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Use a 3 jaw puller. Use fingers and place behind gear, screw center screw in until the gear comes off. If I remember correctly you need to start the crank bolt into the crank.
To intall I pressed the new gear into place on the crank and than used the orginal gear against the new gear and bolted them into place seating the new gear with the orginal crank bolt. Remove the orginal one.
Phillip :party:
Phil's got it nailed but I want to add that the roll master set ups that I've installed were both .080 longer than stock, necessitating .080 removal from the harmonic to retain original position.
Measure your stock gear and oil pump drive and compare to the rollmaster. Stock was 1.720 and the rollmasters were 1.800.
Thanks Phil ! 97 C5: I have been advised to machine the shoulders of the ASP underdrive pulley by 3mm to accomodate the shims that are used between the oil pump and the block when installing this dual timing chain.
Is this what you are referring to?
Actually, when I measured mine, the stock and Rollmaster were the same. It really should be of no consequence anyway if you look at the shop manual for installing the pulley. After first torqueing the pulley bolt before the final major torqueing, the manual specification is 0.095"-.175" from the end of the crank to the end of the pulley - an 0.08" tolerance. Mine measured 0.135" so I was right in the middle of the spec. Then we did the final torqueing and the alignment of the pulleys and belts came out perfect. The only machining I did was the shoulder of the ASP pulley (3mm) to clear the spaced-out oil pump.
We did my buddy's the same and it also lined up perfectly. On neither of these pulleys did I take any overall length off. Plus, we measured everything as we installed to assure proper tolerances and alignment. Actually, this is the first I've heard of anyone taking length off the pulley when using the Rollmaster.
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