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C5 Tight Brakes

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Old May 30, 2026 | 07:07 PM
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Default C5 Tight BrakesYesterday when I got home from a drive in our 03 C5 I sensed a "brake burning smell" coming from the car. I pulled the right front wheel to investigate and I could barely turn the spindle by hand. When I lifted the other front wheel it felt the same. I removed the caliper from the right front wheel and was able to retard the pistons. I also lifted the rear and those wheels were dragging, but not to the extent of the front ones.

All of the brake system components are original. I must say I have not been good at performing the recommended brake fluid changes over the years. The car has about 100,000 miles.

I know we have the booster, master cylinder, anti lock brake system and the calipers in the system. Any thoughts?

Thanks.
Larry P


Last edited by runnjump; May 30, 2026 at 08:28 PM. Reason: Added Information
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Old May 31, 2026 | 09:58 AM
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Time for a complete brake job including pads, clips, pins, and flush. When I think of brakes not retracting my mind first goes to corroded clips and corroded or deformed pins. Just get it done, as you said you’ve neglected them for years… time to get on it.
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Old May 31, 2026 | 09:59 AM
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Originally Posted by runnjump
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Default C5 Tight BrakesYesterday when I got home from a drive in our 03 C5 I sensed a "brake burning smell" coming from the car. I pulled the right front wheel to investigate and I could barely turn the spindle by hand. When I lifted the other front wheel it felt the same. I removed the caliper from the right front wheel and was able to retard the pistons. I also lifted the rear and those wheels were dragging, but not to the extent of the front ones.

All of the brake system components are original. I must say I have not been good at performing the recommended brake fluid changes over the years. The car has about 100,000 miles.

I know we have the booster, master cylinder, anti lock brake system and the calipers in the system. Any thoughts?

Thanks.
Larry P
One thing to keep in mind as you inspect your brake components is something I and a friend I was helping have experienced over the years, The rubber brake lines can swell inside with age and bad fluid contamination and not allow the pressurized brake fluid to leave the calipers after the pressure is released from the brake pedal. The brake master cylinder pushes the fluid in at very high pressure, but the calipers can't push it back at all, so the pads stay on the rotors. The rubber lines will look perfectly fine from the outside.

Last edited by eric22; May 31, 2026 at 10:00 AM.
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Old May 31, 2026 | 11:14 AM
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Several possible culprits.
Might be mechanical: corroded/crusty caliper slides, sticky caliper piston, etc.
Or might be hydraulic: anything rubber in the system might be swollen, and not allow fluid to return to the master.
Something might also be keeping the master cyl from releasing fully, but that's a long shot.
If the problem is repeatable, jack the car while the brakes are dragging, and crack a bleeder. If that wheel frees up, it's a hydraulic issue. If not, it's mechanical.
If both wheels on the axle are now free, suspect the master... If it just frees up one wheel at a time, suspect the brake hose, or maybe the ABS block. It's a possibility, although I've never seen it.
Good luck!
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Old May 31, 2026 | 03:26 PM
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Thanks for the quick replys. Since I've neglected the system for many years I do plan to replace all the brake hardware (front and rear), including the rubber brake lines and flush the system.

I did find why the right front brake seemed extremely tight - it was the wheel bearing in the hub. It was very tight, very rough, probably close to shelling out. I plan on replacing both front hubs. I'll see what the back hubs look like when I get back there.

Thanks again for your comments, assistance.

Larry P
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