Erik_Z

Hi,

I've got a leaky input shaft seal on my 6spd manual and I'm about to dive into fixing it. I've dropped the transmission and differential with the torque tube before to replace the clutch and rear seal. But, It seems like there is enough room, after removing exhaust, to disconnect the transmission from the torque tube and just remove the transmission, differential, and rear suspension while leaving the torque tube connected to the engine. Anybody know if this is the case? If so, it seems like it might save some time. Thanks!

mykream

Yes, leave the tunnel plate in the car. That will help the tube and trans separate from each other.

Do all other normal steps. Unbolt shifter from tube and linkage. Unbolt trans from tube. Lower the cradle out and have a jack under the trans/diff to hold it up.. Then when the cradle is out, lower and separate the trans/diff from the tube.

Bill Curlee

Absolutely.. That is the only way I will do a clutch change job. Disconnect the Trans/Diff as a unit and then remove the TT from the bell housing. Assembly in reverse order.

NOTE! There is an ANGLE LIMIT that the drive train can be angled to. Its posted on the passengers side of the tunnel. If you exceed that angle, the intake manifold will crush into the fire wall cowl area. Some people remove the intake manifold and get a little more angle to work.

While it out, think about changing the differential output shaft seals. They seem to leak after service like that if you don't change them.

I would also check to see if you have any cracked differential Belleview springs. They are the cupped springs inside the Diff that apply pressure on the limited slip clutch packs so they slip and grip at the correct time. Easy to do.

Jack up one rear wheel. (other one on the ground). Put Trans in neutral, E-brake OFF. Try to rotate the wheel that is off the ground. It should resist rotation but you should be able to break it free. You can put a torque wrench on the rear hub bolt and measure the torque required to break it free.

Do the same to the other wheel. They should BOTH break free around the same torque value. A C5 with high mileage and working clutches should be around 50-70 ft/lbs. Seen bad ones in the 20-30 ft/lbs readings.

mykream

And mine at 15 hahaha

Bill Curlee

How many miles do you have on the drive train?

I would check to see if your shift linkage rod universal joints are excessively worn while you have the trans/diff out. Its an excellent time to inspect them and if they are worn replace them.
There is an excellent replacement shaft and a replacement shifter lower box available. A forum member makes them and they really firm up the shift on a car with high miles.

Look/search for TMODcustoms. He does excellent work.

Erik_Z

This is all very helpful. Thanks. The car is a 2000 with 140k mi. I recently did the harmonic balancer and front engine seal which was a hell of a job. I'll be sure to change the output shaft seals, check the diff springs, and check/replace the shift linkage rod u-joint . Thanks for the tips.

Pipedream

This thread is heaven sent...

I am removing my trans to have it rebuilt and REALLY did not want to pull the TQ tube. I just replaced the clutch with a McLeod RST... and do NOT want to pull the TQ tube back out. Absolute bitch to line it backup.

Any advice or guidance would be greatly appreciated!

Take Care,

Pounder

I use long studs (2) to help guide the trans back in straight !!!!!!

Sub8

I`ve also just had to remove my trans for diff o-ring. Unbolt TT from gearbox and lower out the back, you can get too all the bell housing bolts before you lower anything. Leave exhaust centre and tunnel plate in place. The tunnel plate stops the engine rocking too far back and damaging firewall etc.

The rear upper control arm bolts are nice and long and can used to (carefully) guide trans housing back onto torque tube.