maverickks

OK guys, here is a good one for you. I have had the wonderful "pull key out and wait 10 seconds" message coming up and I thought that I fixed it with a new key, until last night. I got out to fill up the vette, removed the key and placed by the shifter. While I was filling, out of the blue, it locked itself. Good thing my son was in the car. He un-locked with the remote and said "What the heck?" A few moments later it not only locked itself again but then un-locked itself. Then when I started it the pull key message displayed. Then worked fine the rest of the night. Any suggestion on what is going on with it?!


[Modified by maverickks, 7:30 AM 2/13/2003]

vetterdstr

Did you have the key fob auto lock/unlock in the on position?

vetterdstr :cheers:

maverickks

Yes, it is in the on position. This is the way I had for almost a year.

vetterdstr

If you leave it in the car or stand by the car with it on you, the car will lock and unlock repeatedly. :yesnod: Try turning off the switch next time.

vetterdstr :cheers:

maverickks

OK, I am not quite awake yet. I thought that you were talking about the configuration of the car not the fob. No, the fob was in the off or non-passive position. That was one thing that I thought about when it started. Could my fob be going bad on me and thinking that it is in the automatic position?

vetterdstr

It could be... try using the other fob instead for a while and see how that works.

vetterdstr :chevy

boblackhardtop

My car did the same thing. Had to crawl thru the trunk to get in...Fortunately the trunk was open at the time.
I had to change the configuration on the DIC to the off position for the passive lock/unlock & haven't used it since.

maverickks

I thought that it might have something to do with the passive locking system. I was glad the son decided to stay in the car. I just don't understand the pull key coming on since the key I am using is brand new, unless all the locking and unlocking through something out. I will check the config on the passive system.

DALE C

My 97 will do the same thing from time to time I thought it was the key Fobs, but it will do it with the keys in the house and the car in the garage. The car will lock and unlock for a while. My car is pretty much a race car so I just gave up on it and leave the window down. The pull key sounds like the start of a column lock problem. If you dont already have the bypass call your dealer the recall did not cover the 97s but they will usualy take care of it. I hope you get it figured out my 97 is an early car (#73) and has had tons of electrical problems from the time it was new.
Good luck, Dale

maverickks

Dale,

I guess that I am glad to see I am not the only one to have this problem. I wish there was a fix for it. The CL problem has already happened and GM said that they would not cover it but after I through a hissy fit they took care of it. I installed the CLB shortly after that just to make sure there was no other problems, I thought. Thanks for the insite and best of luck on the racing.

Jeff


[Modified by maverickks, 2:00 PM 2/13/2003]

Bill Dearborn

The pull key message doesn't necessarily mean you have the CLB problem starting. I have gotten this message while sitting at a traffic light waiting for the light to change. I had to pull the key and wait 10 seconds just to get going again.
Bill

maverickks

I am having the same experiance. The message will come up ever so often and once I pull the key then everything will work fine again. It would be nice if GM had a fix for these little quirky things and take care of them since they now that they have a problem with them.

HummelS

Couple of things here:

Spontaneous locking/unlocking could be caused by a faulty BCM (computer). I had a similar problem with my '00 coupe, plus it would throw all kinds of DIC errors, "Pull key..." message, - and the hatch would open by itself, etc. The BCM is vulnerable to water damage from a plugged A/C condensation drain, so check for dampness in the passenger footwell where the BCM lives.

The "Pull key..." message will also occur if you "false start" with the ignition: turning the key twice before the column lock has had time to actuate will throw the message. Pulling the key gives the BCM time to reset everything. It's documented in the owner's manual.

maverickks

Unfortunately, since I live in Kansas I have not had the AC on for several months, but I will pull the kick panel and check to see if there is any moisture around it. I had an e-mail sent to me that stated if my passive fob was not in the full off position it will go to a sleep mode in about 45 - 60 seconds which will lock the doors and then if is shook or moved it will re-activate and unlock the door. The pull the key message has popped up a couple of times and I even picked up a new key thinking that was my problem. The last time I checked I didn't have any codes on the DIC. I guess only time will tell with this issue. I would like to thank everyone that has given suggestion.

Jeff

rrobert22

Okay, what the heck is with this key-fob passive unlock thing? I dont have any switches on my fob? :confused:

C5inWV

My '97 did the same thing when 2 of the tire pressure sensors were bad. Replacing the sensors helped. You may want to reset the computer and all codes, even better, may want to disconnect the battery for a few minutes and then reset all codes. You will have to retrain your tire sensors and key fobs, but this did the trick for me. :leaving:

maverickks

rrobert22,

My fobs have the passive system on them. There is a switch at the bottom that activates it. This allows your car to lock automatically once you are outside a certain perimeter and then it will unlock once you back inside the same perimeter. It allows you not to have to press the lock/unlock buttons on the fob.

6krpm,

It is funny that you mention about the sensors. I just moved the sensors from my stock rims to chrome and it seemed that they were working fine. I took the tires and rims to the shop without the car. I will take your advice and try and retrain the fobs and sensors. Maybe this will work. I drove it tonight after I resynchronized them and didn't have any problems but think I will retrain them all.

Thank you for the tip and I hope that it will work for me also.
:banghead: :lolg:

Red 5

Mav, my 98 did this 6 months ago. I scanned the DIC.. found to be defective left side door controller. It would unlock doors while driving and setting alarm would cause it to go off. About $300 part if I remember. Good Luck!!!

0vetteshop

GM eliminated the passive feature for the 2000 because of alot of faults with the system.The contacts in the fob can become corroded.Try moving the passive switch back and forth to clean the contacts,because your fob may be stuck in the a particular mode.

As far as the "pull key" message,more than likely the ignition cylinder is not detecting a valid key when the cylinder is turned.Try cleaning the resistor pelet on the key with alchohol,or try a different key.Also,the contacts in the cylinder could be worn :yesnod:

By the way,had your son not been in the car,simply shaking the car would have unlocked it ;) Remember,any time the fob is within range,it can unlock or lock your vehicle when in the passive mode...


[Modified by C-5 TECH, 10:45 AM 2/16/2003]

maverickks

Red,

I will check and see about the DIC codes when I get home tonight. I have moved the passive switch back/forth and it seems to be working better now. I haven't had problem that last couple of days.

C-5 Tech,

I did just as you have explained with the back/forth and it seems to be better. I have also cleaned the old resistor and then bought a new key and I am afraid that it may be in the cylinder. Can you clean those in any way or do you have to replace the cylinder? Do you know if you replace the cylinder can you have it re-keyed to the old key? I didn't know about the shake the car thing until some else e-mailed about that issue.

Thank you all for all the great information. Maybe some day I learn all the little quirky things on this little toy.