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2003 C5 Front Brake Pads

 
Old 03-20-2019, 05:48 PM
  #21  
Newrock
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For the type of driving we do, the Hawk High Performance Street look good. Moderately priced. Particularly since there are other issues to resolve, but that's another thread.

Originally Posted by gimp View Post
Makes sense, newrock!

If you want cheap, there are some ebay/amazon kits floating out there, where you get a full set - four blank rotors, eight pads - for like $170. It's so cheap as to be suspicious, but multiple forum members report no issues with them after a few years, and they've been for sale for a number of years at this point.

If you want to "keep it simple," a stock pad and stock blank rotor will be appropriate for you.

If you want to have some "room for activities," there are a number of street pads that will be okay. A bunch were already mentioned here.

You really can't go wrong as long as you don't try to spend a bunch of money on features you don't need. Then you will end up annoying yourself with a bunch of squealing and dusting

Last edited by Newrock; 03-20-2019 at 05:49 PM.
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Old 03-21-2019, 11:34 AM
  #22  
sbo76
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There is much more to the equation than will any given pad lock up a wheel or actuate the ABS. I'm sure there are may tests online that will show 100-0 stopping distances with different pads\compounds. Like you said I'm sure any pad will work and has the ability to lock up a tire but not all pads are equal. I have had a few manufactures that I find to be better than others for both street and track conditions. I do track a corvette and M3 and agree its a totally different animal but there are also compounds that are designed to address the added heat and stress of track duty. I would not run my full race set up on the street (EBC Yellow) but my street set up (EBC Red/Stoptech street strip) do just fine on the track and in normal bumper to bumper driving. There is no autozone\checker ceramic pad that comes anywhere close to the pads I mentioned with respects to stopping power.


Originally Posted by gimp View Post
Stopping power for a pad almost does not matter for a street car unless it is so horrible that it's worthless.

Assuming your brake system is properly operation - you have a working master cylinder, hydraulic lines, power brakes, non-leaking calipers and lines, etc --
Any pad you get, unless it's made out of tin foil and prayers, is going to work well enough with your rotor and your caliper to lock up your street tires.
The stock pads? They will lock up your tires.
EBC Reds? They will lock up your tires. Yellows? Yep. Stoptechs? Yep. Hawk HPS 5.0? Yep. Hawk track pads? Yep.
So if a brake pad is capable of locking up your tires and activating ABS, you don't need more stopping power. You have enough to stop the car as fast as it physically can stop, given your speed, the friction coefficient of your tires, and your ABS system working properly (or you threshold braking perfectly).
If you drive on the street in a manner that will cause the stock pads to fade or the recommended fluid to heat up and lose effectiveness, you're driving like a maniac and you should get off the road and away from me and other humans.
Discussions of stopping power are only useful in the context of track use, and stopping power versus heat -- in other words, repeated deceleration from high speeds.
On the street, it's much more useful to consider cost, longevity (a different part of cost), dusting, and noise. The pad will stop you just fine.
This is why the first thing I asked OP was what kind of driving they were doing as it is by far the most relevant question. They said street, nothing too fast. So beyond just stock or stock-equivalent hardware, I recommended a basic all-around pad that I think (check, don't quote me on this) is cheaper than stock, offers good manners as far as noise goes (use brake quiet on the back as you're supposed to), though it does dust, but offers confidence that you won't ever fade it on the street if you decide to drive a little more spiritedly. That, or an equivalent pad, is by far the fanciest stuff that makes sense to put on a street car.
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Old 03-21-2019, 11:35 AM
  #23  
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You will be very happy with these pads. Make sure you bed them properly and have good high temp brake fluid!!
Originally Posted by Newrock View Post
For the type of driving we do, the Hawk High Performance Street look good. Moderately priced. Particularly since there are other issues to resolve, but that's another thread.
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Old 03-21-2019, 02:32 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by sbo76 View Post
There is much more to the equation than will any given pad lock up a wheel or actuate the ABS. I'm sure there are may tests online that will show 100-0 stopping distances with different pads\compounds. Like you said I'm sure any pad will work and has the ability to lock up a tire but not all pads are equal. I have had a few manufactures that I find to be better than others for both street and track conditions. I do track a corvette and M3 and agree its a totally different animal but there are also compounds that are designed to address the added heat and stress of track duty. I would not run my full race set up on the street (EBC Yellow) but my street set up (EBC Red/Stoptech street strip) do just fine on the track and in normal bumper to bumper driving. There is no autozone\checker ceramic pad that comes anywhere close to the pads I mentioned with respects to stopping power.
Your stopping distance is limited by your tires and the frictional coefficient of your tires rolling against the ground (or, if you lack ABS and press the brakes too hard, sliding across the ground).

If your brake pads pressed against your brake rotors can generate enough force to reach that limit of the tire, that's it. Whether through ABS engagement or perfect threshold braking, your car will stop in the distance dictated by the physics of your tires and the surface they ride on. There may be some small improvement in perfect braking over ABS engagement but that's all.

There is no autozone or "checker ceramic pad" that will give you the stopping power you need on the track or in other high heat applications. If you are repeatedly stopping hard enough on the street to hit those high heat applications, reconsider your driving style. I will give some allowance to traffic that keeps stopping from highway speeds, that does happen, if you live in an area like that, get higher end pads. Otherwise, for street driving, save your money.
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Old 03-21-2019, 03:51 PM
  #25  
sbo76
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So you are saying my stopping distance is the same on a $30 autozone brand pad vs my EBC Yellow's if the tires and conditions are the same? (lets call it 100mph to Zero) Only variable being swap out pads with >75% of the pad left. One pull 100 to 0. How about on the 2nd stop, or the 3rd stop? (ie I rarely only hit my brakes once on any trip)


Originally Posted by gimp View Post
Your stopping distance is limited by your tires and the frictional coefficient of your tires rolling against the ground (or, if you lack ABS and press the brakes too hard, sliding across the ground).
If your brake pads pressed against your brake rotors can generate enough force to reach that limit of the tire, that's it. Whether through ABS engagement or perfect threshold braking, your car will stop in the distance dictated by the physics of your tires and the surface they ride on. There may be some small improvement in perfect braking over ABS engagement but that's all.
There is no autozone or "checker ceramic pad" that will give you the stopping power you need on the track or in other high heat applications. If you are repeatedly stopping hard enough on the street to hit those high heat applications, reconsider your driving style. I will give some allowance to traffic that keeps stopping from highway speeds, that does happen, if you live in an area like that, get higher end pads. Otherwise, for street driving, save your money.

Last edited by sbo76; 03-21-2019 at 03:55 PM. Reason: Spelling
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Old 03-21-2019, 05:22 PM
  #26  
gimp
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Feel free to try it. You won't fade your pad or boil your fluid stopping from 100.

If you want to stop repeatedly from 100 in a street-driving scenario, with only some seconds between each acceleration and stop, I have no idea what you're doing, but I hope you are doing it far away from me.

I've autocrossed stock pads before, which requires multiple hard brake applications, often going around 60 mph to around 25-30 mph, which could be representative of a very annoying day in traffic. You know those days, speed up on the highway, slow way down, speed up, slow way down. You probably aren't hitting, say, six braking zones within 50 seconds. But you could be if you drive like an insane person, I guess. I had zero issues doing autox.

I don't buy autozone-branded anything but if they sell a stock-style pad for $30 for the corvette (feel free to drop a link, by the way, for other people to consider buying it), I imagine you would never have an issue street-driving that.
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Old 03-22-2019, 11:02 AM
  #27  
sbo76
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Pads ranging from $25 up. I would not personally use them but whatever folks want to save on is their own decision.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...brake+pad,1684

Originally Posted by gimp View Post
Feel free to try it. You won't fade your pad or boil your fluid stopping from 100.

If you want to stop repeatedly from 100 in a street-driving scenario, with only some seconds between each acceleration and stop, I have no idea what you're doing, but I hope you are doing it far away from me.

I've autocrossed stock pads before, which requires multiple hard brake applications, often going around 60 mph to around 25-30 mph, which could be representative of a very annoying day in traffic. You know those days, speed up on the highway, slow way down, speed up, slow way down. You probably aren't hitting, say, six braking zones within 50 seconds. But you could be if you drive like an insane person, I guess. I had zero issues doing autox.

I don't buy autozone-branded anything but if they sell a stock-style pad for $30 for the corvette (feel free to drop a link, by the way, for other people to consider buying it), I imagine you would never have an issue street-driving that.
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Old 03-22-2019, 12:19 PM
  #28  
Beer:30
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For daily driver. Ordered from rockauto
Full set of discs and ceramic pads $138


CENTRIC10307320 $ 13.55

CENTRIC10307310 $ 16.63

CENTRIC12162062 $ 18.43

CENTRIC12162061 $ 18.93

CENTRIC12162059 $ 22.79

CENTRIC12162060 $ 22.79

ShippingGround $ 24.98

Order Total $ 138.10
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Old 03-22-2019, 03:07 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Newrock View Post
...they said there were two designs for the C5. Design One was no longer available. They were not sure if Design Two would fit (!) as it was not shown for my VIN. Apparently the pads part numbers are different starting at VIN 35128924...
Originally Posted by voda1 View Post
The 1st des vs 2nd des is not about fitment but rather the compound. i.e. semi-metallic or ceramic.
I was not aware of that. It would be very interesting to hear any inside info Evil-Twin might have regarding this.
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Old 03-26-2019, 03:36 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by gimp View Post
So if a brake pad is capable of locking up your tires and activating ABS, you don't need more stopping power. You have enough to stop the car as fast as it physically can stop, given your speed, the friction coefficient of your tires, and your ABS system working properly (or you threshold braking perfectly).
This is incorrect.

Static friction does not equal dynamic friction.

If the tire is rolling - it is in static friction i.e. no or limited slip between the tire and road. When we lock the tire we are in sliding or dynamic friction. As we know - dynamic friction is less than static friction. Hence the invention of ABS to keep the tire rolling.

Your brakes operate in exactly the opposite position. In normal operation the rotor is sliding on the pad i.e. dynamic friction. This has a lower friction coefficient and quickly generates heat which further affects brake pad operation. When the rotor is locked by the pad the brakes are in static friction which is greater than dynamic friction and no further work is done.
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Old 03-26-2019, 03:40 PM
  #31  
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Yes, if a tire is rolling, we're talking static friction; if it is sliding, kinetic friction. ABS exists to keep the tires rolling because the coefficient of friction is higher for static than kinetic.

If you have enough braking power to lock up your brakes, what can more braking power do to help you? Lock up your brakes harder? It won't help you stop faster.

Which part of what I said was incorrect?

Last edited by gimp; 03-26-2019 at 03:41 PM.
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