What DTC's came back after clearing them ??...I went through something similar but I was able to quickly diagnose it as a bad ignition switch....mine was a "no crank no start"...had no 2 second fuel prime either which helped in the diag....now with yours as a "cranking no start" maybe a crank sensor...maybe not...does the tach appear to move while cranking ??...if no you'll get no fuel or spark if crank sensor bad...you can get 10 different opinions here and maybe someone guesses right....I'd do a quick check to see if your PCM is being powered....disconnect your MAF sensor and see if you have the 5 volt reference voltage on the yellow wire with key on engine off... without some diagnostic knowledge and tooling it can be trying !!

YES !!....PCM/ECM...front fender !!

I doubt your PCM is fried...like I had said you can check any of the sensors (TPS,MAF etc) 5 volt references and see if it’s present...you can try to treat this as just a normal cranking no start...a good toot of brake kleen into the engine will check to see if it’s a fuel delivery issue if the car starts or tries to start...also check for that 2 second fuel pump with the key on too !!... what did these noises sound like in the area of your fuel rail ??...l don’t know your mechanical background or knowledge but if it seems that it might be a little over your head to try to diagnose this I’d maybe take it to a good shop !!

Hey Dennis !!...the 0355 is an issue with the ignition control circuit on #5 cylinder...even if only cylinder 5 was dead the car should still start if fuel system is good...the PCM WILL disable the #5 fuel injector too BTW with that DTC!!...first thing to do is see if you have spark...disconnect the plug wire from the coil and connect 12 volt test light to ground...have someone crank the engine over and see if the spark jumps from the coil to the tip of the test light....I would check # 5 and another cylinder (try the other bank- passenger side)...if no spark at #5 only you can check the ignition circuit now or later if you do have spark at the other cylinders... coil has 4 wires...first I would make sure that the connector is secure to the coil...now disconnect the connector..,pink is 12v...green is control (from PCM)...black is ground and I think it’s brown but that’s your low reference (ground)...you can check it if you want with a multimeter and a 12 volt test light...with key on engine off you should have 12 volts on the pink...green (control) is around 1 volt or less but only while the engine is running...might be same if just cranking but I think PCM just needs to see an RPM signal ...now with your test light connected to battery positive (you can use the alternators red cable instead of using the battery... the test light will light when you connect it to the last 2 wires...black and brown. If spark good try the brake kleen and see if the car trys to start.

Dennis,
if spark is good at all cylinders....maybe not at #5....like I said try the brake kleen...if car starts or try’s to start you have a fuel delivery problem (fuel pump or injector control)...if no 2 second prime when the key is turned on check fuse #13 (F/PMP) and see if it's blown...if not swap the horn relay with the fuel pump relay in the under hood fuse box...now listen and see if you hear the pump come on for 2 seconds...if still no start we can check the fuel pump relay circuit with the relay removed but if fuel pump does come on we can check for injector control !!...p.s. I was thinking ignition relay 42 might be bad but the PCM was alive but we can look at that possibly !!

Hopefully, we can narrow this down.-Tach doesn't move when it turns with starter.-MAF has 5.4 volts -no spark (I checked #3 & 4 spark plugs/coil with a light probe and no spark) didn't bother checking the rest, although I did spray carb cleaner into the intake with no result. -I do hear the fuel pump for a couple seconds, although it seems to repeat itself a few times if I leave the key on, kinda like it is maintaining pressure. Sometimes fuel pump runs for 15-20 seconds and does it after a minute or so it stops for a while then repeats. Today, while I was trying to start it after resetting the DIC it popped? or backfired again out of the exhaust. Should I pull an injector or two to see if they are squirting? I assume I'm hearing the fuel pump as the sound comes from the area of the fuel rails towards the back--Fuse #13 F/PMP is good.-Swapped the horn relay with the fuel pump relay. Didn't do anything that I could detect.-still getting lots of codes after trying to start a couple times. ? Each time I would try, I reset the DIC codes that would show up, but not get the same results. sometimes it would be SVC TRACTION SYS, SVS ACTIVE HANDLG, 10-PCM PO335 C, TCS U1016 H, IPC U1016H, HVAC BO363 H.Other times it would not include the ACTIVE HANDLING & SVC TRACTION SYS but would include left & right door modules or seats or IPC. most are typically Loss of communication,Doesn't seem like there is any consistency.Thanks for your thoughts!!Dennis

Hey Dennis !!...no Tach movement during cranking is a good indication of no crank sensor signal PLUS I see you have a P0335...that is a crank sensor DTC...well that’s why your not getting spark !!...as far as the fuel pump with the key ON your pump will come on for 2 seconds and shut off. You really don’t have to physically remove the injector...all we want to do is check for 12 volts and “injector pulse” at the injector. I’m 99% sure you don’t have it but let’s check anyways!!...Just disconnect an injector and take your test light connected to battery NEGATIVE and see if your test light lights touching the PINK wire ...if good now connect the test light to battery POSITIVE and see if the test light lights and flickers while you try to start at the other wire...I believe they are all striped wires...if you’re not getting ignition the PCM isn’t going to fire the fuel injectors...now before you had a P0355 right (ignition control circuit) ???...thinking maybe you transposed some numbers. Well I would hate to say that YES it’s a definitely bad crank sensor without testing the circuit but if you want to try it (at the PCM) and if not you’d have to yank the starter to get to the crank sensor...I have some long piercing probes and I don’t think they’d work...let us know what direction you might want to go !!

I did transpose the 335 & 355, I will check the voltage tomorrow and get back to you. I don’t mind taking the starter out if that’s what it takes.
Thanks for your help!
I learn something new every day!