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Gears wont go in when motor running

 
Old 10-14-2018, 09:19 PM
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z0stix
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Default Gears wont go in when motor running

Well, the other day when I started the car, I could not get reverse in, or any other gear....i had to shut off the car, put it in gear, then turn the car on and take off quickly....luckily I was only a few blocks away...

I have an rxt twin disc clutch, I removed the inspection cover and the slave does push the pressure plate fingers in, although very squeaky, dont know if its supposed to be squeaky though.

What I do notice is that with the motor running, as I push down my clutch pedal,the pedal starts to vibrate, I have a remote bleeder and I bled and put clean fluid in, but still same thing. I have a stock ls6 master cylinder, I hope its that, I do not want a tick, a couple C5s around here had issues with them and I don't like the stiff pedal...anyways...what do u guys think??

Last edited by z0stix; 10-14-2018 at 09:20 PM.
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Old 10-14-2018, 09:39 PM
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Well it's obvious your clutch is not disengaging completely.

if you've got the inspection cover off, check the bolts that hold the pressure plate fast to the flywheel. Make sure they are tight, all three. I would also price um things around in there and see if you can feel anything loose. Flywheel to crank bolts loose. Bellhousing to engine bolts loose. Those you should be able to see easily. These are all unlikely but clearly you have something going on. The most obvious possibility is the master cylinder and slave cylinder.

with the engine off and just sitting in the driver's seat, can you make the clutch pedal pump up?
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Old 10-14-2018, 09:50 PM
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what do u mean by pump up? If I sit in the car with it turned off, the clutch pedal feels completely normal, good pressure and no vibrations when pressing the pedal down
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Old 10-14-2018, 10:13 PM
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I mean push it down and release it rapidly about 10 or 15 times in a row and see if you get the point of workload to change from down low to up high. Sort of like pumping up your brakes, except you're trying to do it with your clutch pedal. You will feel where it is doing the work of releasing the pressure plate. If that position changes, then you need to address that. Could be air in the system, could be anything.
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Old 10-15-2018, 12:15 PM
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Bill Curlee
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Anytime that you cant SHIFT with the engine running means that the clutch disk is NOT fully releasing. If you have vibrations when the clutch is depressed /engine running, it tells me that the pressure plate release fingers and or the throw out bearing is damaged. With the clutch released, see if you can examine each pressure plate release finger and make sure that they are the SAME HEIGHT and not bent or depressed.

TICK MASTER. Tick also sells a standard volume master cylinder that does not increase the peddle pressure.

Jack up the rear wheels and put the trans in 1st gear. Start the engine. Fully depress the clutch. The rear wheels should STOP DRIVING. You should be able to easily stop any rear wheel rotation with the clutch fully depressed. With my TICK Master, I am able to lengthen the push rod so that I get full release.

If there is something wrong with your OEM master and or slave, or the pressure plate fingers are damaged, you may not be getting enough volume of fluid to depress the clutch release fingers enough to get full release.

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Old 10-15-2018, 06:44 PM
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Here's a vid of the pressure plate, is that enough travel it is getting?? I'm starting to think the discs or somthing is stuck
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Old 10-15-2018, 06:57 PM
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neutron82
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just an fyi, you can get a tick master with the stock bore so the pedal won't be stiff
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Old 10-15-2018, 07:32 PM
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Looks like enough travel to me...

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Old 10-15-2018, 10:43 PM
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Bill brings up some excellent points.

Also, I once had a clutch installed by the dealer - loooong time ago. 4 months later it wouldn't disengage completely. One of the rivets in the clutch broke off and was jamming things up. We can only see 1/2 of your pressure plate and something we cant see could still be broken.

Guys - is it me or an optical illusion - but does it look like the entire pressure plate/crank is moving a lot?

Looks like a band aid is stuck to the pressure plate. LOL - maybe it's a label but it sure looks like a band aid.

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Old 10-16-2018, 10:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Ed Ramberger View Post
Guys - is it me or an optical illusion - but does it look like the entire pressure plate/crank is moving a lot?
No, I think you're right. Would indicate to me perhaps some of the bell housing bolts have worked loose. Can't imagine there's that much clearance in a thrust bearing. And even if there were, why would the crank return once the pressure was removed. I could envision the bell housing flexing some with bolts missing, and causing less throwout bearing travel. Since we can't see the block in the vid, we can't tell if the flywheel/pressure plate are moving with regards to the engine block.

Good catch.
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Old 10-16-2018, 10:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Ed Ramberger View Post

Guys - is it me or an optical illusion - but does it look like the entire pressure plate/crank is moving a lot?
The camera appears to be hand held and is not stationary.
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Old 10-16-2018, 12:57 PM
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Despite the motion of the handheld camera, I see the same thing. It looks like the pressure plate cover is moving.
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Old 10-16-2018, 12:59 PM
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I'm gonna get under there again as soon as the weather clears up...will report back
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Old 10-16-2018, 03:19 PM
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DAMN MAN,,, ,,,,,, Spray some lube on that slave cylinder to TT sliding surface!!!!!!!

I agree,, either the camera is making it seem like its loose or it IS LOOSE!! MAKE SURE THAT Pressure plate is TIGHT!

There is NO way to tell if that is enough thrust bearing travel!
You really need to jack up the rear of the car and see if you can depress the clutch and have NO REAR WHEELS being driven! I can STOP MY REAR WHEELS FROM SPINNING BY HAND when I have my clutch properly adjusted.

Once your wheel wheels stop being driven, the clutch is truly fully disengaged.

IF, you continue to drive the car with a clutch that is NOT fully disengaging, it will seriously damaged the blocker rings and synchros in the trans (if it hasn't already)

BC
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Old 10-19-2018, 09:43 PM
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A little update, i got under there again, I took a better video of the clutch goin in and out...you can see when the clutch pedal goes in, the flywheel moves forward a bit, and backs off when the clutch pedal is released....so I believe the flywheel bolts are loose a bit, the bolts are ARP, can I reuse them, or should I order a new set? I actually have 4 spare arp bolts from when I had to buy 2 sets of 6 for my CTSV 8 bolt crank


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Old 10-19-2018, 09:54 PM
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YES ARP bolts are reuseable.. Take a look at your harmonic balancer when you depress the clutch. See if it moves IN & OUT similar to what you see at that flywheel. Please report the outcome.

Bill
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Old 10-19-2018, 10:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Bill Curlee View Post
YES ARP bolts are reuseable.. Take a look at your harmonic balancer when you depress the clutch. See if it moves IN & OUT similar to what you see at that flywheel. Please report the outcome.

Bill
I just checked it out, the balancer stays put, no movement at all...its a custom innovators west balancer from A&A secondary drive kit if that matters
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Old 10-19-2018, 10:56 PM
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Well,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, That means you for sure have a loose flywheel!

GETHERDONE

BC
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Old 10-21-2018, 11:29 AM
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Originally Posted by z0stix View Post
I just checked it out, the balancer stays put, no movement at all...its a custom innovators west balancer from A&A secondary drive kit if that matters
I was really having you check to see if there was excessive CRANK THRUST There is a thrust bearing on one of the crank main bearings that take care of that crank end play.

Let us know what you find (pictures please!)

Bill
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Old 10-26-2018, 09:59 PM
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I just started tearing everything apart, I noticed the trans is leaking, should I be concerned? Easy fix since I'm going to pull it out?? Seems like it's coming from up top on the tranny...
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