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I'm restoring my C5Z and the crank bolt has come loose. I'm sure the previous owner didn't put full torque spec. It had made it out enough to rub on the steering rack. I have it sitting flush again, the belt drives straight finally. I have an ARP bolt ready to go.
My question is:
Has anyone simply put proper torque without removing the rack? I'm hoping to pull the PS rack mounting bolts to get enough room... i'm not pulling the damper, just replacing the bolt.
Every thread I've come across, they are pulling/replacing the whole balancer and pulling the whole steering rack. Can't you just pop off the ends, and flex the line a bit?! At least for the bolt...?
I’m in the middle of changing my balancer right now. With the job fresh in my mind, I’d bet if you could manage to get the rack forward enough to get the bolt out/in, you’d be good to go! You will definitely have to remove your intake in order to torque from above, but that’s simple. My only concern would be accessing the power steering rack mount bolts with the sway bar and electric fans still installed. Additionally, you’ll most likely need to disconnect the tie rod ends and potentially the steering shaft. All of the power steering lines have a flexible section so moving the rack forward a bit shouldn’t be a problem once you have the right components detached so movement is possible. Hopefully you have a manual transmission for ease of “locking” the drivetrain when retorquing. If not, you’ll have to pull the starter and use a flywheel locking tool.
All of my response is my humble opinion. Personally, pulling all the components doubles as an opportunity to inspect and clean the fans, steering rack, and the rest of the serpentine system. So I would probably still go through the pain of doing it either way. But I say give it a shot! Worst case, you’ll get halfway through and still have to pull the rack
Last edited by wscott62893; 01-15-2019 at 06:16 AM.
I assume that the balancer looks like new, and that the bolt didnt just back out on its own. If it looks old, and you have to pull the rack anyway, you might have to rethink the project.
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
C5 of Year Winner (performance mods) 2019
well if it's a factory bolt it's torque to yield so if it was reused by the previous owner that would explain why it backed out but if the bolt was new and stretched at all and you try to torque it then likely the same thing would happen again... if you had an arp bolt or similar already installed then torque it and go since those are reusable
So the balancer looks just fine. No real wobble when it's tight. I can't see a reason to replace it.
I got the ARP bolt in the mail so I'll be going through tomorrow. I'll keep you posted.
So the balancer looks just fine. No real wobble when it's tight. I can't see a reason to replace it.
I got the ARP bolt in the mail so I'll be going through tomorrow. I'll keep you posted.
I replaced my balancer several years ago. After going through the ordeal, I don't see how you're going to get at the retaining bolt, with the rack in place.....
I’m in the process of changing my balancer. If you disconnect the passenger side tie rod, remove both rack bolts, loosen the 4 mounting bolts for the front subframe as far as you can and still have the nuts full of threads and pry up the steering rack on the passenger side you should have room. I tried this on my balancer replacement project. Was able to take crank bolt out but did not have quite enough room to use puller to take balancer off. I ended up taking the steering rack out.
There are several goo write-ups on pulling the steering rack and lowering the front cradle. If you do it that way you will finish your job much faster than wasting time trying to get around the proper way. On of the major problems is getting a torque wrench that reads 250 ft-lbs. When I did mine years ago, I put in a stock bolt and was able to use a 50:1 reducer that made the 37 ft-lb and 140 degrees process easy. I had access to a 250 lb torque wrench at the time but the torque to yield bolts take even more than 250 ft-lbs.
:
Do not use a torque wrench for the final tightening process. After torquing the bolt to 37 lbs ft - use a long break-over bar with a cheater bar extension to get the final 140 degrees on the bolt. Otherwise you risk damaging the torque wrench.
Do not use a torque wrench for the final tightening process. After torquing the bolt to 37 lbs ft - use a long break-over bar with a cheater bar extension to get the final 140 degrees on the bolt. Otherwise you risk damaging the torque wrench.
I agree, but ONLY if you're using an OE, "torque to yield" bolt. If you're using the ARP sourced bolt, it's a straight, tighten to a torque value, task. Which, for the ARP bolt is 237 ft/lbs.
I didn't fully remove the rack. I unbolted the tie rod ends, the steering rack bolts, cooler, and disconnected the steering shaft. I had to basically pry the rack away every turn of the wrench.
I used an ARP bolt and 25" breaker bar. It's holding solid after about 500 miles. Torqued it as tight as humanly possible; with the car in 6th gear and handbrake on, until the car started pushing forward.
01-14-2019, 11:10 PM
Torque Crank bolt without removing steering rack?
