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Has anyone gone to a standalone PCM while attempting to keep the BCM? Is there anything special needed? I'm thinking of rolling with a PSI PCM, wiring harness, and TAC module. Thinking of keeping the BCM for now, maybe getting rid of it as it starts to fail for a racewire or something else? I've fixed my PCM issues but im worried on when it fails again - thinking of prepping to swap in an entire new PCM, rewire to run it to the trunk or behind the passenger compartment...
If anyone has experience with the PSI PCM swap, did your odometer work fine after the swap? How about the speedo, tacho, and any other indicators like fuel, water temp, oil pressure, and battery? Any strange issues experienced?
I was unfamiliar with PSI. Looking them up, they appear to sell OEM pcms for engine swaps. What would be your goal or benefit to this if your current PCM and harness are intact?
As for odometer readings, those are in the dash in two places apparently. I know the displayed reading is on the chip labeled U13. If you ever swap clusters you can swap the board over and all is well unless it was the board itself which was problematic.
As for aftermarket ECUs? Haltech Rebel LS is $1400 right now on sale. More options and configs than most and it can be installed in tandem or stand-alone with your factory unit if you wish to retain dash/gauge function or run a custom screen instead.
I was unfamiliar with PSI. Looking them up, they appear to sell OEM pcms for engine swaps. What would be your goal or benefit to this if your current PCM and harness are intact?
As for odometer readings, those are in the dash in two places apparently. I know the displayed reading is on the chip labeled U13. If you ever swap clusters you can swap the board over and all is well unless it was the board itself which was problematic.
As for aftermarket ECUs? Haltech Rebel LS is $1400 right now on sale. More options and configs than most and it can be installed in tandem or stand-alone with your factory unit if you wish to retain dash/gauge function or run a custom screen instead.
Sky is the limit.
Thanks for some extra thoughts on the Haltech unit... I've thought of going to a standalone (haltech, holley, etc). but I was wondering if the harness work would be more involved. The reason for going with the PSI PCM would be to have a backup for when this PCM dies due to water intrusion, failed components, etc. I have a 97-98 PCM which costs $1400 if I buy a reman, vs a 99+ which is in the $100 or so range. I was wondering if the PSI harness/PCM was swappable with the 97/98 unit.
That's a question I cannot answer. I suggest using Google to search on the corvetteforum.com for that topic as the internal search function is often only mildly productive when seeking uncommon topics.
I was unfamiliar with PSI. Looking them up, they appear to sell OEM pcms for engine swaps. What would be your goal or benefit to this if your current PCM and harness are intact?
As for odometer readings, those are in the dash in two places apparently. I know the displayed reading is on the chip labeled U13. If you ever swap clusters you can swap the board over and all is well unless it was the board itself which was problematic.
As for aftermarket ECUs? Haltech Rebel LS is $1400 right now on sale. More options and configs than most and it can be installed in tandem or stand-alone with your factory unit if you wish to retain dash/gauge function or run a custom screen instead.
Sky is the limit.
The Product Overview That I just watched from Haltech states that the Rebel LS wont work with the factory wiring harnesses, and it wont communicate with any factory communication signals such as the BCM. So the Dash, ABS, BCM wouldn't function properly. It is strictly a stand alone only.
I can verify that you can splice all the same signal wires to the oem ecu so it receives info and can run the dash. The Rebel harness plugs into existing sensors. AH will not function be I the oem ecu will not be controlling the engine.
I can verify that you can splice all the same signal wires to the oem ecu so it receives info and can run the dash. The Rebel harness plugs into existing sensors. AH will not function be I the oem ecu will not be controlling the engine.
Correct...just wanted to clarify that there isnt a plug n play piggy back. Hours of information gathering have to go into studying the factory wiring pinout, and what works/doesn't work so that the car still behaves normally.
I am curious of how the appropriate signal wires needed are split between the factory and aftermarket PCM. Is the wire unpinned from the sensor connector, cut the terminals off, then put the 2 wires into a new terminal and then inserted back into the sensor connector?