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You do have to take the console out but should be able to reach the front grommet without removing the shift boot. Be careful if you do this, though. There is not a lot of play in the shift cable itself and it is fairly easy to get a kink in the linkage. If you do get a kink it is virtually impossible to get out so that the cable will slide freely back and forth.
If you are replacing the rear grommet it is very easy - the linkage is on the right side of the transmission (toward the passenger side). Just be sure that the physical location of the lever on the trans corresponds to the gear your shifter was in when the bushing failed.
The shop rate you were quoted for the replacement of the shifter cable does not seem out of line. There is a lot of time consuming work to do to gain access to the cable for replacement. Nothing technical but you do have to loosen or drop your mid-pipes and drop the under carriage tunnel plate/torque tube center floor pan cover (or whatever the proper name is); 34 bolts to remove and replace if I remember correctly on that. The trick with the string and hanger BRKLYN suggested sounds like a nice work around!
Even though I had the car running with just the replacement grommet, I decided to go ahead with the complete shift linkage replacement. With over 90k miles this was cheap insurance (and our son owns a full service garage with several lifts which makes it easy to work under the car). 😎
You do have to take the console out but should be able to reach the front grommet without removing the shift boot. Be careful if you do this, though. There is not a lot of play in the shift cable itself and it is fairly easy to get a kink in the linkage. If you do get a kink it is virtually impossible to get out so that the cable will slide freely back and forth.
If you are replacing the rear grommet it is very easy - the linkage is on the right side of the transmission (toward the passenger side). Just be sure that the physical location of the lever on the trans corresponds to the gear your shifter was in when the bushing failed.
The shop rate you were quoted for the replacement of the shifter cable does not seem out of line. There is a lot of time consuming work to do to gain access to the cable for replacement. Nothing technical but you do have to loosen or drop your mid-pipes and drop the under carriage tunnel plate/torque tube center floor pan cover (or whatever the proper name is); 34 bolts to remove and replace if I remember correctly on that. The trick with the string and hanger BRKLYN suggested sounds like a nice work around!
Even though I had the car running with just the replacement grommet, I decided to go ahead with the complete shift linkage replacement. With over 90k miles this was cheap insurance (and our son owns a full service garage with several lifts which makes it easy to work under the car). 😎
Thank you so much. Great information sharing. Much appreciated.
Mark
You do have to take the console out but should be able to reach the front grommet without removing the shift boot. Be careful if you do this, though. There is not a lot of play in the shift cable itself and it is fairly easy to get a kink in the linkage. If you do get a kink it is virtually impossible to get out so that the cable will slide freely back and forth.
If you are replacing the rear grommet it is very easy - the linkage is on the right side of the transmission (toward the passenger side). Just be sure that the physical location of the lever on the trans corresponds to the gear your shifter was in when the bushing failed.
The shop rate you were quoted for the replacement of the shifter cable does not seem out of line. There is a lot of time consuming work to do to gain access to the cable for replacement. Nothing technical but you do have to loosen or drop your mid-pipes and drop the under carriage tunnel plate/torque tube center floor pan cover (or whatever the proper name is); 34 bolts to remove and replace if I remember correctly on that. The trick with the string and hanger BRKLYN suggested sounds like a nice work around!
Even though I had the car running with just the replacement grommet, I decided to go ahead with the complete shift linkage replacement. With over 90k miles this was cheap insurance (and our son owns a full service garage with several lifts which makes it easy to work under the car). 😎
I have the console out for shift indicator replacement and tried to replace the front grommet but couldn't pull the shifter up enough to get to it because of the cable going forward to the dash and couldn't see how it was attached. Help please, since it is still apart.
St. Jude Donor '14-'15-'16-'17-'18-'19-'20-'21-'22-'23
Originally Posted by alblosser
I have the console out for shift indicator replacement and tried to replace the front grommet but couldn't pull the shifter up enough to get to it because of the cable going forward to the dash and couldn't see how it was attached. Help please, since it is still apart.
I got stuck at the Orthopedic Dr office this morning in my 2002 auto hatchback. Backed out and no more shifting, no start as it was in reverse. My Insurance paid for the Tow to the shop. Long story short, replacing the cable cost $478.00. Does this sound about right done in a shop? Sounds like a lot for a plastic fitting that popped off. Thank you.
The shift cable is comprised of a braided cable with a cheap plastic jacket so I decided to buy one of the 30 dollar ones on eBay and did it on Jack stands, it took me about 2 hours but it sounds like I saved a pretty penny.