Hey guys - I posted a similar thread in C5 General a few days ago without much response...hoping to get more input here (plus I have additional info)...

**Original Post***

I hit a deer in the driver's side front on my 2003 coupe last November. Took out the fender, headlight assembly, hood, fender liner, etc.

When I picked it up from the dealer it was sluggish on starting up. Didn't worry that much about it as I drove it straight home and put it to bed for the winter. I attributed it to an old battery and I bought a new one when I took it out of storage a few weeks ago.

I never had this problem before I hit that $%!& deer, but now it won't go more than a few days without dying. Last Friday it started sluggish and I got the "Low Voltage" warning on the DIC for a few minutes at start up. I fully charged the battery and it fired right up on Saturday morning.

Just last night (Tuesday) it had the same problem. Sluggish start and "Low Voltage" warning that went away. Checked codes and both door modules had U1064 (which, to my understanding, means lack of power to the module). HUD resets to oil pressure (I always keep it on fuel level) and the TPMS show blank.

So - obviously - I have battery drain from something. Would there be any component in the driver's side front end that may be the culprit because of the accident? I know that the headlamp motor was bad and they put in a new one. Other than that I plan on getting a meter and following the threads from Bill Curlee on how to check for what's draining.

Just looking to isolate the problem, if possible. I've read that the headlamp control module can be the culprit but that's on the passenger side. Could it have gotten a jolt when the deer exploded the headlight (it was dark when the accident happened) and messed it up?

Thanks

**Updates**

Just last night I charged the battery to full, expecting a return to normal operation this morning. When I fired it up leaving for work it still seemed sluggish. DIC reset to show odometer, but no "Low Voltage" message. Checked codes and had B2723 H from the BCM (which wasn't there last night; this one may be unrelated from what I'm to understand). Had U1064 codes on both the LDCM and the RDCM (those were there from last night though...I should have cleared them but I didn't)..

Pulled it out of the garage and shut it off. Immediately started again and it started up absolutely great with no DIC resetting (weird). Stopped to get gas and started up sluggish again, with DIC reset.

The battery is brand new, but it isn't "top of the line". It is a Everlast MAXX 75N (700 CCA, 90 reserve).

Any ideas what the heck could be going on? Runs fine once started so I wouldn't think the alternator would have anything to do with it, right? And I don't get why, with a fully charged battery, it still starts somewhat sluggish (most of the time) but occasionally fires right up with no issues at all.

Thanks - would appreciate any feedback.

 

With the update you just posted I would say again what I already mentioned in your other thread, check the connectors inside the door accordions for bad/intermittent contacts. I gave you a link with more details in my other Post.

 

Thanks GCG - will check it out. I do question how the door modules would cause an intermittent sluggish start with a fully charged battery, though. How would those items be related? Truthfully, I've had mirror positioning codes get thrown ever since I bought the car 5 years ago. Just started getting the U1064's since I took it out of storage this year and have had the other issues. Plus, if the connectors are the issue, what is the chance that BOTH of them would go out at the same time?

Not questioning your advice...just trying to understand the logic behind it. I'm very aware that sometimes things happen that just don't make normal sense!

Any chance this is an ignition switch issue?

 

Have you attempted to put an amp meter in series with the batter and see if you have an excessive current draw after
the car goes to "sleep". The reading should be under 25 mA.

 

Not yet. That'll be happening as soon as I get some time...

 

Quick update...

Didn't get to check anything out over the weekend as I was out of town. I did start it up last night (Sunday night) when I got home. Super sluggish start, clock reset to 1:00 and DIC reset to odomoter, but no "Low Voltage" message. To note, I had driven it Friday so it had been sitting for only two days.

I put a battery charger on and let it charge all night. Came out this morning and charger said battery was charged. Sluggish (but not as bad as the night before) start and DIC reset to odometer, but clock was still OK. Just for kicks I turned it off and started it again. Somewhat sluggish and got a quick "Low Voltage" message after it was running that went away pretty quick (I'm assuming after the alternator kicked in).

I have an hour drive to work so I monitored the battery voltage all the way. Ranged from 14.1 to 14.3, and it ran great (it always runs great once it's started). That should mean that the alternator is good, right?

Got to work and shut it off. Then I started it again - started perfect with no sluggishness at all.

I'm going to take it up to the local AutoZone on the way home tonight and get the battery load tested. I'm starting to think it's a bad battery (it IS only a month old, though) and not some sort of parasitic battery drain. If it was battery drain only, then it should fire right up after charging all night with no sluggishness or "Low Voltage" messages, right? It should only have issues after it has had time to sit and get the life sucked out of it?

If they say the battery is good then I'll get it home and start doing the drain testing, but is my logic off? The "Low Voltage" message is what is making me thing the battery is weird. If it's "fully charged" then that message shouldn't ever show up, correct?

Also, I checked codes and had B2587 on the BCM, and U1064 on both door modules.

Thanks.

 

Load test said the month-old battery was fully charged, but was bad.

Returned it and put a 78 in instead of a 75. Starts better than it ever has so far. Hopefully that’s the end of it...we’ll see in the morning after it sits awhile.

 

Hope that solved the problem.

If not, I would pull the seat breakers and see if that solves the problem.

If not, check: https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ery-drain.html

 

So far so good!

Truthfully, seeing how well it starts up now makes me realize how the old battery (that I had for a few years before I replaced it and all this mess started) may not have been up to snuff.

Starting has never been more powerful, and the pesky mirror codes I always used to get have pretty much gone away. Time will tell for sure, but I think all’s good.