Car
Get a tap put grease on it and run it in a little back it out clean debris off and repeat until its smooth sailing. Stock ls rockets are just torque to 22flbs. Some people freak out but there is no need to find tdc. I've done this many times. As u tighten the bolt make sure rocker is lined up with valve stem.
#136
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I ordered the back tap from Powerbuilt on Amazon... if it doesnt work and cant get spark plug back in I will bight the buillet and take off heads snd maybe send to Mamo to get ported.
what head gastket kit do you guys suggest if I plan on going turbo down the line?
i also ordered 1 new rocker from GM and they said intake valves are discontinued as well... so gotta find one too
what head gastket kit do you guys suggest if I plan on going turbo down the line?
i also ordered 1 new rocker from GM and they said intake valves are discontinued as well... so gotta find one too
Last edited by Georgies; 09-24-2018 at 10:36 AM.
#137
Melting Slicks
O.K., unless I'm mistaken the big take-a-ways are:
1) running well with no cracked insulators
2) no smoke with good seals
I think you've done very well, other than the cross-thread thing. If you can afford the time and the dollars, by all means have the heads worked. Won't be surprised if the crossed threads drive a suggestion for a different head at Mamo.
If you can't afford the time and money, use a proper chase to clean up the threads, install the plug at 11 lb/ft (132 lb/in) torque, and run it until something else goes wrong.
1) running well with no cracked insulators
2) no smoke with good seals
I think you've done very well, other than the cross-thread thing. If you can afford the time and the dollars, by all means have the heads worked. Won't be surprised if the crossed threads drive a suggestion for a different head at Mamo.
If you can't afford the time and money, use a proper chase to clean up the threads, install the plug at 11 lb/ft (132 lb/in) torque, and run it until something else goes wrong.
#138
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
O.K., unless I'm mistaken the big take-a-ways are:
1) running well with no cracked insulators
2) no smoke with good seals
I think you've done very well, other than the cross-thread thing. If you can afford the time and the dollars, by all means have the heads worked. Won't be surprised if the crossed threads drive a suggestion for a different head at Mamo.
If you can't afford the time and money, use a proper chase to clean up the threads, install the plug at 11 lb/ft (132 lb/in) torque, and run it until something else goes wrong.
1) running well with no cracked insulators
2) no smoke with good seals
I think you've done very well, other than the cross-thread thing. If you can afford the time and the dollars, by all means have the heads worked. Won't be surprised if the crossed threads drive a suggestion for a different head at Mamo.
If you can't afford the time and money, use a proper chase to clean up the threads, install the plug at 11 lb/ft (132 lb/in) torque, and run it until something else goes wrong.
Thanks for the motivating words. And yes, that sums up the situation.
I found this on the C5 Classifieds.
Would these do good? Will I lose my pushrods and trunion upgrade with these heads?
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...7cc-heads.html
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Georgies (09-24-2018)
#140
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Thanks, it mostly cause guys like you on the forums help out! I also enjoy it and spend a few hours every day after work..
Do you think its worth getting aftermarket heads or sticking with the 243's and working them?