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Crank pulley question...
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Melting Slicks
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From: Milton, West Virginia
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Crank pulley question...
Ok...I'm used to older chev engines. I'm getting ready to install cam and noticed the crank pulley/balancer is not keyed with the crank. Does the pulley/balancer need to be reinstalled in the same location on the crank? I guess both could be scribed for location, but I'm installing a new underdrive pulley, I noticed it is drilled for weight balance, but I haven't found any information as to locating it to the crank. So does it matter?? Many thanks! Greg
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Joined: Jul 2004
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From: San Antonio Texas
balancer
I'm not sure about the installation location (not sure if your using an aftermarket UP or stock) BUT make sure you use a NEW crank bolt and LOCK-TIGHT when you install. trust me, after my H&C install my harmonic balancer unit came off leaving me stranded! many have sufferd the same on the non keyed crank. Good luck bro
Safety Car
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From: Dallas Tx
Yes, you need to scribe the exact position prior to removal. To reinstall see if you can get a hold of service manual, the procedure must be followed to be sure it won't fly off. It doesn't involve loctite. I put the procedure in the earlier post about the 150,000 mile engine.
Basically you retorque in 4 steps to 240 lb ft with the old bolt until the crank snout is recessed 2 - 4 mm. Then install a new bolt, torque to 37 lb ft in two steps. Then tighten another 140 degrees. The key is the first torqueing with the old bolt to 240 in steps. If the crank snout is recessed more than the spec, the balancer is not fully seated. Repeat retorquing with the old bolt until fully seated. Then you torque to yield the new bolt to the degree spec. Whatever you do, don't just zap it on with an impact. It'll fly right off when you least expect it.
Basically you retorque in 4 steps to 240 lb ft with the old bolt until the crank snout is recessed 2 - 4 mm. Then install a new bolt, torque to 37 lb ft in two steps. Then tighten another 140 degrees. The key is the first torqueing with the old bolt to 240 in steps. If the crank snout is recessed more than the spec, the balancer is not fully seated. Repeat retorquing with the old bolt until fully seated. Then you torque to yield the new bolt to the degree spec. Whatever you do, don't just zap it on with an impact. It'll fly right off when you least expect it.
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From: San Antonio Texas
there has been many posts on this question i would do a search on this. the service guide does not use loctite do to a stock motor. Trust me on this one use loctite especially when mor HP is involved. if i find a link to the other thread i will post.
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From: King George VA
Be very careful with this.
Here is my sad story:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/showthread.php?t=922738
Here is my sad story:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/showthread.php?t=922738
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Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2000
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From: Milton, West Virginia
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Originally Posted by Subdriver
Be very careful with this.
Here is my sad story:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/showthread.php?t=922738
Here is my sad story:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/showthread.php?t=922738
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Dallas Tx
Use a little locktite if you want but one of them most important and often skipped step is measuring the crank snout depth after the old bolt torqueing. If it isn't the right depth, the balancer isn't fully seated and no amount of locktite will keep it on at 6000 rpm. If it is not fully seated repeat retorquing in four steps up to 240 lb ft with the old bolt until it is the right depth. Then retorque with the new bolt. The new bolt is torque to yield so it can only be torqued once. I'll bet some of those that flew off were using a bolt that had been torqued a couple times.
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From: King George VA
Originally Posted by Michrider
The new bolt is torque to yield so it can only be torqued once. I'll bet some of those that flew off were using a bolt that had been torqued a couple times.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2003
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From: Near Jacksonville Fl.
Originally Posted by 3Vettes@Home
Ok...I'm used to older chev engines. I'm getting ready to install cam and noticed the crank pulley/balancer is not keyed with the crank. Does the pulley/balancer need to be reinstalled in the same location on the crank? I guess both could be scribed for location, but I'm installing a new underdrive pulley, I noticed it is drilled for weight balance, but I haven't found any information as to locating it to the crank. So does it matter?? Many thanks! Greg
Mark the crank and balancer before removal and have the old one checked for 0 balance (I know they are all supposed to be but their not).
If it's not 0 balanced have the new one balanced the same way and then key your crank to the balancer.
Next is the best $26.00 you can ever spend, get an ARP crank bolt and useing red loctite torque it to 150 lb ft.
It can't ever come loose because there cannot be any relative movement between the crank and the balancer because of the key, the ARP bolt is reuseable and can be removed easely with an impact wrench.
It may cost a few bucks more and take a little more time but it will= piece of mind.
