Current issue:
If I push down on the gas too much the car kind of jerks before eventually accelerating, but once I let back out again the car will drive normally.
What would cause this?

Update on me having to refill coolant and oil every week or so (Past issue resolved)
Turned out the valve cover gasket was bad which was causing oil and coolant to need to be refilled every week or so since it was leaking. (Replaced 2 weeks ago)
Radiator had a small leak and water pump was also leaking. They both needed replaced. (Replaced 2 weeks ago)
AC was fully recharged as the whole coolant system had to be flushed and fixed (Recharged 2 weeks ago)
Changed the oil (Changed 2 weeks ago)

Update on car running lean
Car running lean PCV Line was old and cracked (They unhooked whatever was installed here and replaced it with this)
Rough idle or car not idling down until car is warmed up enough was resolved by replacing this.
The red cover seems to be a temporary fix can anyone tell me where I get the actual part to replace this? What is that red part called that goes there?
Would this cause the jerking if it somehow slipped off again and its leaking?



Update on power fluctuation battery draw issue where battery would not remain stable
Car monoblock subwoofer amplifier was the problem. Changed to 5 channel amp with more power regulation that uses less amps (Installed 5 months ago 0 problems)
5 channel is way more efficient requiring less power draw on the corvette's electrical system, while keeping the battery running properly.
Installed a big 3 upgrade kit to regulate power better.
Upgraded all speakers, headunits, and subwoofers for a system focusing on sound quality vs heavy bass.
Lights stopped dimming

All in all I have had to spend almost 4K in repairs and fixes so far this year alone on the car and now I have this issue.
Now I am having a seperate issue where my car wants to jerk when I try to accelerate too fast. If I take off slowly and gradually accelerate there is no jerking.
If I press too hard on the gas it jerks.

 

Just a few ideas to help your investigation...

Pull codes and see if you have any indicating a leak (just some of them- (P0442, P0420, P0171,P0174).

Seeing you were lean it sounds like you still have a vaccum leak and or a stuck butterfly in the TB. Check air duct/intake for loose connections. Same for MAF is it securely connected on both sides and plugged in. Perhaps needs a cleaning (just be careful) also clean the TB it's probably due for a cleans anyway.

That red cap is for the connection to the Evap Solenoid. The system was removed by the previous owner. Does your car have aftermarket headers? If not check to ensure the stock manifolds have a block off plate bolted on where the old flange for the EGR system bolted to the driver side manifold.

 

Sometimes, but not always, a bottle of Dry Gas can do wonders. About once each spring, my car develops a high speed miss/hesitation. Also about once each spring, the Dry Gas fixes it. First time this ever happened was 3 years ago this coming spring (2023), at the worst possible time. I was back in Michigan, when an early pre-production C8 passed me, partially disguised with the "zebra" camo. My car ran fine at a steady 70, 80, even 90mph with steady throttle. I pulled up next to the guy, trying to get him to show me how fast the new C8 was. He wouldn't bite, so I threw my car into 2nd gear@around 65mph, and it promptly took off, missing and occasionally sputtering!!! I was so embarrassed. Guy probably thought 'what a piece of junk!!'

 

Now that's a funny story! You almost had him.

Good call on the fuel treatment. I've never had this type of hesitation in the C5 but my F150 would do this if I drive in overdrive and got on the throttle over 85mph. I had the issue for a while. But I typically used the truck for Home Depot runs and local 45mph driving so I forgot about it. Dumped a can of SeaFoam in a new tank of 93 and the issue was gone. Likely a clogged injector in my case.

For $8 it can't hurt.

 

Long story short I loaned my car to a family member for 3 years while I drove my cummins.
Today I discovered that my family member was putting 87 in it for 3 years. I immediately ran the tank down to 27 miles remaining, cleared the codes, put some seafoam in at 27 miles remaining, then added fresh 93 gas for a complete top off.
No codes have returned. I am hoping it was just bad gas.
Hopefully that fixes it, as I am pretty sure the original gas cap said 93 only for a 01 Z06.

I was going to buy chevron with techron, but most mechanics use seafoam more than any other fuel system cleaner. The parts store told me when mechanics come in for fuel system cleaner, seafoam outsells every other brand.They have to keep on restocking seafoam. So now for my question. If someone ran 87 in a car for 3 years, how often should I be using seafoam or any other fuel system cleaner on the car? Thanks in advance.

Quote:

Sometimes, but not always, a bottle of Dry Gas can do wonders. About once each spring, my car develops a high speed miss/hesitation. Also, about once each spring, the Dry Gas fixes it. The first time this ever happened was 3 years ago this coming spring (2023), at the worst possible time. I was back in Michigan, when an early pre-production C8 passed me, partially disguised with the "zebra" camo. My car ran fine at a steady 70, 80, even 90mph with steady throttle. I pulled up next to the guy, trying to get him to show me how fast the new C8 was. He wouldn't bite, so I threw my car into 2nd

I can just picture your face, man.

 

Missing/hesitation under load is usually a sign of weak ignition as it will misfire under load. I would check all the plugs and wires. If they are good one of your coils could be failing...

 

The LS1 nor LS6 like that low grade fuel. It's 87 grade that it hated. Sounds like you lucked out. No codes and she's not falling on her face anymore. So you should be good. I know who would never borrow my vette ever again.

You'll get different responses to your question based on personal preference mostly. I would run the SeaFoam in the next fill up then run it every other tank. But there's no magic formula to fuel treatment religion.

And yes...if 93 grade top tier is available in your state/area thats what you should be using in your C5.

 

I can't imagine loaning my car out to anyone. But if I ever did, I'd NEVER loan it out for years at a time!!!

 

I agree on the "usually." But, IMHO, the LS engines have a GREAT ignition setup from the factory. That's why I'm thinking he got a bad load of fuel, though that's much rarer now than 40 years ago.....

 

My Mass airflow sensor is possibly dirty, which explains why my car is jerking and hesitating. I bought a Delphi AF10043 for my 2001 Z06 it says 15821 on the sticker what does this mean.

The dephi AF10043 was $129.99
The blue streak was $84.99 is there any real difference between these two for the price difference.
The blue streak said 748411 on the label. The AF10043 has no P/N anywhere on it.

The P/N installed in my car is 748411, but when they ran the P/N at the auto parts store. They said this one was compatible with a 2001 Z06 corvette I just want to make sure.
I'm kind of hesitant to install it. Once you install a part. You cannot return it if it does not work.

This right here is my current MAF that came with the car. Does this look okay or is it damaged?

I just put MAF sensor cleaner on it. I noticed when I removed it that somehow the honeycomb got damaged prior to removal. Is that honeycomb damage to substantial to be re-usable?

 

Leak between throttle body and air filter. The crimp clamps are a common culprit

 

This was exactly what it was. I put a new MAF sensor in, cleaned the filters, and re-secured all the clamps. Started the car and let it idle for 2-3 minutes before realizing I forgot to plug back in the MAF sensor cord. Oddly enough the car was drivable without the cord plugged in. It did not stall eventhough all youtube videos say it should die as soon as the cord is pulled. After 1 minute of driving and realizing it I stopped and plugged back in the MAF sensor cord.

After I put a brand new MAF sensor in it, I now get a traction control light coming on. How do I fix this. Here is the video with the codes remaining after the MAF sensor was replaced.


Before I replaced the MAF sensor I put seaform in the gas tank and tried cleaning the old MAF sensor with CRC MAF sensor cleaner. The car ran pretty bad. During my last two fuel ups I put half a bottle of chevron with techron complete fuel system cleaner in it to make sure the injectors and everything got cleaned good and proper. This seems to have resolved the hesitation issues, but now I have traction control lights coming on.
It says its a history code, but you see that every single time I start the car it reappears. As you can see the car only has 98,472 miles on it with it being 22 years old. The engine with proper care and maintenance should last for another 200,000 miles. Someone offered to buy it from me for $18,000 given the low mileage and shape of the engine. Do you think thats a good deal if I decide to sell? Please excuse the loud exhaust and shaking the car is heavily modified. Marc over at VetteNuts did all of the modifications on this car.

22 years later and the car is still in good shape with only 98,472 miles. The car should be capable of running for another 200,000 miles. The interior is very clean and engine has been stated as being in great shape by everyone who's worked on it.


Their expert team is highly skilled at working on corvettes.
https://vettenuts.net

 

Barring the obvious that you left something disconnected Don't worry because the stark codes will self-clear after you start the car a few more times. You can also clear it with an OBD reader a few times turn the car off each time after you clear it
Good looking at your video it does look like you have some things wrong. Do a look up for those codes and trace it down man Let us know what you find