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Can you safely manual shift the auto for racing purposes like back inthe day when they had ratchet shifters? I read on videos that it tore up the wave band rings in the clutches or could cause transmission failure. Is it safe to drop the car to 2nd gear at 30mph ive done it once and the car simply had more power then trying to floor converter flashing geting sideways. More control of the vehicle powertrain. Ive also raced it once when it was stock header only from 2nd-3 i didnt want to a slow 10mph highway roll in 1st the other guy insisted on doing late at night as it attracts cops.
So can you safely 1-2-3 it at the track? or street or will damage the stock auto transmission components. Is that gear selection for towing, snow driving starting in 2nd in wet road conditions?
I don’t know about damaging the transmission, but you will surely cause the shift linkage to come loose. There are nylon grommets at both ends of the shift cable. They are prone to fail anyway. I’m certain that a lot of manual shifting will hurry that failure along.
yeah i seen they sell plastic shifter cups for the ends of the auto trans cable mine were in good shape or atleast the bottom one was when i had dropped the transmission last year. I just noticed the car is just as as fun as a six speed when manual shifted in daily driver 1-2-3 ive only done it a few times. I seen on youtube precision transmissions comments on rebuilds where he notices the guy that sent in the transmission did alot of manual shifting where the wave rings in the transmission were wore out.
Most track cars are auto but i enjoy manual and clutch dumps and with the auto this cant be done. Im trying to sell the 99 auto corvette to get back into another 6 speed ls1 f-body which has 3.42s 2-3 6 gears vs the long 2 and drive 3rd with 3.15s of the auto corvette. Now not sure a torque converter qould help 3200-3600 stahl but with the auto when floored itll flash and get away causing a wrecked car unless had mt et streets daily driver.
By a rough count, I have upshifted my A4 at full throttle from 2nd to third 6,000 times on road course tracks as well as the same number of manual downshifts. During this time I have removed the trans pan and filter five times for fluid and filter change. I ONLY use Red Line D4 full synthetic transmission fluid. Never anything of note in the pan.
On the street I also often downshift to 3rd or 2nd and later manually upshift.
At 118,000 miles and 24 days on track, it runs better now than when I bought it 13 years ago.
Since I was changing rear drives in 2015, I changed the shift cable also. The old one looked perfect, especially the bushings at each end.
By a rough count, I have upshifted my A4 at full throttle from 2nd to third 6,000 times on road course tracks as well as the same number of manual downshifts. During this time I have removed the trans pan and filter five times for fluid and filter change. I ONLY use Red Line D4 full synthetic transmission fluid. Never anything of note in the pan.
On the street I also often downshift to 3rd or 2nd and later manually upshift.
At 118,000 miles and 24 days on track, it runs better now than when I bought it 13 years ago.
Since I was changing rear drives in 2015, I changed the shift cable also. The old one looked perfect, especially the bushings at each end.
Is this with the stock trans no modifications? Just a transcooler? I think its only necessary to change the filter and trans fluid per manual so many miles 30k-70k whatever the manual says not sure. I changed my fluid last summer had the stock metal paper filter put in a plastic autozone 20$ filter and synthetic 6 trans fluid. Compatible with dex 3+ according to other trans specialists.
So the stock trans can handle alot of manual shifting say from D to 2nd at 40mph or 1 at 10-20mph without causing any problems on the street? The track can 1-2-3 it no problems off the line? I find with traction control on the car still gets sideways enough to wreck or spins straight without killing the power.
You're the person i talked to who put a Tru Cool Max 40,000 40K GVW Transmission Performance Oil Cooler Heavy Duty 47391 or was considering changing from the standard round tube transcooler to the flat plate style? Or was that someone else i think ron or someone said they use the b&m 220$ transcooler flat plate style. Im still deciding to put a transcooler someday as the temps get up to 107 degrees last week here in texas reading on my weather phone app and in car outside air temp sensor on the AC head unit. After 30-60 minute trips the cars trans temps get up to coolant temps 200 degrees+ after passing thru the radiator. Ive read on summit the 40-60$ round fin style transcoolers lowered the trans temps by 30 degrees. Hoping to maybe put one on soon. At what temp will cause transmission issues or be harder on the transmission 230-260 degrees? I dont road race but am interested in 1/4 mile racing and daily driving lowering the temps.
Last edited by Justin Raney; 06-18-2022 at 01:06 AM.
Yes my car has a stock transmission, with a B&M finned aluminum transmission pan (2 extra quarts). The car also has a DeWitts radiator with both engine oil cooler and transmission cooler. Transmission fluid flow is to the radiator then the the auxiliary cooler in front of the radiator, shown below. The auxiliary is cooler is too small for Arizona road course track use after April but was fine at Laguna Seca and Buttonwillow in California. During my May 7 track day I came off track a lap early on the later sessions because transmission temperature hit my personal limit of 250. Note that the High Transmission Temp warning is triggered at 270. Yes, I am planning a 40,000 GVW cooler instead of the current one which I recall is 20,000 GVW. On the street or 75 mph freeway at 114 outside air temperature the existing cooler keeps transmission temperature at or below OAT +90 degrees.
Remember this is NOT drag racing, it is road course-- Arizona Motorsports park is 2.3 miles around, 16 turns. I ONLY use 2nd and 3rd on track. AND Red Line D4 full synthetic ATF.
Yes my car has a stock transmission, with a B&M finned aluminum transmission pan (2 extra quarts). The car also has a DeWitts radiator with both engine oil cooler and transmission cooler. Transmission fluid flow is to the radiator then the the auxiliary cooler in front of the radiator, shown below. The auxiliary is cooler is too small for Arizona road course track use after April but was fine at Laguna Seca and Buttonwillow in California. During my May 7 track day I came off track a lap early on the later sessions because transmission temperature hit my personal limit of 250. Note that the High Transmission Temp warning is triggered at 270. Yes, I am planning a 40,000 GVW cooler instead of the current one which I recall is 20,000 GVW. On the street or 75 mph freeway at 114 outside air temperature the existing cooler keeps transmission temperature at or below OAT +90 degrees.
Remember this is NOT drag racing, it is road course-- Arizona Motorsports park is 2.3 miles around, 16 turns. I ONLY use 2nd and 3rd on track. AND Red Line D4 full synthetic ATF.
I looked at it from the road racing perspective as well when i take the car on hour long trips to run errands in 100 degree weather. Short trips usually 170-180 but by the time i get back the coolant temps already heated the trans temps to 200+ degrees. I was under the assumption that 260 degrees was enough to melt seals and stuff in the transmission. Im still looking at the lpd 40k tru kool transcooler as well if i ever get that far with the car. Id like a 3.90-4.10 gear swap for 1/4 mile racing purposes but with the cam the tuner left the rev limiter stock 6200 and 6k shiftpoints vs the manual cam tuning which is usually 6600 rev limiter and 6400-6500 shifting 6 speeds. This is my first auto v8 car from age 17-24 i had a 4 speed toploader 66 fairlane with 4.10s and 3.25 gear as a daily driver, 95 z28 6 speed with 4.10s that would go to 110mph in 4th with the stock 5700 rev limiter and a 98 z28 6 speed stock rear 3.42 375/375 whp wtq 501whp/465 wtq 6lbs s475 turbo. Im still debating on selling the auto corvette in favor of another 6 speed f-body ls1 which you can do clutch dumps in and the 6 speed trans is stronger then the 4l60e with a good clutch but all the work ive done to my 99 corvette to make it a good daily driver i feel whatever vehicle id get next would need the same repairs as they're 20-23 year old cars at this point youd have to find something that was garage kept or safe from weather. I had to part with my 98 z28 hard top, stage 2 6 speed trans, 347 forged shortblock, 317s, s475 turbo kit in 2014 due to a family emergency. Yes if you ask i nearly thought the auto v8 would be just as much fun as the 6 speed cars i lived about 15 minutes from san antonio raceway or the local drag strip.
How hot is hot enough to wear the auto transmission out faster and is cooler fluid say 170-200 the best temp? Does the fluid need to be up to a certain temp before racing or beating on the car?
My brother has an 06 saab 9-5 2.3 turbo 260hp 260tq at 1900 rpms auto 5 speed and it has a traction control button "ESP" and a sport mode "S" button right on the shifter that shifts the auto trans at 4-5k rpms even light or part throttled vs the normal 2-3k shift points and i think "M" mode or manual paddle shifters id have to take a second look. If only gm had manufactured one of these nice auto trans styles on the c5 corvettes.
Jegs has a 600hp XHD street/strip converter for 560$ 3600rpm stahl. If i had to opt for one id pick the highest stahl with lock up but a gear change with the stock converter would be nice just with 6k rpm or tire height change be limited to 110-120mph.
I used valvoline synthetic 6 fluid which says is compatible with all other fluids last year when changing the filter and rebuilding the torque tube.
Heres my 99 corvette auto stock 3.15 gear, tsp headers, stock 2.5 exhaust, volant oval air filter, solid ebay torque tube couplers, elgin 1839 286/282 220/224 .575 lift cam, pac 1219s, tsp 7.4 pushrods 349whp/351wtq thru the auto. ( they should have used atleast 3.42s for the performance axle package this thing does 80mph easily at 2200rpm on the highway which causes speeding) My 98 z28 had a smaller bullet cam from a ls2 trailblazer ss i was told, pb ud pulley, hooker headers, 6 speed 3.42s and made 375/375 whp/wtq which ran 114-116mph 1/4 mile passes. With the s475 turbo 6lbs 125mph 1/4 mile passes 501hp. With 9lbs maxed out injectors 42lb or white svo injectors 120% duty cycle and racetronix 255 fuel pump and relay kit 128-129-131mph 12.06 with 315 nitto drag radials in midnite 40 degree weather. Usually 126mph in the heat at the track.
Someone had told me they used 4.5" tips which i should have atleast went with 4" i didn't realize it and went with 3.5" single tips. There is a used borla s type single tip exhaust for 250$ a guy is selling with the over the axle pipes the cheaper 1000$ borla exhaust but i just spent 140$ at the exhaust shop 3 months ago. It does feel like it added a little torque simply driving from a stop the hankook ventus 12 evo 2 275/40/18s spin or break loose simply taking off or driving home from the exhaust shop.
I have NO experience drag racing a C5. My goal has been to make ME faster on a road course track. To that end the engine is stock and I had A&A Corvette set rev limit at 5,800*.
From my perspective, the A4 allows me more time to focus on my driving on a road course track. Plus, I don't lift on upshifts and can gain a car length over a manual whose driver lets up to shift.
As far as damaging transmission temperatures go, my opinion is that use of FULL synthetic fluid keeps the fluid from oxidizing and making damaging deposits. Keep in mind that a fluid and filter change in a stock C5 only removes about half the fluid in the transmission. The rest is in the non draining torque converter and other works. After a fluid and filter change, half of the fluid in the transmission is OLD fluid.
Factory high temperature warning with dinosaur fluid is 270, I choose a lower limit to increase longevity.
There is some evidence that earlier A4's are not as physically strong as later. Some research would be needed to define the range and effect.
I need to get faster, not the car. I want the 21 year old stock engine C5 to teach me how.
My car needed no cooling mods when I started road course tracks in 2011--- but as I got faster, transmission fluid, oil and coolant temperatures climbed. 13 track years later I need to add still more transmission cooling.
Street driving, in my opinion does not forecast transmission temperature on a road course track, where, as you get faster, you have the car at full throttle more of the time and temperatures go UP.
My car is still teaching me new faster ways of driving. Here is a good example, Laguna Seca in December 2019, rain or pouring rain. NO temperature issues with my car. The trailered 370 Z with a wing was faster and passed me-- until he spun into the mud. I learned a lot on that very rainy day.
Here you see No.75 on the car, my age in 2019, and coincidentally Track Day 19. After this September it will be No.78 for Track Day 25.
It is a journey that each of of us decides-- and all of us are different.
*I don't hit rev limit quite as often as I used to-
I changed most of the fluid when i rebuilt the torque tube last year. The whole transmission had to come out as well as radiator for cam swap. Had all the trans cooler lines disconnected torque converter out. Should mostly be synthetic 6 fluid. Id like to have a 3.90-4.10 gear set for my 99 stock converter, auto medium cam, header car. For drag racing purposes. On the auto compared to the 6 speed 2nd is way long as well as 3rd or D with 3.15s vs having a 123 4 1:1 and 3.42s.
You can test it for yourself, but in my experience these engines like to be short shifted (5500) at the strip...several tenths worth of gain. If interested pm me and I can give you details on how to do it safely.
You can test it for yourself, but in my experience these engines like to be short shifted (5500) at the strip...several tenths worth of gain. If interested pm me and I can give you details on how to do it safely.
5500?rpm? I have a cam i think 6k is perfect i had the car 3k above manual shifting and 5k floored one day big power 350whp. If it was 6 speed id have the limiter set to 6600 and 6400-6500 manual shifts.
yeah man just with the auto the traction control doesnt kick in like it should when floored it yanks sideways hit the track wall looking for better tires. Manual cars are alot easier to control. I use 295/35/18 bridgestone potenza re760s currently.
At the time of looking for a v8 ls1 car last year my left arm was killing me needed a sling to hold it up on shoulders. In 2017 some idiot ran into the back of my 2001 escort when i was 27 causing whiplash, threw every disc, tore my spine in half right in the middle, split my ribcage up the middle infront and knocked my intestines out and snapped my neck right at the shoulder line. Snapped my left arm as it was on the steering wheel. A 98 crv driving 40-50mph flew right into the back of my 2600lb escort at a stop waiting for oncoming traffic to pass before i made a left turn onto the street i lived on. Ive never once been in a car wreck and the hospital didnt help me neither did her insurance with it being her fault. I thought maybe id loose my left arm but it healed just a little crooked. Heres when i was laid out 7 months in my home bedrest trying to recover.
I should have went with the 6 speed. My arm has recovered somewhat and looking to possibly sell the auto corvette to get another 6 speed ls1 f-body.
06-16-2022, 07:20 PM
manual shifting auto A4 stock trans
