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Hey y'all
I'm trying to remove my brake rotor and thus brake caliper bracket so I can replace my wheel hub, but I simply cannot take off the brake caliper bracket on my rear driver side. Passenger side was easy as I just had to stand on my breaker bar but I simply cannot fit and pull up on the driver side. If anyone has had a problem like this, what did you do? I'm asking here on corvetteforum in case anyone has a solution that fits in the tight wheel well. I've dropped a ton of WD-40 and PB Blaster to try and get it loose as well as yanking on a 2 foot breaker bar to no avail. I'd appreciate any ideas that could help me!
You have to break that bond. After that the bolt will move.
Try tightening. Mark the position so you know if it has moved.
Heat - propane or butane micro torch right on the head for a few seconds.
Impact driver.
I found that an impact was the solution for me. The combination of impact and torque broke the bolts free when a long breaker bar wouldn't get it done. My impact is an old 1/2" pneumatic Craftsman -- old enough it was made in Japan. Now-a-days, I'd be very tempted to try a lithium cordless -- but no smaller than 1/2" drive. I'd look at Dewalt and Craftsman first, since I already have batteries and chargers. Lot of good reviews of various units on YouTube:
Penetrating oil is a must, I failed on that reference. My problem over the years has been breaking seriously stuck bolts. I’ve broken bolts with both an impact driver and a severe leverage breaker bar, but it’s been a lot more often with a bar. Something about the impacts of the driver.
Not sure if the bolts can be safely heated or not. Something about heating steel threaded into aluminum worries me.
Take the handle off your floor jack and use it as a extension on your 2ft breaker.
EXACTLY THIS!!! I've done this quite a few times thru the years. I once broke an off brand breaker bar! But it flat works. If people dont have a torch, use Kroil or another good brand of penetrating oil, a breaker bar, the floor jack handle, and work the bolt back and forth until it breaks free....
Penetrating oil is a must, I failed on that reference. My problem over the years has been breaking seriously stuck bolts. I’ve broken bolts with both an impact driver and a severe leverage breaker bar, but it’s been a lot more often with a bar. Something about the impacts of the driver.
Not sure if the bolts can be safely heated or not. Something about heating steel threaded into aluminum worries me.
Fellas, a 1/2 impact driver worked like a DREAM, so thanks for that suggestion! When I used it there was a nasty orangey rust colored vapor that floated out - is that just the rust vaporizing? It was cool to see but a bit concerning as I wasn't wearing a mask or anything.
Other than that I was contemplating using a floor jack on my breaker bar, but I had already started to round off the bolt so I thought that might wear them out more.
The caliper bracket bolts come from the factory with an orange thread locker on them. Much harder to break free than blue thread locker. Probably what you saw removing the bolts. Some of the orange thread locker will still be on the bolts you removed.
When I re install the caliper bracket bolts, I use blue thread locker. I f yours are rounded it may be a good idea to replace them.
I f yours are rounded it may be a good idea to replace them.
The FSM directs replacement of the bolts when removed -- but I don't think I've heard of anyone doing so unless the heads are rounded or similar. Factory bolts are 14084501, which must be used with the 14080254 washers. Don't throw those washers away. Bolts are $6 at Rock, don't find them many other places.
The caliper bracket bolts come from the factory with an orange thread locker on them. Much harder to break free than blue thread locker. Probably what you saw removing the bolts. Some of the orange thread locker will still be on the bolts you removed.
When I re install the caliper bracket bolts, I use blue thread locker. I f yours are rounded it may be a good idea to replace them.
I was thinking about reusing red but honestly blue should do the trick. Thanks for the suggestion
Blue thread locker has held fine on Caliper bracket bolts and also the smaller ones that secure the caliper sliding pins for 14 years, four pad changes so far on my C5.
Posts 17 and 18 are spot on. Red Loctite, and I'm dating myself here, used to be called Stud and Bearing mount. Without heat, it will twist bolts and studs off. However, some guys can use too much of the blue "removable" stuff, and run into trouble, too. DO NOT use blue on flat head screws. Don't ask.....
I did the same as others. My car was on a Quickjack, used a floor jack under the breaker bar. Bolts came loose. I did the opposite to tighten them.
I have to be careful using wrenches, or ratchets, I have a herniated C6, C7 disk. I know I’m in trouble when the pain shoots into my left arm. The pulling and pushing of wrenches puts strain on your neck.